Having weird top layer problems and not sure what to do next.
Ive changed extruder gears, nozzle, have done a manual bed tram, manual and lidar calibrated.
Probably wasted 2 rolls of filament and havent been able to use my printer. Have had a ticket open with bambu since 10/13 and still have to find a solution as they just keep repeating the same thing over and over.
They sent me a warrantied extruder gear set, TH board and an extruder motor which I have yet to switch the board and motor out.
Ive tried slowing my speed down by half and my results look exactly the same. Have cranked up the flow rate all the way up to 1.07 on polyterra and still has under extrusion. Filament has been dried 6 and 12 hours, and calibrated with the generic and Overture pla profile. Happens with all filament brands I own, Bambu, Sunlu, Polymaker and Overture. Only settings I’ve changed is infill type to gyroid and the one time I halved the speed.
Should I replace the motor and board is that going to be more wasted time?
No ironing on. Trying to not use it as ive seen very good top layers without it.
Do I change flow rate with line width? Even with a flow of 1.07 it still has gaps. I have been suggested to print slower but at 120mms it looks the exact same. 50mms looks different but doesnt help as it still looks terrible.
Based on the visuals you supplied–thank you BTW–this doesn’t look like your classic under extrusion issue. Sure, you could increase the flow rate to something ridiculous like if 1.07 is where you have it now, try out 1.5 or even 2.0 and see if it affects the output.
I guess there are two questions that come to mind that I did not ask. It sounds like you’ve done all the maintenance required but may I assume that you wiped down the carbon rods with IPA? Also, are you running this through an AMS and if so, have you tried a direct feed to take the AMS out of the equation and simplify the feed?
I would try ironing nevertheless just to see if it produces a different outcome. However, I recognize you’re looking for a solution and ironing is obviously a band-aid in this scenario.
Yeah printer only has 200 hours, been this way since 0 hours. Someone suggested I print hotter so I did a temp tower and increased to 230°. My calibrations look totally different than 220°. Yes its through ams but is the same with or without it. Does this flow rate test look too hot? None of them are really smooth compared to when i use 220°. Im trying to make my own profile. First picture is pass 2 with a starting point of 1 (-3 would be .98) Second picture is pass 1 (0 would be .98)
That clearly shouldn’t be happening, and I’d start by running a temperature tower test. This issue seems to be a combination of too low a temperature, which prevents proper flow break-off, and too high a flow rate. While I usually run a temp tower only for new filaments, it’s time-consuming, so here’s a quicker approach: re-run the test and print just the 0, -1, -2, and -3 tiles at the extreme temperatures listed on the product label. This saves filament and provides a faster check. Start by running the test without changing the current settings to confirm the stringing issue is reproducible. If it doesn’t reproduce, you’ll need to investigate other factors. Once you confirm the issue, test with the extreme temperatures (e.g., 190°C and 220°C, if that’s what’s on the spool).
I upped the temperature 10° so now its 230° from 220° happens at 220° as well. The temperatures are for speeds of 60mms which im printing a lot faster than that. That little extra piece happens from time to time, like it gets stuck to the nozzle from the poop chute. Happens with every brand of filament ive used even without changing a thing.
Right there is a red flag that one shouldn’t ignore. There is no reason why this should be happening.
When doing troubleshooting, you really need to think outside the box. If the spool says 220 try running at at very extremes like 250 or even 260. It won’t hurt your printer. If you ever noticed, the filament loads at 250C which Bambu considers a safe melting point for all filaments, so why not try 260 for testing purposes? The point is to test the extremes, not 5-10C increments, you’ll be at this forever. When you test extreme values, you will see much greater visual differences. Then from there you can move up and down knowing which direction to compensate from.
Look, I feel like we are all over the map in this thread. I feel like we are chasing more than one issue here. I suggest it’s time to get back to basics. If we can’t get the simplest of items such as a clean nozzle wipe, then it’s time to take a step back.
Have you run a first layer test at 200x200x0.28? What were the results? Did you try running that test using both the default pattern and circular pattern? That too will yield very basic visually obvious results with very little time and filament.
It has no deal to pull that much from the chute. What are the cooling settings for this filament?
Besides, there is no point to be near the chute at that point. That is a uni colour print straight forward.
Default to generic profiles, overture has a tuned profile yet i dont get good results while using it. Starts from the bottom layer and nozzle drags it around. From intial loading of filament. Has to go to the chute at some point.
None of profiles work for me. I use 4 different brands of filament. Sunlu looks decent using bambu profile but overture, polymaker and bambu have problems even with their matching profiles. Ive calibrated flow and pressure advance and the tests come out good but then i print and look terrible.
I dont get the making your own profile. Bl calibration is straight forward, flow and pressure advance. Orcas is confusing because it says to start with temp but i see start with flow or K first. Idk where to start anymore.
