A small teaser for our Apr.15th Contest

[MakerWorld]

Hi MakerWorld,

Since last December, we’ve been hosting weekly design contests for our community, and our designers have consistently impressed us with their spectacular entries for 19 consecutive contests.

For our next contest starting on April 15th, we have a special surprise in store for all of you. This contest will run for a longer duration than our previous ones, and the awards will be even more generous compared to before.

Without further ado, let’s get straight to the point: the primary objective of this upcoming contest is to highlight the precision and accuracy of prints and models using a 0.2mm nozzle. We encourage all contest entries to focus on showcasing the intricate level of detail and complexity that can be achieved with a 0.2mm nozzle.

There are ways to help with your demonstration:

1、Include a comparison between the outcome of a 0.4mm nozzle(or other specs) and a 0.2mm nozzle. Highlight the variations in accuracy and detail on corresponding parts of each model to emphasize the advantages of using a 0.2mm nozzle for achieving finer details and greater precision in printing.

2、Illustrate a 0.2mm Nozzle’s functionality and practicality. There are many objects such as smaller molds/tools/signs that attain optimal print quality only when utilizing a 0.2mm Nozzle, so consider entries that are best suited for printing with this nozzle size.

Some ideas for potential entries include:

• Gaming Tokens/Mini-figs

• Doll house Furniture/Utensils

• Casino Gadgets (chips, dice, etc)

• Shoe charms

• Keycaps

• Miniature replicas (Focus the display on detailed parts)

To ensure the quality of your entries, here are some small tips for successfully printing with a 0.2mm nozzle:

• Make sure to completely dry your filaments

• Make sure to lower your layer height for your designs. Your layer height should not exceed 0.16mm when printing with a 0.2mm nozzle

• You may want to slow down your printing speed just a bit

• Make sure to check filament compatibility before printing.

For more detailed filament compatibility information, please refer to

Filament guide - build plate, nozzle and AMS compatibility including required parametes

Important notice: It is crucial that the entries and print profiles you submit clearly indicate that the model was printed with a 0.2mm nozzle. Our team will conduct test prints to verify nozzle size, and any discrepancies will lead to disqualification.

We are already anticipating your amazing designs, knowing for a fact that some will astound us beyond belief.
Happy printing!

The MakerWorld Team

[Kenny89]

it doesnt specify if it actually needs to be our own model ?

[GenericUser]

I’ve only just cracked open my 0.2mm today on my A1Mini. The first print was 5hrs for a sign which turned out great, but I think the major deterrent for me is the extra time overall. I’ll be interested to see how people are setting up their models if its possible to save time.

[SAKURAgi]

awesome, cant wait to see the tokens

[Printcells]

That’s great! Wanted to test out 0,2mm and make something ultradetailed <3

[ProtoSpyre]

Only printed 3 times using a 0.2 nozzle. Not a full model though only, so this will be fun!

[Dr_Operator]

@Kenny89

it doesnt specify if it actually needs to be our own model ?

Contest or not, you shouldn’t ever re-upload the designs created by another user.

[Kenny89]

Yeah if its a remix you can i guess so like it said … it doesnt state if it jas to be yours or not

[Kenny89]

Also your missing the point of my question wich is does it need to be our model ? As do we need to create a model or do they only want pictures and print profiles tuned ?

[MakerWorld]

Hi,
Your entries for this contest should be your own original model. Thanks

[Kenny89]

thank you for the kind reply

[Printcells]

Could you please specify the dimensions of the model in the contest details, for example, miniatures should be maximally 5 cubic centimeters etc. Thank you

[user_3026326371]

Warning! Long text if you dare to read it all.
Please skip if you don’t need it or find it too long!

A contest to highlight the benefits of using a 0.2mm nozzle and that with rather a lot of restrictions in the form of how the entry has to be presented.
Isn’t that a bit like letting the user do all the hard work so all those not really that great profiles our machines come with a default can get updates to make them better ?
I mean, what better way to get an awful lot of really good date than to make a contest out of it…

Yes, the benefits for the winners will be great but even more for the company - no offense, just being honest about the marketing and labour here

I use 3D printer now for too many years to still bother counting and I started with our earliest available slicers.
Just to give you a general idea here…
I have used those fine nozzles quite a lot until I invested into a half decent resin printer.
No FMD printer has a chance to come close to the level of detail these machine are capable by default, let alone with thinner than standard layer heights.
So what exactly ARE the benefits of using a 0.2mm nozzle ?

