Noticed today that I have blown past 1000hrs. I know the H2D is not ‘new’ to many people, but I’m surprised I’ve hit this already. Thats an average of 8.5hrs per day printing!!!
Its a steep learning curve, patience is important.
You will need to fix the printer. Even though its a highly engineered machine, filament doesn’t always play nice. My issues have all been human error/learning mistakes, or filament breaking/clogging where it shouldn’t. Apart from one BL software update that broke Bambu Studio for me.
Fixing the printer ‘does’ get easier. I can now strip the toolhead and reassemble it without any instructions quite quickly and I’m starting to know where to look for issues.
I have mixed feelings about Bambu Support. They are very nice and genuinely try to help. But ultimately you need experience and only time can teach that. I recommend getting a subscription to Chat GPT or Claude. It has saved me untold hours diagnosing issues.
BIGGEST LESSON: Pay attention to switching from Low > High temperature filament for prints. Even if you are only going to print high-temp filament on one nozzle, you need to purge both nozzles of low-temp filament before printing, otherwise your risking a world of hurt when the high-temp scenario soaks into the low temp filament. I made this mistake more than once because if you are using low temp filament for weeks, its easy to forget to purge both nozzles before printing a high temp one.
Related to the above. If the printer tells you its sick, dont just keep pressing ‘Fixed Continue’ over and over again in the hope it clears itself. Hint, it wont! (It was worth a try ).
Make sure you switch nozzles on the LCD screen before removing the sock. I had to replace an ooze blocker by not doing this. This is not a ‘tough’ machine. Its finely tuned and you need to be intentional and careful in your actions.
Budget for a few different bed plates. I researched online and I have a Bambu Textured Plate, Bambu Smooth Plate, Forstbite Plate, Glacier Plate. I use all of them and I haven’t suffered from any of the issues people seem to have trying to use one plate for everything.
Most of my ambiguous extruder faults are due to the part below. The filament breaks and gets stuck inside it. This is now my first check anytime I get one of those annoying extruder errors that dont actually tell you where the problem is.
The Bambu store is always out of stock for the filament I need. It doesn’t matter which one it is. I need black TPU, they only have red TPU. I need white PETG, there is no white PETG. But guess what, lots of other filament manufacturers are great (And some are not)!
Expect to spend most of your time doing 3 things:
Waiting (I need a 2nd Printer and another Dryer but wifey is proving challenging to convince!)
Learning 3D Modelling
Fiddling - Swapping filaments. Scraping the bed. Cleaning the bed. Fixing toolhead issues (Again, usually user error/learning). Changing nozzles. Cleaning nozzles. Cleaning around the printer. Cleaning inside the printer. etc. etc. etc.
Thank you so much for sharing your experiences with us. I used the X1C for about 2.5 years and printed countless times with filaments like ASA, ABS, PLA, PETG, and TPU, and only experienced nozzle clogging 2-3 times. Then, on February 6th, 2026, I bought the H2C and so far I’ve been experiencing filament clogging before every print (more than 10 times). I think this might be an issue that needs to be addressed with these H2 series printers.
Ein sehr schön geschriebener, lehrreicher und interessanter Beitrag. Ich kann alles bestätigen. So etwas hätte ich vor 3 Jahren lesen müssen, da wäre mir viel Ärger bzw. Frust erspart geblieben! Anderseits ist es sehr lehrreich, wenn man sich selbst über die Jahre durchkämpfen muß und das geht sicher für mich noch so weiter. Ein weiterer Fakt ist, um so komplexer die Drucker (H2D/H2C…) werden, desto mehr muss man sich mit ihnen beschäftigen, denn die Wartung, Reparatur oder ein Upgrade kann man in der Regel nur selbst ausführen.
For no:13 (burning fingers) I always use a cloth to handle nozzles now because I know I’ll just end up burning my fingers again if I don’t commit to using one 100% of the time for nozzle swaps etc.
That being said, I have never had to manually calibrate, but I stick to known working filaments, and I have to turn up the heat bed an extra +5 due to how unevenly it heats.
edit Also never burned self changing a nozzle. I am not really sure how it’s possible to do that since you can see the temperature on the screen.
Hey thanks for the reminder of low temp/high temp. Im lucky in that I use both nozzles and support filament frequently, but never really thought about it.
I’m over 1000 hours in since December 26th, and still have a long list of things I’m printing that somehow keeps getting preempted by the wife and kids.
wait but I think the printer does rise the nozzle temp automatically if it can’t extrude.
I mean, loading pla after asa cf, It wouldn’t extrude at pla temp, so it automatically rises the temp to 240, then 270 until it extrudes, then lowers it again. I mean this is what I had see. Without a single click of the printhead’s feeder. I love this printhead.
This was a good set of points you made here. I wanted to add a few things I learned as well. My favourite tool at the moment is a plastic scraper I got recently, the ones on amazon with the blue handle and orange blades. It stays sharper for so much longer than printed ones. And a top tip is to wait for your prints to cool down (30 mins or more). They pop straight off and you don’t risk touching the plate with your oily fingers to bend the plate. Means you don’t have to wash it as often.
But why wait, if you’re printing ABS, the printer cools down. Just remove the plate and close the printer again. Ventilate the plate a bit to cool it down, blade to remove the brims (i use it without handle, to have a sharper angle), and whatever doesn’t pop off on its own. And you continue printing ABS without any preheating
true. I wait because sometimes if you cool the print too quickly by pulling it out, it warps the bottom and it won’t be flat anymore. Then I have a bowl that rocks around on a table. Only happened a couple times.
For #5. If you get a clog in the idlers don’t try to dig it out using sharp tools. Use a heat gun carefully and the stuck filament will come out like a noodle. I learned about #5 the hard way myself and the printer actually warned me. Of course I ignored the warning.
My issues has been loading high-temp filament ‘after’ pla, but forgetting to purge the PLA. Goes all gloopy/burned in the nozzle. The other way around I haven’t had any issue.
To add to the Low → High temp lore; I was once trying to rapidly cool the chamber to print with a lower temp filament with a fan on the floor blowing up into the chamber. I went about my business doing other things. I can’t remember if it was the next print or the first print that needed the right nozzle after but what happened was my left hot end wouldn’t move up when trying to switch to the right. After much faffing about and disassembly I eventually noticed that a bit of filament that had been oozing from the nozzle had been blown around the back side of the left nozzle and adhered to one of the flat bits that the nozzle moves alongside, blocking the movement. Easy fix once I knew what the problem was, but took a long time to get there.
In another thread @Cleavitt explained number 5 much clearer than I did.
“BTW, this usually happens when a low temp filament is left loaded in one side of the print head while the other nozzle is printing a high temp filament. This can cause the low temp filament to get hot enough to deform/bulge and no longer fit through the rest of the print head path or nozzle throat. Avoid by unloading any low temp filament from the inactive side before starting a high temp print (ABS for example).”
Slicer does warn you about this and pretends a user click to proceed like that. Impossible to miss it. Yes printing hot filaments (hot chamber) with something like PLA permanently loaded in the other nozzle is just deserved like a skier removing slope’s blockades before falling into a crevasse
ah I get your point now. Just printing some abs for the first time (pretty late to the party). Didn’t realise how long it took to heat up the chamber. Might have to grab another plate or 2 so I can print one after the other.
).
(I need a 2nd Printer and another Dryer but wifey is proving challenging to convince!)
