I’m not sure. I’ve never had a P1S. I think they are the same frame and base, so it would probably work, but the auto off that uses the lidar cal tab on the right to turn it off. I don’t think the P1S has that, so you would just loose that feature. Give it a go and post your findings.
So the only option would be to use the switch manually? Also, on the model page it says:
"Wiring from the heater to a power source. This part is up to you. You can put a hole in the bottom and run a cord out, or I put a 2-pole molex connector in line and ran the wire to the terminal block on the power supply. Your choice here, but the fan has wire you can use. "
Can you help me understand this? I assume you mean that you should wire the fan to the power supply and run an AC cord out? And if you do mean to wire the heater to the power supply, do you know if it can provide an extra 500W? Image from the wiki:
Especially since this is intended for 110V users (thanks for that btw, most of them are 220V), I’m not sure if it can provide the extra power without damaging something.
The spec you are providing are output specs at 24 volt DC from the power supply. This heater is wiring to the 110v AC input to the power supply. This is also for use only in 110v countries. If you are in a 220 volt country, then you probably will not be able to find the 110v amazon heater and this will not work for you.
For those in 110v countries that may be reading this and are confused, As long as you power your printer from 110v, you can use the terminal strip on the input side of the power supply for power. The cord input block uses a standard IEC connector with a fuse and switch (Reference McMaster Carr number 5428N14) and is rated at 10A. (Note: the bambu labs one comes with a 6A fuse) If you run your heater to the input terminal on the inlet side of the power supply, this will give you the power you need without running the cord out the bottom. There is enough remaining power to work without blowing the fuse, but it can be upsized safely to 10A if necessary. 500w heater at 110V = 4.5A.
Please note that this heater is specific to the 110v market. This option is not for 220 volt countries. The chart above is for 24v DC output from the power supply and is irrelevant to this heater.
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Thanks for the clarification!
I found this article, which details the X1 power consumption (roughly 300W when heating). Combining that and the 500W of the heater, that means a peak 800W power consumption (~7.3A at 110V). Can you provide a guide or something similar to replace the 6A fuse with a 10A fuse?
Remove the power cord, put a small flat screwdriver under the tab and the section between the power cord and the power switch and the tray should pop out. The X1C comes with a 6A fuse from the factory. The X1E has a 10A. Remove the 6, insert a 10. The 10A fuse in the X1E is a ceramic 5x20mm, reference McMaster Carr part number 6986K625. Although you can probably find them on amazon or eBay cheaper. This will give you enough power through the standard cord to run the 500 watt heater.
FYI, I did run mine on the 6A for quite a while before I changed it out. It never blew, but figured it was right on the edge and when it went, it would probably waste a good print. I found a spare laying around the house. Check computer power supplies, you may have one in your junk pile, the 10A is more common anyway and they are on lots of equipment.
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Can you provide an image or something to help? I assume you mean the little rectangular tab between the 0-1 switch and the socket.
Thats the one. Small screwdriver under the bottom and the tray comes out. Fuse is inside.
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Ok, thanks! Looking forward to using this mod. (I actually asked for a 110V version of the Bambu Sauna but I haven’t received a response yet)
The worst part is running the power cord to the power supply input. Removing the back panel and getting to the power supply is a little more intense that I had initially thought. Once I did it a few times, I can disassemble an X1C in my sleep.
i need to say something before u buy that my micro lidar cover melted cuz i was using a chamber heater
What temperature where you running the heater at?
+1 to basic foil reflective tent enclosures… I’ve not had any issues since I got it. I was offended they called the X1 Carbon case an enclosure. It’s leakier than the US governments wallet.
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Hello Olias,
Thank you for that excellent post. I’m curious if you know of anyone that’s done this upgrade? Also, can the X1E heater and components be purchased from Bambu directly? I was under the impression, you had to go through some dealer red/tape for X1E parts/support. If so, I’m definitely interested in this approach. Thanks again.
Thank you for your post! Going to the Makerworld link now!
Plenty. This thread is full of people trying various methods but there were too many forum posts on the topic in general posted all over this forum. It would be an injustice to call out one or two because each post offers some interesting nuances such as thermal shielding versus active heating. Just run a quick search for “chamber heater” and you’ll find tons of user mods.
You’re right. It’s not just red tape—Bambu’s pulled a complete 180 on direct X1E support as compared to the rest of their offering which as you know is a direct-to-consumer model. They are pushing everything through alternate sales channels. The X1E was always aimed at enterprise customers prioritizing low maintenance, reliability, ease of use, and most importantly, secure Ethernet connectivity. When IP is on the line, even the shape of a prototype part can tip off competitors. In cases involving ITAR-controlled designs, leaking a single mechanical feature could violate serious regs.
As for X1E parts availability? Forget it. While it shares a lot with the X1, try finding something like the Ethernet controller MC card on their site—it’s not there. That’s by design. Closed ecosystem. Channel control.
Honestly, if I were in the market for a new Bambu printer (which I’m not, thanks to Bambu screwing over early adopters), I’d go for the Qidi Plus4 over an X1C. It’s got everything the X1C has and more: bigger build volume, active chamber heater, 120°C bed temps, all for $800. What’s more, Qidi has embraced full support for Orca Slicer through a collaborative development effort giving the Orca volunteer team support to enhance the experience with their printers and providing regular updates. So if you like Bambu Studio, Orca is a better version and Qidi is making it possible that you don’t have to learn a new interface. Bambu on the other hand in case you haven’t been following, has essentially turned their back on the community by Blocking future network operability unless you go to their draconian bambu connect architecture as was discussed ad-nauseum in this 1,200 post thread.
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Strangely enough, I don’t recall seeing any firmware updates pushed towards X1E users, especially since the January 16th (bs) security patch… also, haven’t heard whether the P1 series and the A1 series have received the (in)famous security firmware patch as stated by Bambu. Any info on the above that someone might share with us?
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