Hey Thrawn one question: I use the 0.4 nbozle (out of the box). Will I maybe get besser results for printing PLA or any other material with the 0.6 or 0.8 noozle?
I have them all here on my desk.
For PLA and if there is no need for bigger faster models, the 0.4 is already well tuned.
In my opinion, for a lot of color changes the 0.4 is better suited as it has less surface where pigments can stuck and in generell you need less material to purge.
Do I need to clean it every now and then?
Short update: Okay guys, overall everything looks very nice so far. I had to do some changes though:
- The cool plate caused a lot of troubles in the 1st layer (error messages and messed up first layers)
- I switched to the Textured PEI plate and the first layer is fine now (yes, I did use glue stick on the cool plate, but still very instable during prints)
Overall the Benchy looks very nice now, even though I have the black colors in between 
Seems like the solution was in deed the “Prime Tower” under “Others” option.
One more thing: I left the front door of the printer open as suggested by Bambu lab (did you know that?). So leaving the front door and top door open (top door will be hard, because most of us have the AMS on it) can also help to stabilize the first layer print.
I will post the final picture, once done, so everyone can see that its possible to print black + white filaments without messing up the white color area in the print with the right settings.
Again, it depends what material you print. But yes, for PLA it is suggested (there is a lengthy thread about that topic in this forum.
But it is not to help layer adhesion - the problem Bambu foresee’s with PLA is that it possible clogs the noozle.
Glad it worked out. And yes, I barely ever use the cool plate too, I prefer high temp plate or textured PEI.
The front door should not have an influence on the color bleeding problem though, it is just to prevent the buildspace from heating up too much in very warm environments. I printed all my PLA with both cover and door closed, but its still winter like here, so no hot environment.
So here are the final results.
Black is black and white is white
I am really happy now. In real life the white is a little bit more white than in the pictures. The light in my room is not perfect to make the white as it is in reality.
And to be honest: Black and White filaments got swapped by the printer a lot of times. Very very often and still no black shades in the white anymore
Summary: Updated values for the flush settings (max = 800 for the transition from black to white) and Prime Tower helped in my case to solve the soluation.
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You can easily make your own cube with Bambu Studio. Right-click the build plate, Add Primitive / Cube, Cut cube vertically or horizontally (make sure “Cut to parts” is checked), color the parts, and print.
Hey, i have a p1s combo and I don’t see the flushing setting that’s on the last picture you sent and help how to get to that setting?
Print this. Has supports for holding the glass plate about 1 inch above the top, but you can put it back down on the lower level in the stand to close the top. Also gives easier access to the extruder for changing tips and maintenance. And, as shown in the pictures, it’s very sturdy.
I have the same problem and I can’t fix it. I have increased the values of the transition from white to black to 900 and doubled the volume of the tower. It still looks like the photo.
I did the opposite with color numbers and also increased the Prime volume x3. Same result, once the black it is use, it prints gray.
You’re only purging 200 going from black to white. This isn’t enough.
You’re purging 800 from white to black, too much. (you could leave it, but I would think a lower number would suffice.)
Think about it like mixing paints. If you add just a little black to white it will turn grey. The more black it will eventually turn black. If you want white you want to be sure there is no black, so purge more.
If you add only a small about of white to black you will get mostly black (depending on the medium). To get grey by adding white you usually have to add more than the other way around, so you can purge less.
Because you have very few walls and no infill the black will show at almost any amount.
TLDR: switch your values, more on black to white and less on white to black.
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I did the reverse too, but I’m going to try it again with another object. I update it here. Thank you.
Im going to print with:
More infill, from 5 to 15%
Default prime tower values.
Default values for all and incresed to 800 from black to white.
I continue with the same problem.
- Flush black to white Setup at 999.
- Double the size and volume of the prime tower.
What else can I do?
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Did you ever find a solution?
(Sorry if already suggested)
Have you tried changing the filament sequence?
If not, use the cog to the right of the build-plate in the preview.
Change the order the filaments are printed for the first and subsequent layers.
Move white to the first position and black second.
Ideally, this will reduce the bleed to the lowest it can go.