Just like most of the Bambu line-up, managing the aux fans are an absolute pain and cause so many issues.
With the X2D having 2 aux fans that blow directly onto the plate, it seems even more important to be able to manage them properly. They cause adhesion issues and there seems to be no way to turn them off or down.
This is where this setting should be managed, however with these exact settings, both aux fans adjust up and down at their own will. A print happening right now has both fans at 80% which is extremely noisy and there’s a high risk of the print warping on either side.
Is there a reliable way to manage this properly (or even completely disable) on the X2D? I am currently printing deflectors for both sides, but it’s just so loud and I would prefer a software solution.
If Bambu can give a good reason for the following default setting for PETG filament (Bambu’s profile), I’ll drop the topic and accept that it is a valid setting.
Everyone knows how powerful the aux are or can be…. so please explain to me what part of PETG printing requires they BOTH blast cool outside air right at the plate and part at 100% for pretty much 100% of the print when chamber temp itself is in the 30s???
What’s worst is no one knows how to set these fan profiles because they seem to ignore whatever you set in Filament profile under Cooling-Aux Fan settings as OP mentions and is reason for this unanswered post. Literally no one knows? Including Bambu Staff?
These are from the screen or the Device window AFTER the print starts and you can modify it while it’s printing. Click on “Fan” But you you’d have to do that every time you start a print (or remember).
They should just give us control over how the fans work. Just leave the default to whatever their auto algorithm is but also give us right/left/exhaust controls we can set in profile before we slice and send to printer. They give the control (like your screenshot) but it doesn’t really do what you set.
Just adding my experience here as well in case anyone else comes across this. Modifying the filament presets doesn’t seem to actually do anything as the printer will adjust fan speeds constantly to whatever it wants. Manually adjusting fan speeds while the print is running only modifies the fan speed until the next filament switch…(so if your printing something with more than 1 filament it’s likely only going to keep your manual override for a single layer. I’m currently constantly dealing with warping prints from trying to print PTCG at 90-100% fan speeds. Someone at Bambu needs to respond to this.
Also frustrated by this, just chiming in with my +1. When printing flat objects in PLA with a 0.2mm nozzle, I don’t need the AUX fans running at all and would rather disable or turn them down to like 20% to minimize noise. Filament profile settings for this are not obeyed at all!
I slipped up on this issue this evening. I haven’t been paying attention apparently but I found the fans running at 80% for PLA and was puzzled. I felt more puzzled when I couldn’t find a setting to turn them off in the filament profile. I hope there’s a solution soon.
While I agree with this being incredibly dumb, did any of you try these printed aux fan add-ons, which redirect their airflow? Genuinely curious, as I don’t want to waste material just to see it doesn’t help at all.
Changing the values manually in the G-Code helped for a while, but a print yesterday I was battling the fans again for whatever reason. I do appreciate they can keep the chamber cool for PLA with the door closed, but having them directed right at the build plate is stupid, I can see with the lines on the print where I battled with the fans.
This has been an issue sincce the X1C, I don’t know why Bambu aparently is getting different results with the AUX fans in their lab while every actual user just has problems with the fans. I think I will try and print one of those redirecting attachments. I want the cooling, but I don’t want the fans interfering with my prints
Since my comment I have also printed some upward diffusers in PETG and that is probably the best solution to this problem. Works fine, the cold air gets directed up to the toolhead and can cool the chamber that way without blowing on the prints