Yes, and you also shouldn’t print TPU on it.
BTW, thanks to everyone that has shared their experiences. I also put the Frostbite on order.
Also ordered the full metal extruder gear assembly for the P1S. I’m seeing a small amount of wear on my current plastic gear. I think that’s due to some clogs I had where the gear kept spinning and ground the filament into dust. (was due to a nozzle that eventually failed in a weird way).
Plus cleaning out the clogs in the gear are easier when you don’t have to worry about scarring the plastic with the brush you’re using.
I’ll give both plates a room temperature test once they get here. Right now, the room the printers are in is in the basement and typically sits between 20 and 22 Deg C. That should be pushing the limits I think.
This is probably something you can get away with on a limited basis. Hopefully, the coating where the alcohol was used has kept it’s hardness after the stickiness went away. (Fingers crossed 
)
I’ve stopped experimenting on it with the alcohol and you can’t tell where the TPU was stuck on it or where the alcohol was put. It’s been working great so far.
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CryoGrip Frostbite is PLA PETG ONLY
Soap and water clean up ONLY
CryoGrip plates are life changing for PLA. They stick better than any other surface even at 60 F (current temps in our shop overnight until the new Mini-split is installed) We have used PEI, PEO, G10, G11 all the Bambu surfaces. There is no contest.
PETG needs to print with temp to reliably stick, with a well designed model you might be able to print with no heat but I wouldn’t bother.
Bambu’s new Cool Plate SuperTack should probably have the same performance. We have (20) coming in so I can let you know soon.
Frostbite is much better than Glacier for PLA unless you want the fine texture. Glacier is more versatile though.
You mean what’s the usefulness for the 99% of people that print PLA/PETG? A plate you can print every material on is generally not great for any given material.