And the saga continues, A dryer cabinet

So my wallet was burning a hole in my pocket and I decided my stacks of filament requires a home. I looked at various filament drier options and decided I need more than dry materials, I need a place to get my boxes and spools under control.

So I bought a cabinet. This will fill the bill for me. 180L 3D Printer Filament Storage Cabinet with Dehumidifier, Sealed Metal Cabinet | eBay I can get ALL of what is stacked under my desk plus any more I decide to gather up. Nobody can say I’m all wet after this bad-boy is up and running.

Like everything I get interested in, just throw money at it… :roll_eyes: :laughing:

And yes, I splurged and bought the expedited shipping for $2.99. Big spender! Have a bowl of rice.

That costs more than an A1 mini. Did you get your priority upside down? :slight_smile:

Cabinets like that dont dry filament. They just dry the air. Even then, they tend to be underpowered.

Better to get a dehumidifier for your office on Amazon.

Also…

That style of dehumidifier will increase the humidity in the rest of the room. Molecular sieve dehumidifiers are good, but they are not great for larger spaces and get overloaded quickly. If I was you, I would cancel the order.

No. It will hold an A1 mini… :laughing:

Don’t need a dehumidifryer. Got central air holding down the hugemidity.

At least it will get all this filament off the danged floor and from under my office chair. :rofl:

Actually, I live on a Western arm of the Mojave Desert, so pretty arid here anyway. :hot_face:

So what is the point of buying the cabinet and the post?

If you are just buying a cabinet, then great, but you can find them for much cheaper at IKEA.

Filament drying is a complicated subject.

This cabinet, which comes from China, costs about $80 as a standard cabinet without 3D printing branding. A ready-to-use cabinet heater - just screw it in - professional quality industry standard: $50.

Total amount without 3D printing branding: $130

Just a suggestion, in case anyone wants to get it for half the price. Even though the heater doesn’t do much good anyway… because physics. So, if someone just wants the cabinet: $80

For example, on AliExpress from the same manufacturer, just without the 3D printing branding.

IKEA and 3D printing are also kind of epic. There’s a solution for absolutely every cabinet, shelf, and whatever else you can think of:



Lol.

Setting reasonable expectations is the best way to make sure you are never disappointed.

Those are good dry box solutions, but the only way to really dry filament is heat. Something like a Sunlu S4 is a great investment.

I’ll be really curious how it goes. Since it regenerates desiccant, it could do really well. The minimum humidity they specify is a bit high for me, though. One thing to check is what temperature it regenerates at since they specify molecular sieves. What I’m getting at is they need a high temperature to properly regenerate. If their unit hits that it should be great. If it doesn’t go that high then a different desiccant might be better.

But the regeneration temperature will be important though if it hits spec, it hits spec. I just noticed the housing looks like it’s plastic and sieve regeneration temperature is pretty high.

The principle is sound though.

The reason regeneration temperature is important is it essentially sets the minimum water content which sets the minimum humidity the unit can draw down to.

My plan is for a controlled environment dry storage. Not as a dryer, per sey. If I want to, I’ll print some desiccant boxes to add to it.

My AMS’s hold well at low levels of humidity. And I can always run the dryers in them. I’ll let you know. They draw down to low teens of RH and shut off. I tend to trust that BL knows where is good and won’t Barbeque the filament

“180L 3D Printer Filament Storage Cabinet with Dehumidifier, Sealed Metal Cabinet” < Kinda answers the materials question. Of course, Aluminum foil qualifies as all metal, too. :thinking: If it doesn’t have an external Hydrometer, I’m perfectly capable of ramifying that. In fact, I’d like to.

But in one of the pictures of the interior, there is some form of printed circuit board on the door. Might be a hygormeter. What do you think? s-l1600.webp (1000×1000)

At least I think you actually looked at it, MZip.

I’d like to point out that the last time - two days ago - you explicitly complained to me personally and directly that I wasn’t posting any cheaper alternatives, and asked me to please do so in the future because every dollar matters to you - that even beginners have more affordable alternatives.

So, in line with the your requested two days ago, I’ve now posted some alternatives. So this is 100% in line with your request - which I’ve fulfilled - to expand on a topic with more affordable alternatives.

It’s interesting that you’re reacting this way now, given that it was your own personal request to me. Of course, I have no way of knowing whether your entire mindset will change within a matter of days and money will no longer matter - to the point where you won’t even compare prices anymore.


