Hi,
I have a problem with the HF hotends on the H2D. The Z-offset does not seem to be correct here, the nozzles are much too low.
You can also hear the nozzle scraping lightly over the printing plate directly on the printer. And you can also see very clearly on the 1st layer how the nozzle ploughs through the filament.
Firmware and Bambu Studio are up to date. The nozzles are not clogged, the max. volumetric speed test ran without any problems. The HF hotends are also set on the printer and in the slicer (it recognises them automatically)
If I change back to the 0.4mm standard hotends, everything is perfect, with completely the same settings.
Put in the HF hotends and again it scratches over the printing plate and the print image is catastrophically bad. Even worse on the left than on the right.
If I insert the textured PEI and select Smooth PEI, it only improves slightly, but remains unacceptable.
Does anyone have any idea why this is and how to fix it?
The complete calibration? What should motor noise cancelling and vibration compensation have to do with the Z-offset of the HF hotends?
I can easily switch between 0.2mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm hotends without calibration, no quality problems.
Why should you have to completely recalibrate the printer if you change from 0.4mm standard to 0.4mm HF hotend?
Or what do you mean with complete recalibration?
It’s just a part of the process. The nozzles being a slightly different weight can totally affect the way the machine compensates noise and vibration.
It’s a rule of thumb that anytime you perform any maintenance on the machine or swap any parts that you should redo all the initial machine calibrations.
Also, double check you have them in place properly and the clasps are closed properly. I’ve seen a few photos already where people had the clasps closed wrong. Not saying you did it wrong, but it’s worth a Quick Look to verify.
Try it out, it might help. If not, then we can check that one off the diagnostic list. Always try the easiest ones first.
ok, there’s no harm in trying.
Incidentally, the hotends are sitting correctly, I always check that. In theory, you can tell that something is wrong even if the clamps don’t close.
I’ll run a print for the next few hours, then I’ll run the calibration and get back to you after another attempt.
Wenn etwas die Platte berührt,kalibriert man neu, oder? Ist doch logisch. Die Dinger sind vermutlich einen Mü länger und vor allem schwerer. Sowas gehört neu kalibriert und fertig.
I’v had a strange issue pop up from time to time where (probably 3 times now) it squishes the nozzle right onto the plate and looks similar to this. Resending the print fixes the issue every time. Twice it has happened using the PA calibration manually from the calibration menu and once when sending an ASA print.
Mind you, I have bed leveling set to “on” for every print. Yes, the printer is calibrated. I cant say if it was actually touching the bed during printing as there are no witness marks, but getting the filament off the bed was a nightmare (I caught it each time on the first layer thankfully).
I also have the HF nozzles so it could be attributed to that, but I would be surprised if the HF and non-HF were different lengths (considering the nozzle blocker would be useless then)
I do genuinely think there is a bug somewhere that has to do with z-offset within the firmware (since the gcode from the slicer wouldn’t be the issue).
I change my nozzles out all the time and do not calibrate after. I only calibrate after firmware updates. I do not have any z-offset issues on first layers at all. My first layers are flawless and my joints are perfect. The printer does a bed level for each nozzle at the start of a print and a basic nozzle offset at the start of every multi-color print. It also does a basic vibration compensation so I don’t see a need to do 30min to an hour of calibrations after swapping a nozzle.
My only issue now is banding at geometry changes(not nozzle changes on multi color prints) which I’m positive is related to settings or slicer. I’m printing some test files right now as I’ve seen some positive results on smaller prints. I have a bigger part printing now to see if my banding looks better.
EDIT: I should note after using the vision encoder my top and bottom layers almost look like I had ironing on. Which I’m assuming helps with nozzle offset as well if the machine’s motion is accurate.
After the complete calibration (including the high-temperature bed leveling) it does indeed look a bit better than before, but it’s still not at the level of the standard hotends.
However, it is not yet satisfactory for a 2000 euro device with these hotends.
I’ll let him finish the print now and then take a look at the end result.
Vision encoder only affects x/y as it is just automatic skew compensation. For it to be effective in Z, it would need to travel the whole Z distance (which it doesn’t) to account for different height anomalies (bent screw rod for instance).
Printing is finished, quality is okay, nothing more. Much better with a standard hotend.
Start the same print again and the first layer is worse again. Not as terrible as at the beginning, but worse than the previous print.
