prints with a mix of white and black filaments mess up the white areas. I have black/grey colors in the white areas, even though the flushing is on auto calc and the multiplyer is on 1.0.
I use the 0.4 noozle, cool plate and Greentech Pro filaments, but I dont think its a filament problem.
here you can see the ugly grey rings arround my print. Does anyone know how to solve this problem? If its not possible to solve it, then multi prints with the AMS and Carbon X1 basically make no sense at all.
You need to increase the amount to flush or increase the size of the priming tower. Another option is to enable the setting to flush into objects infill if it is big enough for it to reduce waste.
Black and white filament are the hardest combination as even tiny amount of black will be clearly visible if it remains still in the nozzle.
What are your flushing values. And when you said flushing is on auto-calc, after setting the colors of the filament you pushed the auto-calc button?
On the other hand, white and black - in addition to maybe specific filaments - are surely not the nicest players. What you could do is to identify the sweet spot for purging (see for example here: Printables )
Other subjects: what is your setting for flush into infill, order of inner wall/outer wall/infill? And lastly, here it even may make sense to have a purge tower again to ensure that any small amount of residue black pigments are cleaned out at the PT.
Which white slot are you actually using? 230 is FAR to little flush volume to go from black to white, it should be around 600+. So I would first increase the 230 to 632 as well and see where it leads. If you aren’t using slot 1 for the white filament, you will have to increase both values further.
Ah, yes, for support filament the value might be fine, I just saw the white color on the screenshot.
The prime towers main function is to reduce oozing and get a cleaner nozzle after a color change or a longer pause. But since it also purges material from the nozzle by printing, a larger prime tower will help the color bleed problem. But mainly I would increase the flush volumes until the color bleed disappears.
As already said, black to white is by far the hardest to get clean lines as even tiny amounts of residue in the nozzle will be visible on the white.
No, that is fine - wanted only to be sure that you hit the button
As Thrawn mentioned, white is one of those colors that is the most unforgiving. Therefor I suggested to first dial in the value (not only by try and error with a full model)