Upgraded from a P1S to an X1C and I have been having print quality issues since the day I opened both. After wasting 9 months and countless rolls of filament I gave up and sold my P1S. I thought the more expensive model would at least work as advertised but I was once again sent a printer that already has mechanical problems with less than 2 weeks on it. I put in a ticket with bambu and I am being told the micro lidar senor is broken and needs to be replaced. I’ve only tried to calibrated 2 filaments and it cant even give me results with the green test filament. Extremely disappointed and will now go to a better company that has printers that work. Not only has the printer not worked correctly I now have to wait even more time to “hopefully” fix it. The whole reason I bought an x1c was to utilize the lidar calibration as bambus are really confusing. I have tried to calibrate manually and this printer still gives undesirable results. Don’t let the $1,449 price tag sway you into thinking that you can get better results versus the $200 ender machine that I had absolutely 0 issues with. Does anyone have any input on I should even bother trying to replace something brand new? Im glad I dont run a business as bambu would have my shop closed immediately.
These printers are definitely not for anything you find yourself needing utmost accuracy in that’s for sure. Surface finishes unless face down will be garbage no matter what that’s just FDM. You might be able to achieve an outstanding finish a few times but repeatability is not guaranteed.
Honestly I as well was bought into the LiDaR advertising. But soon realized it’s not anything it cracked up to be. Even the claim of 7microns apparently still allows a 10% jitter in calibrations according to BL’s and they’re working on it. It can’t calibrate reflective filament which means you’re restricted to solid mono colors or dark multicolors like I’ve tried but still I’ve yet to ever use those results and always have to fine tune them.
The main feature really is the active extrusion calibration. Stick with the P1 series or A1 series and you’ll find better results. Mainly just the A1 Mini honestly which I find has been faster in multicolor, better in quality, and cheaper with more fail safes than the X1C…
Buy yourself a raspberry pi, get octoeverywhere, get a webcam and use a better AI to detect what the 30fps camera on the X1C can’t… I’m still astonished how I can air print and run a full print with a glob built up on the nozzle which AI watches that without any detection yet the A1 series at a significant reduced price has those features of detection…
Hardly DOA.
Some expectations sadly go into the realm of dreaming, seriously I think you are not going to be happy considering how much you battled with the P1. Test prints are just that, and honestly don’t translate well into printing tangible models. Getting calibrations right is not a guarantee of perfection by a long shot, the settings that go into an individual print is where its at.
Can you show some real world models where this isn’t coming up to scratch?
I must concur. with @GenericUser observation. @95Prints3D do you have an example of what your expectation is? From what I see in the photo, these are expected results. After all, this is only 3D printing, not injection molding.
A general search any where showing the quality of the same brand or printer is a real world model. Ive seen the quality these printers can achieve and in a huge community that has better results. Ive had tons of help following any general help and none to help the cause. I already had a p1s and sold it because it printed like garbage. Looking for the tangable “prints out of box” or “just hit print”. Theres tons of pages, discords, paterons proving accruate results that im searching for so i cant show you any of my own since its issue after issue. The general public as ive see over the last year has expressed it it a waste of time to calibrate to a specific model, i can spend hours perfecting a single model but that wastes time, filament and printing but once i print something else I have to waste more time calibrating to another model? Doesnt seem logical.
With that being said heres a real world example straight from the wiki page. Looks pretty good to me… none of my squares are even close to what these look like following their guide.
Its doa as bambu ran my logs and is telling me my lidar is defective and needs replacement… sounds doa to me. $1400 on something that didnt even last 2 weeks 
Don’t let the $1,449 price tag sway you into thinking that you can get better results versus the $200 ender machine that I had absolutely 0 issues with.
It’ll be better if you slow it down to your ender speeds, and if it’s pla, keep the door open, maybe. I had an ender 3, It can’t do much of what my p1s can do., but if you are only printing pla, then an enclosure can be a handicap.
Every time I think its the machine I find an error I made in the file, or set up, or one of the many other things it could be. Im printing very small parts for my business with an X1C and have had very positive results. So much so that I just bought an X1E. One thing I would ask, is if you’ve done the firmware updates and calibration? I noticed a lot of improvements after that update.
Ahh so you spent $1400 to print squares? I meant something YOU want to print, really nothing wrong with squares if thats your thing. BTW a faulty LIDAR still doesn’t qualify a DOA.
I remember my first Ender printed like carp, from the box it wasn’t set up and it took a while before I could produce reliable results, I still don’t expect miracles from it. My Bambu’s have been a much better experience but mostly because I’ve got prior knowledge, my expectations have been met and in some areas my prints have improved also. There really is a learning curve to any 3d printer, thats the nature of the product, some people get their expectations met, some search for the elusive perfect flat bed, some won’t click and battle constantly blaming their tools.
Not everyone can produce picture perfect models, even with a perfect running and set up printer. Just like any hobby you gain that hands-on and results may vary greatly. I don’t have perfect results every time, some things get flung in the bin still hot off the plate. Those that pass onto the shelf or into practical use still have flaws, but so does everything in nature.
Calling your printer doa because the lidar dosen’t work is an overreaction at best, based on your reaction I’m going to take it you had some fault in the issues with p1 you had aswell, your claims of zero issues with an ender 3 is also nonsense…
You’re telling me you never had any issues calibrating your ender 3 and it just ran out of the box perfect? 
