I notice the default speeds for PLA for the 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzles are the same and about half that of the 0.4mm settings. Have they been optimized for the peak flow capability of the extruder or is there room to speed them up? Would be nice to get more than a 10% improvement in print time with the 0.8mm nozzle and the fact that they’re the same makes me think they might be ‘best guesses?’
Thanks,
Alex
Yes, I noticed that too. I had some large models to print that did not require really high resolution so I ordered the 0.8 mm nozzle. The print time did not drop significantly. You’re in a situation where you might as well print with the 0.4 mm nozzle because there is little benefit to using the larger diameter.
I’m not sure what’s going on but maybe the profiles that come with the printer or not calibrated properly for the 0.8 mm nozzle. I’d like some help on this of the support team is reading this. Any suggestions or appreciated.
Same here. I only use my 0.6mm Nozzle for material that needs it like Wood Filament.
I have tried prints that took longer and used more material with the 0.6mm nozzle…
If you want to print sturdy things in vase-mode, a bigger nozzle still has advantages, for everything else the 0.4mm Nozzle is the way to go in my perspective.
Yes, you can print zipping fast with a .8 nozzle. There is a workaround, and its reliable.
The only draw back is the layer adhesion. Slow printing speeds will probably always give better layer adhesion (among other things)
Printing with the bigger nozzle has worked for me when I’m making proto types and just want a quick a print as I can get.
If your goal is to print as fast as possible, and trade the decrease in layer adhesion for the faster speed, then you can do that by making and saving a new user preset
I would describe it like other nozzle sizes didn’t got the love for optimization like the 0.4 (and also with the 0.4 settings there is room for improvement if you tinker with the values).
As I see from the screenshot from arnce, first and most important IMHO is to dial in the filament used. The ‘Generic PLA’ has very conservative values. I’m not 100% sure if they are there that Bambu’s filament looks better or to be on the save sit that nothing can go south.
So, I suggest, first dial in printing temp (temp tower) and volumetric flow (this one is depending on the filament used one of the most limiting factor). When you are there it doesn’t hurt to evaluate the extrusion multiplier as well as the K-value 
Once the volumetric flow is found, have a look on the sliced model? If you are always below that value it could be that the model is small that it is slowed down for the cool-down phase, otherwise the speed values of the printing preset can be modified. It may take some time to dail in values were details are still given but the speed is also acceptable.
Have fun tinkering
^^^THIS^^^
Use the SoftFever (Orca Slicer?) fork of Bambu Studio on GitHub. It has a calibration option on the top menu bar that will greatly assist in dialing in nozzle size for flow, PA, speed… Another thread in here about the 8mm nozzle. IIRC someone was able to increase the flow rate (mm3) and speed and cut the print time 30% or 40%.
Thank you very much. I appreciate it. I will have a look at this. I guess I could just turn up the temperature to make up for the speed and praying for more layer adhesion
you can crank the Max flow mm/3 its quite conversative
You would be better off as Mr.Exocomp stated by increasing the flow mm/3 and speed rather than temps.
Using a calibration would be best but a WAG would be 50% more than the .4mm nozzle to start and see how it does.
I have yet to do mine so I can not give any baselines to start. Logic says the X1C and P1P should be able to do the same speeds on all nozzles, just need to get enough filament through the nozzle on the larger sizes to keep up. An increase in temp may be needed.
Thanks for this. What’s a WAG?
Wild A$$ Guess
I second the suggestion to use OrcaSlicer from SoftFever. If you want to go faster you need it.
If you’re not using I wrote a long a$$ PSA (Public Service Announcement, not as fun a WAG) about it and BL Studio as well as Arachne, another commonly misunderstood item:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/psa-up-your-game-studio-softfever-orcaslicer-arachne
OrcaSlicer has several Calibrations that will let you max out and fine tune your printer for a .8 nozzle. He put them in proper order on the Calibrations tab at top. Don’t forget to look at his Wiki which explains how to use them, with pictures, it’s in my post.
I usually run a .6 and found after calibrations tests that I could run the Max Volumetric Flow almost three times the default value for PC (polycarbonate) and it tuned other settings for beautiful smooth surfaces as well.
Don’t forget the rule of speed: If you increase speed you must step up the nozzle temp too to help melt the plastic faster and get good layer adhesion. Which means you also must up the fans to cool it for each layer. This stuff gets complex quick! 
That can all be saved as a Filament Profile for future one click access. I name it like this:
Polylite PC Red .6 with the nozzle size so I remember which profile is which.
One other thing to consider. If you really have a need for speed, look into replacing your nozzle with a high flow version called CHT. There’s a long discussion with links here:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/first-benchy-printed-with-bambu-lab-x1-cht-nozzle
Cheers!
I recently switched over to a 0.8 nozzle and doubled the mm3 rate, and just added 10 degrees to the temp and a job went from 3hrs to 2hrs.
The main problem people have is when they say a 0.8 nozzle is not speeding up the print or even taking longer is usually that they do not adjust the wall count and infill, so print the same model with double as thick walls.
But volumetric flow will limit the possible speed of a 0.8 nozzle quite a bit, and if you really want to push, get one of those aftermarket CHT clone nozzles for high flow. Currently they aren’t available in the right height in a hardened version though, but I guess its just a matter of time till that changes. Gives bout a 35-40% in max flow increase.
User instructions are calling for cutting off 1.2mm(?) of the hot end tube going into the heat sink to get the correct nozzle height.
Making a clean cut on that tube and de-burring it however for most people is outside their skill set.
For larger models I am already hitting the default volumetric flow limits with the 0.4mm nozzle, I doubt going to 0.8 makes much sense with the default hotend, 0.6 makes more sense but only for certain prints.
I guess it depends mostly on what you are printing. If I were to print large parts with the same filament I would calibrate it for flow and temperature with a 0.6mm nozzle and increase inner wall and infill width to match what the hotend is capable of. I tried just bumping temperature and flow and for most of my filaments it didn’t work too well as the finish of the print showed the different flow/temperature difference too much (different matt/shine in places).
There are already nozzles available with the correct length. Just no hardened ones, just brass. Give the aftermarket a few weeks of time and it will find also fitting nozzles as hardened steel.
Yeah, those AliExpress manufacturers are really tuned into the 3D market, and some make incredibly accurate parts often pushing the technology forward faster than the mainstream companies!
Some are real masters at filling a hole a mainstream company missed, or repairing an issue with a particular machine before the makers can.
IIRR they had PEI sheets out before BL did.
And not to forget that often these companies are the ones making parts for the actual manufacturer! The non-compete clauses in Chinese law must have some real holes in them from what I’ve seen.
I am not even sure any such law exists there
I think it is a “Must Compete” clause.
