I finished the max flow rate test and calculated 14mm³/s which is even above the default value for the Bambu PETG profile. This was at 260C temp. The pressure advance was set to 0.065 and the flow ratio default value at 0.95 looked good. I am going to print the temp test tower again but from 260C to 270C. All these test prints looked great. I think the object I am having fail is just difficult due to have lots of overhangs because of the threads. It’s a good stress test.
Curious, have you tried bumping up the cooling? Or changing the bridge setting to a lower value? On the bridge setting, maybe using 30mm/s instead of 50mm/s could help stabilize the filament that’s being bridged. Just keep an eye out, because going too slow will just cause the filament to droop too.
One other thing, I saw a thread talking about how their blue filament was inferior to their other colors (PLA). Seems to make sense that the blue coloring could affect some performance factors. For example, my Max Volume test ran 20mm3 perfect. I didn’t go any higher, but it was no better or worse than 15 or 10mm3. In your test, I can see it was starting to deteriorate at 20mm3. Not bad, but definitely out of the window. It’s possible the blue coloring is a factor.
BTW, my black Bambu Lab PETG has been great. No complaints since my first try, since then its been great.
Much better results at 265C using Orca. I also slowed down inner and outer walls to 100 mm/s based on azCubs76 and I set the cooling overhang threshold to 5% like just4memike suggested.
There is one string at the top left of the image and also an imperfection along the outer perimeter. Overall I can live with this. Good to know about blue PLA being a pain. Maybe the pigment causes issues.
I attempted to print a little desk organizer with some large flat surfaces and got a lot of clumping. I was using 15% gyroid infill which does results it large gaps. When I attempted to use rectilinear I had a lot of clumps at the interfaces of all the infill point. I may have to give up on this filament.
First: I admit I didn’t read the whole thread.
But I found out the filament preset for the bambu basic petg has strange values for the cooling fan: It runs between 10 and 40% regarding to layer times. In my opinion this is too low - generic petg has a min value of 40% and a max of 90%, which I use for all other petg. Please alter these values (in filament preset under cooling) and give it a try.
I need to get petg down to 18% humidity for flawless prints. I use the stock bambu slicer setting and optimal default print speed. For me the gyroid infill creates wall blobs so I need to use something else for smooth walls. I use a filament dryer/spool and get the petg down to 18% as mentioned, then I reset the dryer timer snd run the actual print with the dryer on. It takes 6 hours for the dryer chamber to get back up to 40% humidity once its off.
Also when you heat up filament with a heated dryer it expands and becomes more porous, so if you turn the heater off in a humid environment the petg is going to cool down and draw in humidity from the air. Consider that before printing.
understand something, Bambu labs are great mechanical and mechatronic engineers, but they seem to understand very little about printing. I have had the same with their OWN pla matte, they can’t even put the right setting in their profiles for their materials on their printers, the utter incompetence! So I then turned to PETG as I have loads of the stuff and it has been awful, ok so not their petg but I started with their settings, I have now used about 500g of material to work it out. you need to reduce the flow rate and possibly turn the cooling fan up if you have it on low.
I have just printed a test peice at 5mm^3/s and it came out perfect, 8 was too high, forget the 10 they set. I will now try the same with what is left of that expensive PLA that has been mostly wasted because bambu labs don’t know anything about printing, only how to make motors move.
I thought creality was bad, my god how wrong I was!
I have had virtually flawless results with both eSun PETG and Polymaker PETG. I have been using both for a while (and Polymaker PETG since it was originally released) and both are great so far on my X1C. Yes, it needs to be dry to print well, and I always put it in my drier before big print jobs. (Taulman TECH-G is also something I have had great success with in the past).
The Bambu PETG is a disaster IMHO. I tried printing some cardboard spool adapters for my AMS, and they were massively under-extruded and pretty much fell apart. I ran the Orca calibrations on it and got the following results:
(Note that the 260º first layer is an experiment based on this thread. I have not tried that yet - my old value was 255.)
With these settings, it prints decently. The Orca max volumetric speed test topped out at 14 which works as long as you don’t have any overhands or bridging. With the latter, you need to drop down the speed (plus the usual overhand settings). This is temperamental filament. I’m currently looking for non-critical projects to burn through my 2 rolls, then never again. Much less hassle to use eSun or Polymaker.
The BBL PLA basic works well, but then PLA is harder to mess up. I was going to try the BBL ABS, but after this experience, I decided not to.
