X1c won’t print nylon

Bought a brand new .6 nozzle. Went to print some coex gf nylon. Filament wouldn’t even extrude for the initial lines.

I’ve taken my extruder apart multiple times and there’s no jams

My ender3 is more reliable than this damn thing at this point

Could the extruder be slipping on that filament?

Try printing at higher temperature
Try printing slower
Maybe the hardened steel extruder is a solution

I had problems with Nylon as well. I put the Nylon I had in a dryer for 4 or 5 hours, and then it printed better but still not good. I had to put it in the dryer again, and then it printed as it should. I bet it was only out of the package for 2 or 3 days and I had to dry it. Someone told me you don’t know how long it was exposed to air/humidity before it was sealed in the factory packaging. So the lesson I learned is dry it well out of the box. Print with it, and when finished, don’t leave it in the AMS. Put it in a bag and use a vacuum pump and seal it up until next time. This solved nylon issues for me.
The print just looked terrible and made blobs until I dried it out in my dryer at 55 degrees for 5 hours, and I had to do it twice to get it to print right. I even had it get stuck in my extruder and I had to take it apart and get a piece out. Just my two cents so good luck

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Hi and thank you . I don’t understand the problem , but . Every Nylon needs to dry normally before you use 12-24h 65-70degrees . That ist complete normal and nothing new .
It has nothing to do with the printer , AMS and so on .
If you want good results , print it out of the dryer with 65-70 degrees dryer temperature . I print a lot of nylon and it is only the handling . You can print it on every printer with a good extruder and a hardened steel nozzle in a chamber .

can you share what print settings you used for the nylon gf?


You should use Generic PA-CF as a starting point. Glass and Carbon Fiber react mostly the same. Nylon is Polyamide - PA .

Be aware different brands can have radically different properties, all the plastics we print with are blends and the blends are proprietary. So the perfect settings for one will often fail for another. You must Calibrate (usually only once) for each filament if you want good prints.

As mentioned above, all nylons are very hydroscopic (water loving) and some are so bad they can start misprinting in two hours if not in a dry box like the AMS.

A real problem on a 4 hour print, eh? :wink:

Here’s a good read for some basics on printing with nylon:

I have a few Q’s for you -

  1. Do you have an X1C with AMS or a P1P?
  2. Are you using Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer?

And a couple tips -
You might read this PSA (rather long winded, but it’s my style …) I wrote on the subject - PSA **Up your Game** Studio, SoftFever OrcaSlicer, & Arachne

Also - Since you’re new to the forum - You should always post Q’s like this as a new separate post for a couple reasons - it keeps from bringing up a months old post (often marked as ‘solved’) and it will get hundreds of eyeballs on it rather than just a few.

Many ‘regulars’ on the board will only look at new issues since they’ve already seen / replied to the old ones. :wink: :grin:



I agree with everything except suggesting not keeping in AMS and using vacuum bag. Transparent vacuum bags are garbage and very penetrable to moisture, therefore it’s much better to keep in AMS with fresh desiccant than in those. Because of this, if you see Nylon filament supplied in transparent bag, you know it’s wet right away. If it comes in silvery moisture barrier bag, YMMV. Also you can put additional desiccant packs in the gaps in between of AMS feeders. If using bags for storage, you need proper moisture barrier bags like this link and preferably large desiccant pouch or multiple small ones. Old silica gel /clay desiccant can be reused after drying in oven at 120°C for a few hours. Vacuum is not needed at all, it has no use other than minimizing storage size. I personally just roll an open end of the bag making like 5 turns and fix it with foldback clips or clothes peg. I also put humidity indicator cards inside the bags which have proven this works great by keeping humidity below 5% which is a minimum humidity they can indicate.

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This. Very much this. Those “vacuum boxes” being sold are a complete waste of time.

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Just received the X1C last week, currently using Bambu Studio. Thanks for the tips

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Excellent write up! I couldn’t agree more!

But … :grin:

I mildly disagree on the vacuum statement.

Vacuum has been proven to be a viable method of drying filament, avoiding some of the issues that drying by heating has on the polymer chains.

Heat drying filament repeatedly, which you pretty much have to do for Nylon, and a number of others, can start to change the linking of the polymer strands and change the properties of the filament over time.

There are some that argue vacuum drying is the preferred method.

As many subjects like this there’s a thousand people with their “scientific” opinion :rofl: and few real scientists weighing in …! :wink:

But, vacuum drying is a thing. I would say that if someone has the ability to add vacuum storage it would be a preferred way of storing. EDIT: I certainly wouldn’t spend extra money to get it!

On the surface, it makes sense to have less air in contact with the filament during storage, that’s what the bags and sealed containers are doing - stopping airflow, eh?

One wonders what is done in industry. Nylon is a huge part of the plastics industry, how do they handle storage?

That’s great! Have fun!! :grin:

I dont even see a nylon material option in the AMS. Anyone know why there is no nylon filament presets in AMS or BambuStudio?

Because you did not add those filaments in filament selection. In Bambu studio click gear which is on the right of flushing volumes. Or you ignore PA which is nylon.

Put any Nylon with 2 onz of Rice on vacuum bags… best “SCIENTIFIC” solution that works.