I know. My wife keeps telling me that…
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Hello Zviratko and others,
I have been using Generic PLA from REAL (Dutch company?) which is not really expensive.
And the default settings for BBL PLA
And the default setting for slicing
And a lttle 3DLac on the printbed.
I printed the testfiles from https://www.youmagine.com/designs/make-2016-3d-printer-shootout-models
I also printed the spool from the X1CC-memory without any modification.
ALL printed NORMALLY, stayed on the printbed during printing (even the Z Wobble test without Brim).
ALL came off EASY with a little help from the scraper.
So if there is any other reason tell me why I should not use 3Dlack
Happy printing!
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Interesting. Are you using the 3DLAC spray or glue stick? Just noticed there’s not just one 3DLAC. I used spray and had no luck at all. Weird. I even wash the bed regularly with detergent and did so before applying it the last time I tried.
It’s of course possible that my PLA had some weird additives (it was very brittle when printed to be honest). Also, parts with larger bases will stick well enough to almost anything, it’s the tall stuff you have to worry about.
I guess YMMV
Oooohhh!!!
I just got my liquid 3dlac gluestick and the enclosed bambu lab gluestick literally just ran out N O W!
Are you saying the 3dlac does not work on my sheet mate?!? 
I have not felt such a chill through my bones since I upset my girlfriend earlier today… 
May the force be with you mates!
/Silverbullit scared now
I raised my bed temperature to 45ºC, slowed first layer to half and tried 3D LAC spray again… and it works.
No idea what happened previously, now it stucks a bit too much I’ll have to try the plate that came with the printer, as this is on a replacement one and it is a bit different (I guess older as it also mentions other materials than PLA which they changed later)
A light coating of the hairspray “aquanet” works on all of the build plates and with any material. I have printed a couple of hundred prints using aquanet and have yet to have a failure. Be sure to clean the plates after 15 or so prints.
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To clarify, I purchased the liquid 3DLac gluestick and it is not grabbing on to the surface of the buildplate. It is literally making drops that slides off the buildplate. I tried dishing it with YES (dishwashing brand no#1) cleaning with soap water, industrial IPA 99,9% (0,01% atmospheric water) from Skoogs (Industry shop for chemicals, best shop in the swedish wilderness/hood) I also tried Kjell Companys IPA and a few others with highest purity I been able to find. It still does not bind to the buildplate none whatsoever… just makes drops and slide off. (If you rub it intensely nouf you’d can get a liquid film layer but it instantly pops everywhere and makes drops that simply slides around on top of the build plate.
I have now purchased another precisely same as provided buildplate and at the same a third buildplate with doublesided texture.
These additional pair of buildplates behaves precisely the same… 
Not 100% satisfied customer to put it mildly
Are you mates having the same experience with the liquid gluestick?
Are the options with sprayhead any different at all?
May the force be with you, glad to be in the company of skilled experts on everything 3D for great replies and sharing your knowledge! Much appreciated!
/Silverbullit
I’m using 3Dlac on the cool plate for PLA, default settings, it never failed. Working perfectly.
For PETG, ASA and ABS I’m usind Dimafix on the engineering plate. Perfect too.
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I’m having great sucess with the Textured PEI plate but sometimes I want a dead flat bottom surface. I’m going to try the aquanet route for the cool plate, since I’m not having a great time with the gluestick or a bare plate.
In general I’m quite pleased with the textured build plate for printing PETG, but I’m finding it doesn’t stick quite strong enough when printing a large 3D model (4 inches in diameter and 7 inches high) which has proportionately little contact with the build plate. The printed object breaks loose during printing, quickly followed by spaghetti. Well, at least now I know that the spaghetti detection works! Not as soon as I would like it to detect, but eventually.
After two fails, I’m going to try reverting to the cool plate with glue stick, and maybe it will stick better to that without breaking free.
Are you using brims? I’ve been using brims on pretty much everything I print and that solved pretty much all my problems with lifting. The standard setting for brim-object gap is .1mm and I had difficulty removing the brim cleanly, but .35 to .4mm gap (depending on the filament) keeps everything on the plate and comes off easy.
I still use glue on every print as well.
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I tried adding 12mm wide brims with zero brim-object gap, as I don’t see how it can work if there is a gap. Anyway, on the textured plate it still failed. Would having a gap improve it at all? I don’t see how, but with the default being a gap of 0.1mm, there must be some reason a gap would still help.
The type of thing I’m printing looks similar to this:
and, as you can tell from the cross-section, there isn’t a lot of contact with the build plate:
In my case, it’s around 4" in diameter and around 7 inches high, with the height seemingly acting in a lever-like way to break the print from the build plate.
No, probably not in your case. The brim gap is mostly to help remove the brim from the part. Too small of a gap and the brim doesn’t release from the part clean.
On something like your part, I guess it doesn’t really matter what plate you print on given how little the part is actually touching the print plate.
You probably need to print on rafts if you’re still having adhesion issues. But I still haven’t figured out good raft settings in Bambu Slicer yet, as I haven’t had a need to use them. When I did print a raft, I had issues getting the part to release from the raft cleanly. You might be able to print the raft in PLA while doing the part in PETG and have it release nicely, but I don’t know for sure how well it will work. I’ve only used different materials for top support interface layers.
Interesting idea! I’ve never tried rafts before, so the idea didn’t even occur to me. Maybe a soluble raft would handle the issue cleanly. Yet another reason I should maybe buy an AMS for my X1C (well, that and keeping the dust off my filament rolls when not in use).
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It could, and would only require one material change, so that’s nice.
I printed rafts on my previous printer with a single material and had really good results. But my previous printer had it’s own specific slicer with much, much better built in automatic raft settings and the part would peel off front the rafts super easy. I would guess if you messed with the raft settings and gaps in Bambu Studio, you could probably get away with doing it in a single material too.
I would try doing a couple layers of raft at minimum, with a wide expansion like the 12mm brim you tried before (this way if you do have a corner lift a bit, it won’t run the piece as the center will still stay adhered). Then do a few different Z gaps on each print and see what breaks off easy. Since .35-.4mm gap seems to work well on the brim to be able to easily peel off the part, maybe start there.
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What I had forgotten was: all else being equal, a smooth print bed surface will offer stronger adhesion than a textured one. 
Well, trying it again using glue stick on the engineering “cool plate”, this time it held. So, the lesson is that even though the textured plate is good for most PETG prints, there are still occasions (like the above) where a glue stick on a smooth surface wins the day. 
From what I’ve been reading, this “nano polymer adhesive” from Vision Miner might confer a stronger hold than regular glue stick:
It promises “incredible bed adhesion,” whatever that means.
Anyone know how it compares with Bambulab’s new liquid adhesive? Is it the same thing, better, or worse? I’m tempted to buy a sample to have on hand, but I won’t because I don’t know what kind of shelf-life it might have. It’s something I might need only rarely.
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As they introduced the Bambu Liquid-Glue-Stick now I can tell, this is quite good.
Or as an alternative Magigoo Liquid Stick for PLA-ABS-PETG works fine.
Important: to have no visible defects you need to add little of them and then wipe it witha wet paper towel. Makes it perfectly smooth and with a little bit of water, you can remove the small amout of glue from your parts.
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Vision Miner compared to the Bambu stick offers much better adhesion. I bought a 50ml bottle for about $20 and I think it will last me quite a while (6 months or more). It is certainly worth a try!
I have found that even after using VM, some parts that have very little contact to the build plate have a higher chance popping off and rafts may still be necessary.
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