My X2D already arrived; I’m surprised they have sent it so quickly.
As usual, it is an awesome printer—easy to set up—but make sure you install the bottom of the rear fan properly. It is easy not to snap it in properly, and you will have a gap where air can escape without being filtered.
Quality is the best out of all my printers, better than H2C, and this could be due to both-sides cooling. 1.5 mm belts are amazing, and there are literally no VFAs.
I’m super happy they finally unlocked cooling/heating options, where you can vent even when heating, which is impossible without some code mods on H2C.
The size of the X2D makes it perfect; it requires way less space than the H2C. I think Bambu knocked it out of the park with this printer.
Interesting feature – I’m curious, what’s the use case for venting while heating the chamber? Personally, when I have the heater on I want to retain the heat, not lose it. Maybe it’s more relevant in warmer climates, but up here in northern Europe it’s cold even in summer, so I’m not sure I’d get much out of that particular feature.
That said, Bambu Lab has completely lost my trust and I’m in the process of phasing out all my Bambu equipment. The printers I have will run until they don’t, and after that it’ll be a different brand.
It’s an uneven layer that starts about where the railing does, which I’ve seen on P2S benchies including mine. It is not part of the 3D and should not be there. Here the filament is matte and helps hide imperfections; but it doesn’t seem to be there..
Venting at 10–20% is just enough to eliminate ABS smell from any other holes, creating slight negative pressure. My tests show you can have the exhaust fan at 70% and the heater on H2C will still heat up to 65°C at room temperature.
My printer is 50 cm from my desk, and I can print ABS/ASA without any smell—it all gets vented out. The moment I turn off the vent and allow the printer to filter air, I can smell the ABS, probably escaping via the poop chute, etc.
What are you planning to replace Bambu Lab printers with? In Canada, nothing on the market comes close, and nothing would make financial sense.
I will print with the aux nozzle as well, but the main nozzle gave me one of the cleanest—if not the cleanest—benchies I have ever printed. I didn’t even dry my PLA. I’m really impressed, and when it comes to benchies, it is hard to impress me. I would love to see P2S benchy.
It’s pretty much on all printers. Can be made to look less prominent depending on lighting. Just the way the transition from sparse to solid infill close to perimeters behaves.
I apparently can’t post links in this forum but if you search “benchy hull line” you’ll get a great explanation of it.
This is the preset benchy of my P2S, printed in 15 minutes (does that include 7 mins of preparation? Can’t remember.) BBL basic PLA.
The hull line is very much there. While it might be difficult to avoid; I’ve seen better results, taking in account filament shine and light angle.
Edit: whether it’s impossible to avoid: I’m sure it’s tricky to prepare filament pressure for every case, but it’s what slicers do, this is just a tougher nut than others. Again, I’ve seen better, including these X2D benchys. (Which would be good to have in non flattering light, like mine)
X1C and H2D Full combo Laser 40W with 4 AMS2 Pro and 4 AMS HT. One AMS2 Pro is broken and I have replaced all spare parts they sent and it still don’t work anymore. Jams off the filament etc, in a test I switched the left inlet to the right inlet but the behaviour is still the same so it’s not that part that is broken.
Honestly, other than some really irritating stuff about the company, PRUSA is a brand that while a bit behind on technology with a slower development curve recently, I can see why people like them. They still support a printer they made a decade ago, and you can buy a kit to upgrade it to one if their latest printers. If you want support for the long term, they’re not a bad partner to have.
But, their fans (supporters) are a bit hard to deal with.
They lost my trust when I have replaced almost every part on my H2D more than once. How many times have you replaced the XY-axis on your printer? How many times have you replaced the hotend cooling fan? The latter I have now replaced more than 6 times. The printer doesn’t cope well with high heat printing during longer periods.
For technical prints it will be replaced with a Fibreseeker 3, for the more general use I’m not sure at the moment but for sure not Bambu Lab
Now, I do apreciate Prusa for ideological / political reasons, but they support a 10 year old printer because that’s what they sell to this day.. Someone in the family has a new MK4S and while it prints ok, it’s kinda slow and feels like a trip down memory lane. As for upgrading it to a Core-XY, it costs the same as a BBL Core-XY and it will still be restricted to a smaller build size and old school handling..
For people who have enough money to support European production, and are ok with a product that could be considered inferior (Slower, smaller), it’s great. I support anyone who does that. Good for Prusa. But I would not do that myself.
As for long term durability: I have a rock solid Wanhao D6, a tank, it works like on day one. But it’s such a hassle to deal with compared to modern QOL improvements that I can’t even manage to sell it cheap. So not much use lasting forever if it gets so outdated people don’t want it anymore..
You’re new to the forum (apparently), so you might not be aware of the many reasons for which Bambu has lost the trust of many of its long-term users, though, if you’llspend a bit more time searching through the various posts on this forum, you’ll most likely discover several of them. Eventually, you may find yourself confronted with similar situations like the ones described by those users, and most definitely you’ll understand the “why”.
I just got the Core ONE L. It’s been a pretty flawless user experience and is quite speedy and accurate. It made good enough prints out of the box for the parts to impress hardened mechanical engineers, and did them as quickly as my H2C could do them - but to be honest, the H2C would have made a slightly nicer part.
Prusa has been forced to bring their technology more current because the landscape demands it. There is a huge difference between the MK3 before Bambu, and the MK4S after.