Back in my day it was accuracy.
Like when you needed to create a gearbox of small size and with fine teeth.
Modelling figurines dragons and such wasn’t really a thing…
No thanks to the NOT ease of use of the available programs.
What was available was usually so full of errors the slicer could not handle that no one bothered.
Mind you none of those models were created with 3D printing in mind…
Today though things are very different on all fronts.
If you download a detailed model of whatever than chances are you can convince your slicer to deal with it.
Ever ACTUALLY checked how the details (using a 0.4 nozzle) change with the size or enlargement factor of the model ?
What is a blur for the quick check model at 20% size comes out really impressive at 200% the original scale…
Quite similar story for switching to a 0.2mm nozzle…
You do a simple test at home without even using your printer:

Take one of these permanent markers with a chisel tip.
One edge wider than the other.
Try to draw a circle using both widths…
Notice how you have to spin the pen in order to keep an even width ?
Check those turns and how their ‘roundness’ changes with the line width!
THIS is the most notable difference between nozzle sizes!

Take your last k-factor calibration, preferably the pattern type and take another look at it.
See how this corner is more or less defined depending on the value of the k-factor ?
The best one reflects the smallest corner size - or using a 0.2 nozzle.
Those blobby and fat ones reflect the 0.4 nozzle in terms of possible details.
This becomes really obvious whenever you need something pointy or really slim.
Here the 0.2 nozzle shines !
Translated to a figurine or such detailed things:
Whenever the nozzle has to move to form those details the LINE WIDTHS will be far less than what a 0.4 nozzle could provide.
The slicer knows these differences and adjusts the pathways accordingly, modern ones anyway LOL
So instead of taking an average pathway to goes somewhat half way through a wrinkled line, the path for the 0.2 nozzle will include all those wrinkles…
If you model ALLOWS for this benefit than using a 0.2 nozzle over a 0.4 one will make a hell of a difference and impress - if the print setting match.

A thing not really often mentioned enough are the real world struggles going thin…
A clogged nozzle is not just annoying, at 0.2mm is becomes easier to just throw it away and to use a new one…
Stick to high quality and bone dry filament while avoiding anything with a filler, glow, sparkle or such …
It if not melts the same way as the base filament chances are you will accumulate the stuff sooner rather than later…
Needless to say that if you never bothered much with properly calibrating a new roll of filament that you might have a very hard time switching to 0.2mm…
Things you get away with using a 0.4 can ruin one print after the other without properly calibrating the filament for the 0.2 nozzle.
Part of this is due to how great our modern printers and slicers are compared to the early days.
They seem to able to ignore physics…

Bambu recommends to not print any thicker than 0.16mm when using a 0.2mm nozzle and similar for the 0.4 nozzle…
Back in the day the golden rules was to stay BELOW 50% of the actual nozzle width for the layer height.
Using 0.18 with a 0.4mm nozzle was already pushing things in terms of layer adhesion.
For better accuracy and strength 0.15 or 0.12 was used…
The plastic not only has to make it ONTO the previous layer, it HAS TO BOND WITH IT!
This works through temperature and PRESSURE - by pushing the filament out to more than the actual nozzle diameter.
The TIME to nozzle is able to transfer heat to the previous layer is as important as how much heat the extruded plastic can transfer to the previous layer to melt together.
A good balance of speed and temperature can provide impressive results…
But at 0.2mm SLOWING down can produce far more problems than for a larger nozzle…
Whenever YOU design a model for using a very fine nozzle you should keep this slowing down in mind…
Imagine a traditional style guard rail resting on those nicely detailed posts…
Works great at true scale and in wood but once those post get close to 3 times the nozzle diameter FDM printers love to fail…
for them these posts turn into tiny and isolated islands…
So you see that it IS of vital importance that all you settings are properly matched and calibrated…

Start with all standard settings but prefer a layer height lower than 0.16mm
Do a good set of test prints and try to keep them simple and fast.
A benchy is great but also takes a lot of time…
Start with the vase mode to get the wall width to math your extrusion factor, preferably of course the other way around
Then do a temp tower or one of these quick all in one models that include overhangs, holes and pins to match as well.
You don’t want spiderwebs or blobs but you do want a clean surface, good overhangs and good layer adhesion.
Don’t bother going further until you matched them…

Time to tune the k-factor to be able to check what speeds work best for the various things our printer shall do.
Make it a habit to save a new profile every time you change setting from now on.
Add like a version number to it and also stick to one thing at a time!
You can delete the older ones every time you honed in one setting to the best result.
Create at least two basic profiles here, one for general use and one for highly detailed print jobs where you know the machine will have slow down here and there or deal with overhangs and such.
Like one for best possible if the model allows for it and the other for those jobs where speed is not everything.

