I’ve been experiencing a problem on my Xc1 carbon for weeks now. Although the first layer and the adhesion to the plate are perfect, the printer continues to hit the internal parts of the latter when filling even as low as 1/2%. I tried lowering the speed to 120mm/s for the filling and 60 for the walls (a real snail) but it continues to hit the walls of the filling making a lot of noise and putting the print at risk. I have already tried using the gyroid filling but nothing changes (as you can see in the photo), I only print pla bambu at a height of 0.12mm per layer and the rest is all left with the factory settings . Does anyone have any solutions before risking breaking the printer?? thanks for your patience
Ensure that your slicer settings are correctly configured for your printer and filament. Pay attention to parameters such as nozzle diameter, layer height, infill density, and print speed. Experimenting with different settings, including reducing infill density or increasing layer height, may help alleviate the issue.
thanks for the reply, but as I was saying I ended up printing the fill at 100mm/s which is decidedly slow compared to the factory settings. The nozzle diameter is 0.4 as per factory settings and I print the pieces with very low fills with gyroid (which should already help) but nothing continues to do so.
Does it also do this with denser infill? The reason I ask is your infill likes are very long and thin at 1 or 2% and it looks as though they are breaking off, possibly because the infill is printing at much higher speeds compare to the walls, and they haven’t adhered to the previous laid infill because it’s only 1 line thick and lays down only half over the top of the previous layer. I’d do a test at 10 or 15% and see if you experience the same.
1 Like
everything is all good, i only use gyroid and it typically happens when infill speeds are high. you can raise the Z hop to 0.45 -.47 and problem solved.
1 Like
I might be wrong but the image seems to show a spot with rather weak layer adhesion - the stringy bit in the center.
If that is bad layer adhesion you might suffer from what I like to call ’ unwanted vertical expansion’.
I had that a lot in the early years when trying to print in ABS and Nylon on a series one Prusa - the ones built from threaded rods LOL
No matter what you try, unless you fully change the majority of the slicing settings, the infill always struggles to stay in place.
(Please use the DEFAULT print profile and filament profile for this:)
You can check this with s small testcube and a 100% infill - it should come out perfect and strong.
Now try the same in vase mode…
Measure the wall thickness.
If it differs from the set value in the slicer adjust the flow rate accordingly so a vase mode object comes out with the EXACT wall thickness.
Once that is confirmed check if you are able to pull the vase mode model apart.
If the spiral lets go it means you need to adjust the print temp.
You should not be able to separate the spiral of a vase mode printed model.
In case you had to adjust the temp confirm the wall thickness again as this can change with different printing temps.
Now for the fun part - checking the vertical expansion or general mismatch of what comes out…
The people in this forum seem to either have forgotten or to not know how 3D printing still works for the majority of people out there…
SLOW, VERY SLOW…
Even for PLA many people are already celebrating if their machine manages to produce things at an average speed of 60mm per second…
With outer layers and such things often coming to a crawl…
A slicer has setting to adjust the X and Y dimensional accuracy of the model.
But most people seem to ignore this option and instead adjust a complicated filament through the flow rate or by changing the size of the model slightly.
With CORRECT setting filaments not prone to shrinking or expanding won’t need an adjustment of these correction values.
The vertical adjustment however CAN BE a factor to consider, especially for tall models.
Print a small but tall tower with little infill.
Lets say 10cm tall.
Measure and confirm that is comes out at exactly 100mm.
If NOT than it is time to adjust the vertical or z-height compensation.
Let’s assume after all the above a test print still struggles and that this struggle is NOT an issue for the lower parts of the model.
Before you then jump to adjusting the z- compensation ask yourself if it actually IS the Z height where the nozzle that is incorrect OR if it could be the model expanding.
I only encountered badly growing models with bad or low quality filaments.
Especially the ones either too moist or TOO DRY.
Since your problem does not seem to be related or limited to just one spool I have to assume that the filament settings are not properly calibrated.
In case you use Bambu rolls here :
You might be surprised how far off their default parameters can be from the vaulues after a manual calibration…
So far I have not found a single roll of their filaments to perform properly at anything below the default 0.2mm and even there the mismatch is often visible right way with bad top layers or blobs forming on sharp corners of a model.
I gave up on the automatic options and chipped rolls and calibrate every new type and color manually to create a matching profile.
I am sorry I could help you, but I see that you already got a lot of responses, there surely will be a right answer.
This topic was automatically closed 2 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.