I have a p1s with ams unit that broke on the second print. It took over a week for them to figure out the problem. Almost 2 weeks to get the parts. I got the brandnew printer working again the ordered a second ams system the showed up malfunctioning on one spool. This took almost 3 weeks to finaly fix and the printer took a s#*t 2 hours later! I have since got it working again with parts I source else where! The quality control on the p1s is horrible! I should not have to rebuild a brand new unit that states 45 minutes out of the box!
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yeah i think too many people think they can dial in their machines better than bambu has done⌠both of mine have printed excellent since day one and i rarely calibrate filaments most work with bambu filament profiles really well
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Totally understandable and agreed. From my experience and ordering more printers here and there if you examine them you might notice slight differences. Our X1C combo from april 2023 compared to an X1C combo today has (New v3 Heatbed - Adjusted placement of cable sleeve which is where it shouldâve been in the first place, Different Z screw bearings top & bottom with bearing silicone covers on top, silicone boot over purge chute lever, different aluminum coated panels, AMS v3 internal frame - Doesnât suffer the warping issue of 1st & 2nd gen AMSâs which the older oneâs lid doesnât shut freely and slots 1 & 4 active rollers have tension which cause them to not drive smoothly compared to the newer AMS which lid closes all the way pretty much by letting close on itself and zero tension on all active rollers, upgraded AMS buffer cable with 90 degree at rear side to reduce stress - older AMS has a straight cable which after normal wear the sleeve has seperated from the connection point.)
So small differences but noticeable to someone who pays attention to what youâre paying for and values an honest dollar. I can only speak on what Iâve purchased and own from Bambu Labs but itâs looking for so theyâve made changes for the better along the past year which has improved their product.
Fingers crossed when their new flagship is announced these practices are in place and the refined version of what was supposed to be is even better and this sort of process doesnât happen the same. Iâd love to know that a printer I purchase 1 month wont contain newer better parts 6 months later like the heatbed which I now would need to buy for $120 on 1 x1c.
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This is exactly what I do to get great surface finishes. I set my wall and top layer speeds to around 150 mm/s max (for PLA). I also choose wall print order carefully (usually inner/outer/inner or outer/inner) and I tune other parameters for properties I care about on specific models. I primarily print models I designed myselfâspecifically for this manufacturing processâbecause most of the models I have downloaded do not seem to consider the limitations (or strengths) of FFF printing. I canât emphasize this enough. 90% of what you find on these free model sites is not âDesigned for Manufacturabilityâ and it will print like garbage.
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I am truly sorry about your issues with the X1C. I have owned mine since October 2023 and have about 1700 hours on it. I have had my own issues with various filaments, and settings. Practice makes perfect⌠I have been selling my creations and as I had tried to âpersonallyâ set the printer to do whatever I found on youtube or on here, I found that the actual best solutions are what is already programmed into the printer. I have worked with PLA, PLA+, ABS, PETG, and have found several issues with all of them, but even as my patience had worn thin many times, I persisted, and have produced many sellable products. I am even thinking about buying a second X1C so I can produce more in same amount of time. I researched 3d printers for a while before deciding on this one, and it has blessed me and my learning âcurveâ! Again, I am sorry that your purchase is not working to acceptable limits. (And NO i do not work for BAMBU)
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Apologies in advance, I would hate to have him as a customer.
I intend to close this thread if there are no further meaningful/on topic responses. Going onceâŚ
I agree 100% Do the same with no issues that I havenât caused myself. I hear how hard ABS is and my converted to P1S just plows through prints. I have left it alone for that very reason. Donât mess around and find out with something that already works.
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I guess since the OP is no longer engaged with it, it maybe met the OPâs original purpose.
This is crazies. I have never seen better prints than on my P1S.
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Iâm not sure about all the other problems but the micro ladar problem I can relate to as I was plagued with it too. In the end I looked at the routing the usb cable went and unplugged each end an reseated them both a few times. No problems since
Good luck
As per requested by bambu I replace the lidar or replace the entire machine. Doa⌠as i dont have the time to wait another month going back and forth, i will attempt to replace it myself. Very frustrating to get a machine that doesnt work 100% with a such high dollar amount. Just purchased this and do not have the funds to have multiple printerâs as they keep coming and dont even work properly. For now ill close this thread as resolved since im being sent a replacement, just want that âhassle-free printingâ bambu claims but with now 2 machines im far from it.
