Long time bambu user and recommender. Since early X1C days. FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT IS HOLY. PLEASE ADD A FLOW ADJUSTMENT ON THE SCREEN. The new H2D is clearly on a professional level. Treat the customers who shelled out for this machine like adults. Let us adjust the flow from the touch screen mid print. There are $100 enders that can do this among literally every other cheap printer on earth. There is no excuse. I am absolutely fed up with wasting countless 15 minute chunks of my life to print little squares to tune flow that I spend the previous 3 years tuning on the 2nd layer. This is ridiculous.
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I’d like to point out that I find the “Ludacris” mode to be exponentially more detrimental to people’s understanding of these machines than a flow rate knob ever would. This exacerbates my frustrations with the situation. You include a knob that should not exist and ignore the one that should exist.
How would that work? Just multiply all of the e values in the g-code by some constant? I’m struggling to see the use case.
Yeah. Basically it scales all extruder movements by a factor, so that when the gcode says, move filament 1mm, it moves the filament by 1.05mm (for 5%more) or .95mm (for 5% less). Kind of a “oh my, this filament spool suddenly has a thin area” rescue.
But since Bambu filament never has such thin areas, (I’m joking, I have never used a spool of Bambu filament in my life, although I have some on order) so I have no idea. But they might not feel the need to support this.
I get the feeling that Filament, overall, is better than it used to be.
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Actually I never missed that setting on my X1C. I have used it regularly on my Ultimaker 2+. There it was necessary because the printer itself was not extruding very consistently. For best results, I had to increase flow for layers 5-10 and then revert it back to default. Even exchanging the extruder for a 160€ bondtech didn’t solve that. maybe it came from the bowden setup.
On the X1C, extrusion has been flawless so far. Except for one manufacturer, all spools so far also had very consistent diameter. For adjusting the flow to the actual diameter and material, at first I dialled in each spool. but I have stopped that and completely rely on the Lidar, which does an excellent job.
In my opinion, live flow adjustment was a necessary hack to compensate for flaws of the older machines and bad materials. I don’t see the need for that hack anymore and can happily live without it.
What I would love to see are more actual values like e.g. current speed and flow and some more lifetime statistics like total amount of material printed. But that is just for my curiosity, not really needed.
For consistency you’d think there would be some kind of roller digital callipers that measures the filament as it’s entering the hot end, and then the machine automatically adjusts the values to keep consistency even with bad rolls.
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It’s not a Pro level printer by any means!
It is a very good hobbyist printer.
As such it isn’t a set it and forget it device like an ink jet printer on paper.
These machines need plenty of babysitting to make acceptable prints. They just aren’t at a level of pure automated perfect printing.
I don’t see this changing for the foreseeable future with any hobbyist 3D printer.
Adding a flow adjustment on the fly is useless. Most people have zero understanding of how these printers actually work! So adding another adjustment won’t improve anything!
This!!! This right here. These printers have such innovations, this could be implemented me thinks.
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The more knobs the better, that’s all there is to it. You don’t need to use it? Great, then don’t use it. It will do you no harm in its existence. Sure, extrusion consistency is better now but there are plenty of times where I’m using a filament for 1 thing and do not feel bothered to print out calibration squares when I could just do it on the fly. Same with z-offset adjustments.
The “well its good enough now so why implement it” reasoning for any sort of user adjustment is tone deaf in all honesty. It falls along the same lines as “I don’t have that problem so there must not be anything wrong” you see in countless threads in the 3d printing community.
@tomp61 Cool, someone don’t understand how to use it, then don’t. What does that literally have to do with anything? There is literally nothing “pro” about on the fly flow adjustment. It has been a thing for a very long time and implemented in just about all firmwares.
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Coming from a background in technical support this isn’t true. The more ways a customer can “tweak” the product, the more headaches there are to support it.
People have to remember these printers are aimed at the masses. These are people who just want to print items and not have to tweak every setting. If you want to tweak settings and adjust flow rates on the fly then a Bambu printer really isn’t for you, there are plenty of other printers out there that are aimed at your market segment. I suggest you build yourself a Voron.
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You can buy my Voron 2.4 300x300 
I used my Voron with pleasure, but I am very pleased with the H2D and the slice and print process without the need to tweak everything.
Absolutely not! The more knobs available, the more ways users can screw up. Especially when they were used to it from previous printers.
BambuLab try to make their printers as easy to use as possible. I have heard the comparison, that they try to be the Apple of 3d printers. I think they do a fairly good job at it. Adjustable everything just doesn’t fit that concept.
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The slicer alone has (and the profiles they download from makerworld for that matter) the largest affect on a user causing headaches to support. Heck, the dumb speed button on the printer causes way more print defects and noise complaints than any live Z or live flow adjustment would.
You do what they do in the slicer, hide them in an advanced section locked off unless the user voluntarily unlocks it.
Can we also realize that the H2D is sold with a damn laser as well? One that requires multitudes amount more effort maintenance wise than the target audience you seem to be aiming for.
The H2D can be classified as prosumer given the available accessors, price tag and capabilities. I do not think it is unreasonable to request straight forward setting adjustments on such a machine.
@Bullocks I’m not sure what you are referring to as an stl holds 0 filament data…I gave you an example: Printing one quick object with a specific filament and dont want to spend the time calibrating it. Can watch the first layer and easily get within the ballpark of what I need flow wise on the fly without the need for pre-calibration
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take a moment to re-read the op to the end. I adjust the flow during the first two layers for the remainder of the print to correct for different spools of filament. I change single colors often and I want high quality fully extruded parts. The lack of a live flow adjustment, and the need to waste 15 minutes for a song and dance startup routine (however effective it is)just to print a test card set for flow check. means that over the course of my running these printers I have spent several days of my life on something that is already fully implemented on what seems like every other brand of printer in the world.
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Less user controls only helps bambu, not the user. Eventually there will only be a send and start button lol. Less work for support = more profit. Like those kid tablets. Except we arent kids. Or atleast shouldnt be if we are operating an h2d
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Why do you do that? The printer calibrates flow at the beginning of the print and probably more accurate than you could do it. At least in my direct comparison test on the X1C, the parts with auto calibration had better surfaces than when manually calibrating.
I know that in the first days of the X1C, the Lidar was a piece of junk. But this has changed since. I now get perfect results with auto calibration at start of print even with transparent PETG on the textured plate. Maybe you tried it in the early days and never enabled it anymore? Then you really miss out.
I’m very sure that H2D does flow calibration too at every start of print. So just slab your colors in and print away!
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@Alex_vG
The H2D does NOT do flow rate calibration automatically. It only does PA (flow dynamics) if enable. It will take whatever flow ratio value is in the filament preset and use that. There is a reason there is no auto flow rate calibration in both the calibration menu or the final 'send to printer’s screen.
If you don’t believe me, go ahead and test it yourself. Send 2 flow rate calibration (or any print really) with 2 different flow ratios set in the filament profile (something like .95 and 1.05 to make it obvious).
If you are going to continue to argue, then at least have your information correct about how the printer operates and what it can and can’t do
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If that is really the case then it would be a huge step back from the X1C. I don’t own an H2D so you could well be right. I’m still not convinced but as you say, I don’t have confirmed information on the H2D. I’m curious and will try to find out more.