I have 2 printers. same results on both.
I have printed a lot of ASA maybe 25 rolls, some look good and a lot looks bad.
this pic looks awlful! I have used Bambu, Polymaker, and some others. One brand over another doesn’t make any difference.
I am using the stock Text plate. I use stick glue, I tried some Bambu liquid glue and it didn’t seem to hold very well.
I have printed a lot of PETG, PLA, TPU, no problems with those.
I have printed some Nylon, it wasn’t too bad other than the rounded parts it was rough. I have printed some Polycarbonate and it printed good.
I don’t get consistant results. this pic is about 4 inches in diamenter.
On raiduses I get this bubbles on the radius. rounded parts.
I have my chamber temp 45+
my humidity level in the AMS is 1
I dry my filament at 80C.
I use gyloid infill.
I am hoping someone will see this pic and say they have tried something that helps this.
I have read a lot of posts that have the same problem with ASA.
thanks for taking a look at my problem
Double check that your nozzle size is right on both the printer and the slicer. What temperature are you printing at? Does it print the same in “Silent” mode? (50% slower) The fact that it is doing this on the 2 different printers points more to the slicer or filament.
Have you done any manual calibrations for the filament? The smooth PEI sheet seems to give the most accurate results.
the nozzle is .4mm on both. printing at Bambu default setting, 260
I haven’t tried Silent yet. I’ll try that tomorrow.
I guess no on the manual calibrations, just the Bambu calibration.
I have printed a lot of good parts with ASA, here is an
ASA funnel next to the bad knob
You could also try chamfer edges at the bottom of those prints. Filets rounded edge just does not print that good. Takes a lot of work with settings.
Have you tried the Polymaker ABS profile with calibration flow before printing? That is how i print ABS/ASA.
Also dried till the weight stops coming down. Anywhere from 3 to 6 grams. Usually 4 hours at 80c. Remember you are drying the cardboard also if you are using polymaker products.
While I do not have any experience with ASA, it looks like a cooling problem, i.e. edge curling even at low overhangs.
You can address such problems by reducing the volumetric heat input. Both slowing down in the overhanging areas and reducing local layer height (you can use adaptive layers) are likely to help.
You could also try to tweak your fan settings.
As mentioned, I have no experience with ASA so I can only truly guess from the pic’s and my past experiences with curling on PETG.
yes, I can confirm the fan is running and when I toggle it off and on that it is working.
I am printing a different part out of ASA and it looks good so far
the only reason I am using ASA is this is for a boat, so it will be exposed to sunlight. the other reason is for strength.
I have printed this design in a smaller size
my son says I should print it faster,
I tried printing it at .28mm layer height and make not difference. I used the variable layer height and it made no difference.
Are they support scars ? (bottom right (support imprint left in / on the first layer after support ends , something ive noticed on occasion when using normal grid
on the top left in the my pic is the top of the knob and no support on the sids where the bubbles are at. the top right in my pic shows the bottom where the support is and it looks fine.
@user_3830817761 what @JonRaymond suggested improves and hope that is the end of it , but from originally what you showed you have two issues one i think i see it in you Last ‘good’ print . AND your Funnel for ASA is also not good apart from the ringing there are artifacts pointing to flow and K issues
Flow and K are not well calibrated
Temperature in the chamber and uneven cooling - chamber need to be preheated very well ideally 110C Bed temp and 20 minutes at least soak time and do not open the door when cools down
ASA - no AUX or PART fan OFF , minimum to no fan in general here is some compromise
Max speeds bellow 150mm/S
reduce acceleration also helps
Well last but not least insulate the chamber with blanket on top helps to keep around up to 60C
Check some of the ASA warping and temperature related threads have a good hints , but combined with 100% infill and bad flow and K then the problem is increased
And sometimes good prints is very often when the printer was warmed or outside temperature was higher or the doors was closed )
I also print parts for the boat , and most of the time use ASA , but lately more often PETG. Also i printed low friction blocks and spinnaker guards but that is from PC
Also CF materials is worth looking like i did my tiller stopper from PAHT-CF( ePA12CF) and lately tried ePACF( ePA6CF) stronger compare to ASA soon will try PETGCF
PETG has no practical problems with UV
PC on the other hand have some still testing to what level
PA12 - great UV resistance and with the CF part should be ok embedded in material
PA6 also UV resistant
note that PAHT-CF brand dependent can be PA12 or PA6 i think PA12 is better for most parts
FOR STRONG BOAT PARTS YOU NEED GREAT LAYER ADHESION
Which i found that needs higher temp, less or no cooling and slower print speeds , and some materials are just easier than others like PETG vs ASA for layer adhesion
The actual strength depends ASA is stronger but in some print cases is vice versa
In this print does not matter
EDIT:
For Most boat prints i do very rarely will go above 30%-40%Infill a few with 100% , but i do increase the outer walls to 6-7 and TOP and bottom layers 5-7,
Low friction blocks i do so many walls that actually equivalent to 100% infill but better. also sometimes change 100% infill every so many layers or using some of the cubic/pyramid type of infills for strength in every direction
Thank you for you insight on this.
I have checked my fan settings.
I have read a lot of ASA problems.
I can’t find how to calibrate the K and Flow. it seems way over my head on that.
Here is a pic of a good representation of what problem I have
the roughness is on a top flat layer, the part set on the left side of the bed, next to the chamber fan, which should be off all the time on this.
this is consistant with the roughness on larger parts, mostly on 1 side of the part.
I priinted this last night and my chamber was 45C
today I have the bed on pre heat 120 and have another small heater inside the chamber warming up.my chamber temp right now is 50.
If you notice at te bottom of the part is some of the what I call bubbles on the radius, like what is on the other pics I posted. this part had 6 perimiter and 60@ Cubic infill.
I am getting ready to print again and by nature I want to turn the temp down on the nozzle from 270 to 260, but you commented that stronger parts need higher temp, Noz or chamber or both?
Thanks!
Printing an upward facing radius will cause issues.
The rough top surface is often caused by a part warping up. 6 wall perimeters are going to put heavy warping stresses on a part. Try using less wall perimeters. 3 is generally optimal and use modifiers to increase walls in specific areas that need more strength.
in the next pic i am concerned about the area where the support is, those are holes where I glue cables in and I don’t want that area to break, that is why I have been doing the extra perimeters and more infill.
I thought I slowed the speed down on this part but I don’t think I did.
I still have the bubbles on the chamfer.
)