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Nope, waiting on bambus killer customer service wait times 
Not DOA. Impaired, maybe. The printer can function very well without LIDAR.
As of 6/22 still no lidar lol this ticket was put in 5/24 and no sign of any help.
Think i also need a bed replacement as this machine as been giving me nonstop issues. Over the last 3 days this is a list ive done and STILL having problems with this printer.
⢠Manual Bed Tram (multiple times)
Factory reset
⢠Calibrate Printer (multiple times) from studio and printer itself
⢠Filament Calibration (lidar and automatic) using Studio AND Orca
- Bambu Lab Green (Not dried)
- Overture PLA Matte Black (Dried sitting at 10%)
- Overture PLA Black (Dried sitting at 10%)
- Overture Rock PLA (culprit??)
-Sunlu Blue (Not dried)
⢠7 cold pulls, used 2 different filaments for cold pulls (matte black and blue above)
⢠Tried different plate - Gold PEI and Black PEI ( both official)
⢠Cleaned bed with recommended dish brush as per wiki and used blue dawn and 91% ipa to clean bed. Mostly just soap and water but tried ipa with soap or just ipa
⢠Used needle included in accessories box for Unclogging Nozzle
⢠Tried Spool Holder on back instead of running from ams
⢠Tried multiple ams with different slots
⢠Made sure Z Screws donât have any play
⢠Turned machine over to make sure no issue with Z pulley or belt
⢠Deleted studio and installed new update (v01.09.03.50)
⢠Changed PTFE Tube inside printer
⢠Did a complete Nozzle swap (used the 2nd .4 nozzle printer comes with)
⢠Cleaned Carbon Rods with IPA
⢠Used 2 different first layer files on makerworld
⢠Tried a large bed print with same results
⢠Used Generic and Overture profiles for necessary filament
No matter what I do itâs in the same area every single time the white filament is where i currently am AFTER doing all the steps above.
Only thing I havenât tried at this point is a new bed. I put my ticket in on 6/15 and have only gotten 2 responses. First was told to manually tram the bed. After doing it the first 5 times(was still there after every time), they told me to run a bed level calibration. Already did that after each bed tram.
Feel like my only option is a bed replacement or getting rid of it like my other bambu lab that was issue after issue.
As so often happens when thereâs not a full core dump, this will become 20 questions as people try to guess at the missing info.
So, one such question would be: Have you tried increasing your first layer height? If thereâs irregularity on the build plate, that would tend to compensate for it. A first layer height of 0.08mm will highlight a lot more imperfections than 0.2mm, for instance.
What about ruling out layer adhesion as a possible culprit? I can see how that might be an issue, regardless of how well you cleaned it. One thumbprint in the wrong place and all that work goes out the window. So, how to test this? Wear gloves and apply a strong layer adhesive. Your choice on that, but donât choose Bambuâs (itâs meant as a bond breaker). Definitely overkill, but vision Miner is the strongest I know of. Yes, it shouldnât be necessary, but to quote a certain actress, âItâs the only way to be sure.â Then youâll know.
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All of these have been used as .2- .22 layer height.
Already tried a basically brand new pei sheet. Both sides on both plates. Theyâre clean.
This wasnt a problem days ago.
Well, if there your bed is lumpy and the hypothesis is that these prints are showing you where, then put a straight edge across those locations with a light behind it and look for the light. If you see the light through a gap, photograph it, and then you have proof you can show to Bambu or whomever.
Do you have a recommendation? I only ask because its flat according to the ruler im using. Its a cheap metal ruler, so that might not even be straight. Heres what it looks like
Youâre right: a cheap ruler may very well not be straight. I have no recommendation regarding what to use for a straight edge. If it were me Iâd use a Mitutoyo or equivalent quality to avoid pushback after the fact. Photograph the name using an orientation photo and use it as part of your evidence stack. Theyâre not expensive, and compared to your time definitely not expensive However, I do recommend you check it when the bed is at your print temperature because the bed will expand and likely change shape, and that is the condition youâre interested in and therefore the one you want to check with your straight edge. Otherwise, the pushback will be that itâs not a valid measurement.
Edit: in theory bed leveling would compensate, but we only have the one fixed resolution. Itâs not like some printers that can gather 100 points or the like.