…and just to be clear, I’m posting this for newbies who stumble upon this topic and are happy to have affordable alternatives without having to pay the “3D printing” branding “tax” of over a hundred dollars.


It’s the same with those “gaming” chairs - you end up paying extra just because they have RGB lights and a gaming logo on them.

I know others do it but I lean to not using desiccant in active systems. The reason is as soon as the desiccant absorbs enough water, it becomes another water source in the cabinet in addition to filament and any leakage.

The solution to that is to keep the desiccant fresh and well below the target humidity in the cabinet but then you don’t need the active dryer part as the added desiccant itself is doing all the work.

Also, even if using it for filament storage and not drying, you want to keep the humidity level in the cabinet at or below the humidity you are willing to tolerate in your filament. If you are able to dry your filament to a humidity reading below 10%, storing the filament in a cabinet with 25% humidity will actually add water back to the filament.

Something else is that the ultimate humidity level the cabinet can achieve will depend on what’s in it. You’ll see the best indicator of how well it can ultimately do by running it empty and seeing what humidity it can hit. (Since it’s rejecting water to ambient air, ambient humidity will also matter to an extent.) Filament, depending on how dry it is, could be giving up water which can hold the humidity up and make it seem at first like it might not be working as well as it may be. I’d be really curious what it can hit empty where we can see just what it is capable of.

I’ve got some questions on that regenerator though. Does it occasionally “flip” and “A/B” two desiccant reservoirs between regeneration mode and air drying mode? Or is the desiccant in a single bigger reservoir that’s kind of on a rotisserie where one side is used for drying air while the other side regenerates and the reservoir slowly rotates? Or some other combination somewhere between?

I could be way off base on this but I’m guessing that drying module might be designed for silica gel which is why I mentioned the regeneration temperature. Sieves can be a strong desiccant but it needs to be properly regenerated to do that. I’m a suspicious type and it wouldn’t surprise me if someone decided if silica gel is good, sieves would be better and sound better in advertising.

If that is true, it might work better with silica gel - but you can’t try that without knowing the regeneration temperature. It could be it truly is designed for sieves and would trash itself with silica gel in there.

And that guesswork all hinges on a plastic-looking housing. If it’s plastic I don’t know if it can hit high enough temps to properly regenerate sieves. The regeneration temperature will clearly tell you what desiccant it was designed for.

Like I said, the basis for that is good. It’s how all sorts of industrial dryers work. That minimum humidity seems a little high to me which is another reason I suspect those sieves. If the regenerator was designed for silica gel beads, it will hit lower humidities on beads because they are fully regenerated at lower temps than sieves. Again, if it was designed for silica gel, sieves will stay “wet” to an extent and the cabinet won’t hit as low of humidity as it might otherwise.

I’m out on a limb harping on the sieves but hopefully it’s clear why. I think that cabinet could do a great job. I’ll be really interested in how it performs and how that regenerator works.

Since I took a close look at the cabinet - or rather, the electronics - maybe this will shed some light on the matter.

  • …and no, user_3353630899, this comment isn’t written specifically for you - before you start acting like a grumpy again - but for people who are interested.

The circuit board on the front is a humidity sensor. It’s not used to set the temperature, but rather to determine the humidity level at which the heater should be turned on via an external trigger.


So it consists of a humidity sensor that controls a trigger output when the humidity gets too high. This signal is then sent to the heater, turning it on and off.

However, it doesn’t have the standard features of, say, a filament dryer: You can’t set a timer. Nor can you set a temperature.


It simply activates a relay that turns the heater on or off. This is the built-in heater that is triggered:


As a side note: There are no fans installed, which of course makes it difficult to circulate the air in such a large space.


So it’s not a dehumidifier in the traditional sense, but rather a way to heat the cabinet.

More than a heater, though. This is that rotisserie I was referring to. It looks like there is some sort of container being rotated above a heater. There’s at least two ways to regenerate like this - pressure swing and temperature swing. This is using temperature swing. Heat the desiccant to drive off water, then let it cool so it picks water back up again.

It does use a heater but the heating looks mostly confined to the regenerator and is intended to just regenerate beads without raising temperatures in the cabinet much. At least it doesn’t look like a design goal to heat the cabinet. But I think a circulation fan would make sense too.

This might be a silly question, but I just can’t figure it out right now… Where does the moisture actually go - there’s no material, no silica gel, to absorb it? Into the room? But then you have the problem that the room gets humid again… My brain is trying to wrap itself around this right now.

So I guess you have to at least ventilate the room well, right…?