The temperature is something you might have to adjust along the way, so PLEASE note those changes in your profile name…
More speed allows for and often REQUIRES a higher extrusion temperature.
Isolated and fine details or thing supports on the other hand might require a lower speed and lower temperature in order to come out as good as required.
A simple cylinder with a 20% infill and three wall loops can max out your nozzle capabilities with ease and print lightning fast so to say.
The realistic bark of an old pine tree on the other hand means you either rattle the printer to bits or reduce your print speed accordingly…
Having said that…

You can fine tune every speed related setting to the max if you dare…
And there is plenty of available test models with detailed explanations for those less experienced designers out there who just want to print things…
But you should always keep in mind that no test model will ever reflect on all possible details and problem areas your selected model might have…
Print times will go up big time when using a 0.2mm nozzle - does it REALLY matter if it take 15 minute more or less ?
Or in other words: What would frustrate you more here:
Having to wait 15 or 30 minutes longer or seeing your print fail ?
Once you have setting that provide really good results, even if SLOW please save this profile with a meaningful name so you always have something you know works to fall back to!
It will take a bit longer to properly calibrate for a 0.2 nozzle the first time…
After that however yo can use these two base profiles to create new ones where you try to push the temps and speed to the max.
For a new roll you then won’t have to worry about tuning it all over again as all speed related settings can be changed IF required based on percentages.
Get the basics and the temp done and the rest is completed with 2 or 3 test prints

[MakerWorld]

Hi,
We are not going to set any restrictions for your designs. The purpose of this contest is to demonstrate the quality and precision of prints with our 0.2mm nozzle, so your entries could be of any size or shape, as long as you believe that this model best demonstrates the accuracy of 0.2mm-nozzle prints. The tips provided in our teaser are merely suggestions to enhance your presentation, but they are not mandatory.

Our requirement for this contest is that your designs are print-tested with a 0.2mm nozzle and to attach an actual photo of the printed model. Your submitted print profile should also indicate that the model was printed with a 0.2mm nozzle. There will be no other constraints or limitations.
Thanks

[SWElite]

Thanks for this contest. Does Bambu Lab plan to sell a filament dryer in the future?

[user_992767842]

I have a more technical applicattion here. This is part of a low pressure, rotational nozzle. The operation is upside down, so a liquid drips onto a plate, and by a high rotational speed (about 5000 / sec), the liquid gets pushed against the wall. That wall has to have these grooves, will flow down and ultimately create a mist of bubbles just some micrometers of diameter.

Now in the photo below you have two prints: the left with a 0.4 nozzle, the right with a 0.2 nozzle (I’ve added the distribution plate and propellor to create a better overview.

Both use exactly the same print model.

You can see that on the left, the grooves are basically ironed out, and don’t work. On the right, I was able to define very well the grooves, and it works perfectly.

[Madmax]

Very technical, but I’m a Chem-E so I love it! 5000 rev/sec?

[MakerWorld]

There are a couple of points we want to point out after seeing some of our contest entries for our Master Challenge. While we encourage users to explore the precision of printing smaller objects with our 0.2mm nozzle, there are alternative approaches to showcase the capabilities of this nozzle size.
Consider designing models that emphasize the fine detail and precision achievable with a 0.2mm nozzle, regardless of their size.

We’ve noticed some entries scaling down previous models to a smaller size for printing with a 0.2mm nozzle, but we believe this may not be the most effective approach.
Instead, focus on creating structurally complex and advanced models that showcase the precision of 0.2mm nozzle printing, as these are more likely to stand out in the contest.

[Henlor]

@MakerWorld

We’ve noticed some entries scaling down previous models to a smaller size for printing with a 0.2mm nozzle, but we believe this may not be the most effective approach.

To say the least those models should be disqualified according to the rules!