Hear me out… don’t try to calibrate filament. It’s 99% of the time a waste of time. If you check the box for enable pressure advance, the lidar data is now ignored. So take a step back. Uncheck that box, set it back to the default .98 and use generic pla for everything but bambu filament. Run the outer perimeter at 50 and the top layer at 50. 3 perimeter/10 gyroid, and 60/220 is a good default for most items. Can almost guarantee you’re going on about your own user error.
Use Orca Slicer with built-in calibration models to adjust filament settings, use Califlower to adjust shrinkage compensation, and fine-tune flow rate and XY-skew. If you do it right, as a result, you will have excellent prints.
Can you return and get another?
Aaand here we go. I have a P1P from kickstarter with a custom enclosure now. I have had it for a year and a half. Its my first printer ever. My first print with little to no experience was a figurine in the matte white pla they gave me. It came out fantastic. I’ve had plenty of print failures all of which were my own fault. Saying categorically that you can NEVER achieve repeatable outstanding finishes is simply false. These printers print very well for the majority of customers. From what I have seen on these forums almost every Ender user who ended up buying a Bambu printer has no idea how to print with it. They all complain about issues that are very likely their own fault. I also bought a P1S to start our print farm with. That printed the included green benchy gcode absolutely perfect in every way. And that was 5 minutes after bootup with nothing but the standard calibrations in the setup wizard. I then printed some of those turtles that came with it. Came out flawlessly and I never even opened a slicer. Telling people in the general community to avoid a printer that has very high praise from over 90% of the community at large is just stupid. Telling them to avoid an enclosed corexy and get an open-air bedslinger is equally as stupid as these two types of printers are designed for different tasks and 1 is much newer than the other.
I like the way you used the word stupid! 
I’m not here to argue and I express my opinion and own knowledge with this brand of printer. Obviously by the sounds of it you’ve taken upon yourself to start a print farm like the general vast amount of other that have since covid. To break down my opinion with yours isn’t a proper way of how things should be debated.
You say it’s never been a problem well I’d love to see some of the quality prints you’ve achieved with a P1P and P1S. I tell you I only use these to produce quick iterations of prototypes and use them to their best possible output of quality. Which happens to take more than standard print profiles that bambu labs provides.
My statement was solely based on MY experience and pertaining to the X1C specifically. I’m happy they’ve done a great task of helping bring you towards the world of 3D printing. But time and experience is what brings knowledge to the table wiremeup. I’ll continue to provide my opinion to the general consumer because all I see is a large user base of people that wanted to press the green button with little to no interaction of having to fully understand what exactly their doing.
When problems arise I don’t use their wiki. I’m capable of solving issues myself. But I do know these printers are not the best but more so the best for what you can get them for… as of now at least.
We have very different definitions of “D.O.A.”
Wait. Maybe those numbers happen to work for the particular filaments that you happen to buy, but I don’t see how that can be true in general. I have lately been going out of my way to sample filaments from different manufacturers, and even if I were to limit myself to just PLA, they don’t all print the same. Even if you rigorously dry all the filaments in the same way before using them, more often than not the calibration prints come out looking different for different filaments, even if the profile settings are exactly the same. Of the filaments I’ve tried, I would say most are meh, a small number have been disasters, and a small number have printed quite well. But even for those, I have no confidence that the next roll of the same make and model from the same manufacturer will print the same.
Now sure, maybe despite my best efforts I’m somehow doing it all wrong. And I hate doing calibrations because they’re so boring and tedious and time consuming and a great cause of delay before I can print what I really want to print, so I would much rather that you were 100% right. But sticking to the numbers you quoted and doing nothing? Well, sure, for throw-away prints that don’t matter, why not, because then, by definition, it doesn’t matter. But truly better overall? My eyes aren’t showing me that.
I had an Ender 3, way too slow and a constant headache. Ate upgrades that didn’t significantly improve it, just made small step changes.
I had an FLSUN QQS Pro, fast enough and a big build height, some parts I make took all of the build height. Once dialled in and hooked up to Octopi it was a very productive toy. It could be a bit capricous which is cooked into delta’s (a pig to tune out errors) and was a fun thing to watch working with it looking like something was going to fly off at any second especially at over 200mm/s. These can be got for all of 139EU from FLSUN for an amazon return including your call on parts needed to get it working properly which is a bargain for a workhorse but only the brave need to apply LOL.
Then I got a P1S, worked out of the box and has only had a minimal number of failures which I could count on my fingers. I do end up having to run more prints as I tend to print large things. BUT it works fine with all the flavours of PLA I’ve tried to date, ABS, PETG, Polycarb blends, it just gets on with it.
No lidar but that feels a teensy gimmicky, I don’t think I’ve missed it.
Camera feed is abysmal though
Oh and still hankering after an FLSUN V400 for taller parts.
Check the calibrate box at beginning of print. If you have an x1c, no reason to tinker. P1s, sure, adjustments can be made. I have decade old filament that’s never seen a bag that doesn’t need to be dried. You’re just regurgitating common talking points.
Have 2 X1C with AMS for over a year printing almost daily for at least 10 hours with many 2 - 3 days prints and never had issues.
Only 2 days ago the nozzle thermistor failed, replaced with full nozzle assembly and back to printing.