I was looking at the cryogrip plates. In the description it says you can print PLA and PETG with a room temperature bed. However, you have printing on the plate that says PLA 30-50 Deg C and PETG 50-70 DegC.
So this leads to the question- can you truly print at room temperature (20-25 Deg C) or just at a lower than normal bed temperature?
Also, do any of your build plates work well with ASA without using an adhesive? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello sir, our products are launched after rigorous testing. We have not encountered the problem you mentioned so far, so it is indeed possible to print at room temperature. For ASA materials, you need to check whether the parameters of the corresponding board are suitable. You need to wait for us to release new products later. That steel plate is suitable for most printing materials.
Well my Revo from them just imploded. PETG-HF didn’t stick to the plate and I fell asleep as the print started. Half hour later I awoke to a blob that went up over the thermistor and up locked the nozzle in.
I heated it up, got the blob off, ate the socks. Pulled, pushed the nozzle out of the thermistor and cleaned it up.
Plugged it in and nothin. Error about runaway so yeah. Dead. They want $58 for a new one, which isn’t that bad, but I stuck the E3D bambu nozzle in then went shopping.
My new E3D diamondback will be here one day soon. This officially ends my use of BTT products.
Well that sucks. Last night I put the 4 Panda Jets on and using the (very scientific) “hand under the nozzle” test they feel like less airflow than the stock so I guess I’m done too. I was going to ask you something else, did you notice that the tags on the heater wires that show if its a 60w or 40w heater have been cut off the Panda Revos? Like they cut it so the QR code is still there but the rest isn’t. Now they might have done this to accommodate the twists and turns that the wires have to take in a Bambu toolhead, but the fact that I thought I read somewhere Bambu saying that circuit can’t handle a 60w heater and these are supposed to come with a 60w heater is a little fishy. Is it really their 60w heater or their 40w with the tag cut off? Sorry to go all conspiracy theory here.
That’s a great question. I know better than to ask their support.
I’m starting to think there may have been something to Bambu not lending “official” to the Revo. Something to think about.
They went through 10 betas for 1.04, STILL have people with connection and bootloop issues.
The diamondback from E3D wasn’t cheap, but I’d rather have that Diamondback instead of the Revo when the only option is the Panda Revo.
Edit: They still claim the one that comes with it is 60w. So I guess the replacement is as well. I’ve kept the busted one, maybe if I find one cheap one day I’ll splice the ends.
Tell me about it. I’d love to have one but I had to talk myself in to buying some Obxidian ones and I think they are less than half the price of the diamond backs.
Accidentally printed TPU with the Cryogrip build plate today. The plate was totally cooled down and nothing I could do short of damaging the plate would get it off. I had a container of iso profile alcohol nearby so I dribbled a little bit of it on the TPU and the parts came right off. I don’t know if just plain water would have done it but that was a nice discovery.
yeah I made the same mistake. I just assumed you could print tpu on this thing providing you use a release agent, same as pei. However I forgot to spray the plate. My part is foot sized and fills the plate. Honestly I didn’t think it was ever going to come off, wish I’d known or tried the iso trick.
I tried printing to TPU again as an experiment. The TPU was stuck hard to the build plate just like the previous time. I put some water on it and tried to get it free but couldn’t. I added isopropyl alcohol and was able to slowly peel the TPU off the bed. The bed became sticky in the spot where I put the alcohol. After a few minutes, the stickiness went away. I’m not sure if it is degrading the surface or not.
The frostbite plate. I tried taking a picture of the spot on the plate where I used alcohol to loosen the TPU I printed on it but no marks showed up. The alcohol had given it a slightly cloudy finish until it evaporated. But even so, I wouldn’t recommend purposely printing TPU on it.
Out of curiosity, what percentage of IPA did you use—75% or 100%? Also, how did you apply it, and what did you use to wipe it off? Paper towel or cloth?
I ask because it makes a difference. IPA below 95% can have contaminants. The 75% version is common in retail stores, while 95-100% is usually only available online, as it’s less commonly used in medical applications.
If you try the mirror test, soak a cloth or paper towel with IPA and apply it to a pre-cleaned mirror (cleaned with glass cleaner first). After wiping it with the soaked cloth, check if it leaves a film. Some paper towels contain bleaching agents that dissolve in high-grade IPA, creating a foggy residue. The mirror test will highlight this.
What we’re trying to rule out is that there isn’t some sort of chemical reaction occurring with your particular application of IPA. I made this discovery with my specular PEO plates as an example.
This was 91%. I just dribbled a couple nickel sized drops around the TPU and used a cheap paper towel to wipe it off after the TPU was removed. The TPU was released from the plate before I used the paper towel on it.
2 days ago I received 2 X Cryogrip Glacier plates. Long story short I ordered the Frostbite (print PLA at 30deg) before they had the full advertising up, I thought the only difference in the plates was the texture not realizing they had print Temp recommendation differences. So I asked them to change before shipping to Glacier wanting the smaller texture not knowing the plates had temp differences. My aim was to print PLA at lowest possible temp as running 15 printers at 65deg pei plates has more then tripled my elec costs lol Once they shipped the glacier they updated their advertising that Glacier plates for PLA are min temp is 45 to 55 deg. So I was disappointed I made the change. HOWEVER for 2 days now printing 24 hrs a day and with some very small contact to plate tall prints I have been running the plates at 35Deg. and I have to say they are truly at last so far AMAZING !!! My room is cooler !! My Elec meter has slowed down lol and the adhesion is unbelievable. I will be trying soon at 30 Deg. So unless the plates loose their grippiness in a short time these are hands down the BEST plates I have used and i have tried many lol
So in the end I am happy i got them to change the plates as the Glacier can print all materials and I still get the main benefits of no glue unbeatable adhesion with easy print removal (bend and flex and pop) No marks are left at all on the plates to date. Print PLA at 35 Deg. I will be ordering more for the rest of my print farm. And they are cheap compared to say a bambu plate at twice the cost
