Yes, and you also shouldn’t print TPU on it.
BTW, thanks to everyone that has shared their experiences. I also put the Frostbite on order.
Also ordered the full metal extruder gear assembly for the P1S. I’m seeing a small amount of wear on my current plastic gear. I think that’s due to some clogs I had where the gear kept spinning and ground the filament into dust. (was due to a nozzle that eventually failed in a weird way).
Plus cleaning out the clogs in the gear are easier when you don’t have to worry about scarring the plastic with the brush you’re using.
I’ll give both plates a room temperature test once they get here. Right now, the room the printers are in is in the basement and typically sits between 20 and 22 Deg C. That should be pushing the limits I think.
This is probably something you can get away with on a limited basis. Hopefully, the coating where the alcohol was used has kept it’s hardness after the stickiness went away. (Fingers crossed 
)
I’ve stopped experimenting on it with the alcohol and you can’t tell where the TPU was stuck on it or where the alcohol was put. It’s been working great so far.
CryoGrip Frostbite is PLA PETG ONLY
Soap and water clean up ONLY
CryoGrip plates are life changing for PLA. They stick better than any other surface even at 60 F (current temps in our shop overnight until the new Mini-split is installed) We have used PEI, PEO, G10, G11 all the Bambu surfaces. There is no contest.
PETG needs to print with temp to reliably stick, with a well designed model you might be able to print with no heat but I wouldn’t bother.
Bambu’s new Cool Plate SuperTack should probably have the same performance. We have (20) coming in so I can let you know soon.
Frostbite is much better than Glacier for PLA unless you want the fine texture. Glacier is more versatile though.
You mean what’s the usefulness for the 99% of people that print PLA/PETG? A plate you can print every material on is generally not great for any given material.
I got one today for my A1 mini. Totally failed on the first print.
I got mine (Frostbite) mid December - and that thing is a gamechanger.
I mostly print PLA and PETG. For PLA i went with 35°C - and for PETG i tried 45°C. Both stick perfectly. I never had any troubles with PETG on the textured PEI Sheet from Bambu, but with small PLA Parts - or sharp corners with Warping - there were plenty of fails. But not on the Frostbite. Love this thing 
I miss the textured surface from the PEI Sheet - but the smooth surface from the Frostbite is also fine
I always printed PLA on the PEI Sheet with 60°C and with an open lid, because the chamber gets too warm. That problem disappeared. Now my lid/door is always closed. Less noise. Less “airpolution”. Less electricity costs.
And if the power fails (or if you turn off the power with a smart plug after the end of a night job, but the printer has already stopped for some reason), then the print is no longer ruined - but you can simply switch the printer back on hours later, despite the completely cold plate, and continue printing, as the model is still attached to the plate.
Frostbite or Glacier? What filament? What heat bed temperature? What room temperature?
also how many greasy french fries did you eat before you massaged the build plate with your hands? I truly cant believe how so many struggle with such fool proof and simple tools
Own both now. Like them for different reasons.
Frostbite- what I’ve learned. Works well with PLA, PETG, but you do have to heat the bed, but not as much as with the BL Textured PEI.
I don’t consider it have a rough texture though as the transition from the law areas to the high spots is smoother than the textures PEI. You get a shiny finish with non Matte PLA.
Heat bed temperature findings.
NEVER print PLA at the default textured PEI settings. It makes the parts very difficult to remove. Also, do not try it with an unheated bed the first time. Start around 35 Deg C and then go up or down from there. Adhesion IS dependent on room temperature at cooler heat bed temperatures of 30C or less.
As stated, clean with soap and water and WASH BEFORE THE FIRST USE. I actually had the soapy water change color from the stuff it pulled off a new plate. Went from clear to lightly grey.
Great option for PLA / PETG when used correctly.
On to the glacier
Works well with PLA, but I can not go any lower than 45C or I have occasional adhesion issues.
The recommendations for ABS / ASA are to use manufacturer recommended settings for the bed. Not only did this cause problems with part removal, it left discoloration on the bed from the red ABS I used. And the discoloration will not come off.
Will try a temp of 10C below the recommendations and see what happens.
Bambu AMS for TPU was difficult to get off at the recommended settings too.
This plate appears, at least to me, to have better adhesion for engineering filaments than what they claim. Will get back to you with more info after I do more prints. Have some regular TPU and more ABS and ASA prints coming up.
And like the Frostbite, wash before the first use.
TPU on the Glacier-
Using Sunlu 95A (that’s been sitting on my shelf for almost 2 years, but is printing great).
Used the textured cool plate setting and it sets the plate to 40C.
The pieces adhere well at 40C, but need a little more effort than I want. Set the temperature for the cool plate in the filament settings to 35. Happy with those results.
Did you get to the ASA testing? I keep having adhesion problems on my P1S since it can’t reach build plate temperatures above 100°C and was curious if the Glacier plate preformed better than textured PEI at 100°C.
I mean, a lot of people say that adhesion for PLA increases to the point where at 40C its impossible to get the parts off because they stick too well, so personally I think I would start at maybe 85C and work my way up until they adhere well. Also we don’t know how the coating performs at high temperature
Not yet. Too many extra hours at work lately.
Ive been printing with Frostbite plates now on a P1S and X1C. PLA is no issue at 30-40c, sticks like magic. PETG (several brands including PETG-HF from BBL) is a nightmare for warping. To the point im considering just going back to PEI.
Id say 50% of my PETG prints are unsalvagable, and the other I have to post process to deal with warping. I clean with soap and water, I level constantly. I tuned fans for cooling (and in some cases to practically nothing) and its rare I can get a large format print completed with out terrible warping. Small parts or parts that dont have a large plate footprint work fine with PETG.
IMO BTT products do not work well or consistently. I have Revo nozzles, which a few Ive had to replace, their support is terrible, Panda touch that is constantly not working or functions are broken, etc. I just think that I went from printers that were consistently well performing to regularly needing maintained just like all my other non BBL printers.
Would love to know if anyone has consistently good results with PETG-HF on frostbite plates and what they are doing.
Also wanted to mention it’s not a wet filament issue. I dry for typically 48 hours at 55c all filament before loaded into the AMS, and cycle all of the desiccant in the AMSes monthly so it’s always orange.