So, I have successfully printed the enclosure, which helps to reach around 45-50 degrees inside. But still cannot print flat. PETG is fine, but ABS is still a bit off. Printing at 280 nozzle and 100 bed with slow speeds (i believe they are slow :)). And no cooling, except for the overhangs.
I have contacted the filament producer, and he said that ABS is not meant for prints that long, and thats the issue. I am just wondering if anybody may be successful with printing long abs prints that stays flat.
I am thinking about making some sort of clamps to keep the bed flat, or just go even lower on speed.
I’m afraid they’re right. ABS is quite tricky because it warps a lot. Next time try ASA.
With ABS, you need to print at bed as hot as possible with the nozzle temperature as low as possible in the environment as hot as possible.
Turn bed up to 110deg, slow down the print and turn the nozzle down to 250-260deg. You need to try it, some ABS filaments allow printing even cooler, but make sure the layers still stick to each other. You slow down the print speed to be able to use lower temperature, the filament will have more time to melt in the nozzle.
Clamps will most likely not help. If they manage to hold the plate, then the print will release from the plate. You need to work with temperatures, not mechanics.
The other option is to divide the object into several smaller pieces and glue them together after printing them out. ABS can be glued well using acetone.
P1P unfortunately can only reach 100 degrees on the bed.
I will try to lower the nozzle temp down then.
I though the high temp on the nozzle will help release the “stress” which is made during the extrusion on the material, but i guess it is not about it.
It’s the opposite. If you print at high temp, the material shrinks more because it cools down by higher amount of degC.
There is another option if you’re the author (designer) of printed part. Avoid long straight lines (walls, infill). Adjust the object so it doesn’t have long flat walls, use another infill without long straight lines of filament. These are major source of warping forces.
Thanks, will try to do that!
I am not sure how i could avoid long walls, the design purpose is it to be a long wall hah.
I can try to change the infill. Right now this is what it looks like.
I’m not at my home computer at the moment, so I can’t show you what I exactly mean. I’ll try to explain using my poor English.
You can avoid long flat walls by puttin some grooves there, using them as an ornament (decoration), some grid of grooves, maybe diagonally. It will release the stress in wall straight lines. Basically you create expansion joint.
And yes, the gyroid infill is optimal for less stress.