…and most importantly, the heater should be under the cabinet, not at the highest point.

You are just transfering moisture. Most of it will go into the surrounding room, some of it will go back into the case. The system is relying on heat differentials to move the air, which is much less efficient than using active air circulation.

More importantly is determining if the system being used is sized correctly for the cabinet for it to have any real effectiveness. Which my gut says it is undersized, but that is just a guess since there is little to no technical information in the Ebay listing.

Edit: I just wanted to double check this listing to make sure I didn’t miss anything. Its going to be hard to make a call on anything given the lack of information. I was looking for information on power draw since that is a good judge for how powerful the system is, but of course no luck.

Ah - this goes back to a conversation @NeverDie and others had about drying filament or beads in a room - how much does it change the room humidity.

First, though, it looks like that regenerator sticks out the back of the cabinet as well as sticks in the cabinet with the desiccant rotisserie kind of right on the border. I think it might rely on convection to do the circulation. As desiccant rotates to the outside it gets heated and the heating generates an air current on the outside that helps sweep away liberated moisture. As the desiccant rotates back into the cabinet it cools and so can pick up more water to repeat the cycle. But inside the cabinet air would be maybe a little more stagnant which is why I agree on a circulating fan for inside.

There is desiccant involved. Molecular sieves is what they advertise. And it just moves into and out of the cabinet carrying and releasing water. The liberated water is released to the room.

But relative amounts are important here. If the cabinet was heated more like a filament dryer, the most water you’d get out of a spool is low single digit grams of water. The air in the cabinet will contain some amount of water that’s around 1000 times less than the filament. So very little water, really. Desiccant is the elephant. 100g of silica gel can hold around 50g of water when maxed out.

So while the cabinet dries the air in it, it’s not putting that much water out into the ambient air but it is putting some. And since the regenerator is moving water to the outside air, the humidity of that outside air will affect the process to some degree. Don’t know how much though. But you are right - as outside humidity rises, the humidity inside the cabinet will probably also rise - some - by the process getting less efficient.

And about mounting location. It actually is in the best location. Here’s why…

Water vapor is light. A water molecule (MW=18) is around half as heavy as an oxygen molecule (MW=32). Nitrogen (MW=28) is slightly lighter than an oxygen molecule but not much. What happens then is water vapor will tend to rise and stratify to some extent. This is one reason why I did the redesign on my air dryer. The original version had humid room air enter at the bottom of the column which meant as it sat, water would try to migrate up. It’s a slow process but I noticed my column was “smearing” a bit and realized it was likely the buoyancy of water vapor causing it.

It would be kind of interesting to set up a sealed column of just air with hygrometers at the top and bottom and see if there is any difference. There should be but I don’t know how big. Brownian (thermal) motion will tend to keep things stirred up but I don’t know how the two effects would balance.

Probably clear as mud but putting the regenerator high in the cabinet is at least the optimum placement. But I still think it might be better with a circulation fan and hang the buoyancy issue. :+1:

They are calling it a desiccant rotor, but I am not even seeing a way for it to rotate.

I am assuming that is a translation error or the graphics are not accurate. (I am leaning towards translation errors)

I bet it’s a rotor. They call it a rotor and show red and blue arrows on the graphic implying rotation.

But the biggest reason to accepting it’s a rotor is that is absolutely a way to do temperature cycling of the desiccant that causes the water pumping behavior to happen.

You can use reversible adsorbents in pressure cycling or temperature cycling strategies (or combine them) to pump or remove water and other materials. It’s done in industry all the time.

If that dryer/regenerator works, it’s doing temperature cycling and would have to rotate to do it since there’s no switchable ducting visible to cycle air through stationary desiccant. Plus little 120V pancake motors are a dime a dozen. They are fairly small. And not being called out explicitly in the diagram makes sense. While an active component, all a motor would do is rotate the desiccant. They might not even want to go into that detail.

But like I say, if it actually works, it has to have some way to rotate desiccant inside and out. May not be a motor. Could be a solenoid with a crank to flip it back and forth, etc. Without ducting and valves to route air back and forth, it has to physically move desiccant into and out of heat and the cabinet. It has to.

Added - there is at least one active drying filament dryer that does an A/B kind of desiccant switching but is still a thermal swing process. I forget who makes it but it works on the same principle except is a full switch between desiccant that’s being regenerated and desiccant being used to remove water from the filament dryer chamber. It’s supposed to be pretty good but was expensive and may still be.