I am currently favoring eSun filaments overall. I’ve always had good experiences with them, and they publish recommended settings for the X1C (and many other printers) which give you a far better starting point than the generic profiles. And they mostly come in plastic spools .
Thanks for all the input. I will say that the Bambu support team has been helpful and responsive. I also have had success with white and black eSun PETG without needing to change any settings. Cbabbman had success with black and white Bambu PETG so maybe the issues are limited to the blue. I’d be interested to see if anyone has tried other Bambu PETG colors. I purchased a dryer and have the blue in there right now.
Print quality definitely improved when I increased temp to 265, set max volumetric speed to 10, and changed cooling to 40-90 with the aux fan set to 30%.
We’ll see if it improves even more once I dry it at 50C overnight. I will probably go back to eSun once this spool is through.
Noticing your various postings recently, I have been coming to the conclusion that either
you received a defective machine (then please return or exchange it) or
the isssue is not within the machine but sitting right in front of it.
In any case, please spare us your rants. Considering the issues you are claiming to experience seem to be extremely uncommon, I would rather blame yourself of being incompetent than all of the BL engineers. If you really have such issues than either try to get assistance while behaving in an acceptable way or get rid of the printer and stop trolling. Insulting each and everyone around you will not get you anywhere – except maybe out of this community.
I’ll recap for you, their printer, their plate, even their glue stick and material and the files that come on the printer sliced by them, don’t print out, it seems to always use the first AMS slot so no idea what material was intended. I got an awful benchy that did stick by setting the printer to quiet and overriding the plate temperature from 35 to 50. Any material they supply that has the material selected by the tag does not stick, when I check the settings I find them a bit odd and change them to the more common settings I am familiar with and it sticks. I just managed to get the scraper handle to print but the cover for it fell off the bed.
What people having problems with prints need to understand is that Bambu are specifying the mechanical properties of the machine, it will will move with the required precision at those speeds. But that is just the machine, that has nothing to do with the material properties. I have just calibrated my own PETG having had worse results than the person posting, I have worked out what works and things are now printing fine. Having had the same issue with a BL material I conclude that the material settings are wrong.
Your last post sounded a lot more constructive and reasonable, don’t you think? It certainly is a solid foundation for further discussions whole the other ones certainly were not. Let’s keep it that way, ok?
The pre-sliced models in the internal memory are for PLA – at least the few I bothered printing (they all turned out fine, btw). Trying to print those in PETG or anything else will certainly result in failure. Those models are available for download and slicing them yourself for any material.
For me and apparently almost everyone else, the combination of Bambu printer + Bambu PLA + Bambu plate + Bambu glue + Bambu slicer + Bambu default profiles is working fine out of the box. If it does not with your machine, there might very well be something wrong with it, even if you are able to cover the fault with modified settings.
Regarding Bambu’s „PETG Basic“ I actually am getting mixed results myself yet and slightly worse ones than with PETG from Material4Print. Still far better than what has been shown here by the TE. But, hey: it is a very young company and a brand-new filament. I think what we received by Bambu within one year from their market entry is remarkable and much more than one could have expected. Most of the competition is not able to deliver that after being on the market for many years. They are still learning and will certainly improve – hardware, filament, profiles, support. Not being perfect yet in every regard does not make them morons or worse.
To sum it up: I am getting close to perfect results with all kinds of PLA out of the box. Some tinkering did not improve much. PETG is almost perfect as well with some 3rd party transparent PETG, very good with regular PETG from the same company, and fair enough with Bambu’s own, brand-new stuff. Considering what a pain in the a** PETG was with my Ender 3 & 6, it still is a big leap forward. Let’s leave them some room for improvement and keep the criticism constructive.
For me the Textured PEI plate works perfectly with my P1P. I have also some other PEI plates from Aliexpress, which have a little bit better adhesion and works better for small high models.
I had purchased eight colors of PETG when Bambu first released it but I had not used it until last night. I was getting worried, after reading this thread, that I had wasted my money.
So last night I took the so-called purple, and dried it for 3 hours and in my print dry Pro 3 and printed out two Benchy’s. Aside from changing the speed on the second print so that it would have a uniform look on the outside, I did not change any BL PETG settings.
I’m starting to see what everybody on here meant about the petg not printing well. I opened up two more colors today, white and blue, and I’ve been having a heck of a time with the blue. Every time it prints it’s all spaghetti-ish.
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