Fi you try to by renaming the file ?
=> myfile.gcode => mygile.gcode.png
Cheers for that DzzD and I tried it but as it could not tell the size of the file it still would not accept it!!!
Hi mate, how do you do this conversion??
Thanks
Anyone seen this YouTube video? certainly raises some interesting points!!!
OK, so TL smoothers = bad. It does not like it at all. Could be that the pin outs are different, but I don’t know which of the 4 wires to swap around. That is outside my scope of knowledge on how s**t works. I knew it once I think a year and a half ago, but I have slept, gotten Covid twice, and took a few hits to the head since then.
If someone want’s to figure that out I can try again.
I am annoyed that I had to breach the " VOID" sticker to replace the failed CPU fan.
Hard call on the slop in the Y axis. With the printer on and the motors locked, it takes a fair amount of force to move it and you can and will get movement in X and Y.
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The artifact he is tolding about is exacly the one I have opened a post about :
Unfortunatly seems that all my screenshot & pictures are gone…
I was pointing the problem of light-angled appearence of Bambulab prints
That’s one good thing we’ve got going for us in the USA, those stickers basically mean nothing. It’s also funny that Bambu specifically says to remove the warranty-voiding screw to install the included P1P upgrades.
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The fix in the other thread was padding between the head plastic moulding and the bearing. It would appear to be a bearing lose in the head not a bearing lose on the rod problem.
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Here’s a link to the official guide, let me know if you have any questions
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Good that you had a a good laugh. Do you really think that a provducer of any country would think about and amend this type of production thing just for deliveries to the US ? Secondly, whilst this may not be valid for certain countries, it does serve a prupose wjhich is holding people back from simply opening hardware, checking, fooling around, thereafter claim to the producer that hardware does not work and call it “warranty”. Even if this sticker does not mean anything in the US, I would still follow the advise and ask the producer first. Secondly, you have agreed to SECTION 18 - GOVERNING LAW
These Terms of Service and any separate agreements whereby we provide you Services shall be governed by and construed in accordance with the laws of UK."
The Void stickers will be eliminated in future batches, to eliminate any confusion.
When discussing various topics, please do it in a decent manner.
Thanks
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So there is an employee looking at the forum. Nice! Maybe we could have an actual solution to the problem instead of discussing sticker issues ?
I am late to the party.
God knows how many filament wasted trying to sort this out.
I have been mainly active on Discord so here is my 2 cents:
This is Polymaker ASA out of the box and after some tweaks.
My main problem is the X-axis, the hotend seems to get dragged on that CF rod creating a hell of a vibration.
I MUST clean my CF rod before each print or will have X-axis ringing for sure
Also, there are filaments that show more ringing than others.
This is eSun PLA+, after a lot of tweak, this is the best quality I can have atm.
Same everything, the second print I did not clean the CF rod with isopropyl alcohol and microfiber. You can see the X-axis artifacts.
There is no solution but workarounds:
- You MUST run SoftFever fork of BambuStudio. Only it allows you to set PA and better control the speeds. Only after running its PA and flow calibration that is now built-in the slicer, is that things improved
- Slow things down. X1C speeds will take you nowhere if you are after quality, period. Also, the parts are printed too weak.
- Listen for resonance coming from your CF rod. I must clean mine before each print a lot if I wanna keep the quality high.
- This is my current profile and the only one for everything which allows me a somewhat decent quality prints.
This is eSun PETG
This is Polymaker PETG, not bad, but not great either
So at this moment:
- eSun PLA+: okay following the above
- Polymaker Matte PLA: prints beautifully
- Polymaker ASA: okay but not great
- eSun PETG, after 2 years printing it without problems, I can no longer print it
- Polymaker PETG: okay, not perfect but okay
If you wanna top solid quality, you will have to tweak. Countless weeks wasted to get to the point above.
You guys have enough to play around now.
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So it’s a design issue. I just got mine. Do you guys recommend I return it ? It seems to be quite a pain to get good result for 1500$… Really disappointed and I was about to buy a bunch of them for students maker spaces…
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I have seen some users print with very high quality prints and no ringing.
So I am unable to tell what happened with the unit from users like me.
If you just got yours I suggest you to use it, if your unit has the same problem, you will know. Contact the support if that is the case.
Now, to make something crystal clear, people have different standards when it comes to 3d printed models quality.
Some users are happy with everything as it is.
X1C is not my first printer (E3V2, MK3S+) so I have a lot of pain on the resume until they got tuned haha, it is a lot easier for me to see something that does not match the quality I expected.
I cannot talk about other users.
If you have problems: Sign In - Bambu lab
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I also started with cheaper printers so I know a problem when I see one…
Well I have a ticket but they are ignoring me so far. Wait and see…
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Having to clean the rods every print leads me back to the CF rods need some sort of lubrication for the print head instead of obviously leaving deposits = wear on something. I see this on equipment that I work on, and once it starts and the clearance between the moving parts exceeds a certain point, then it’s a replacement matter as lubrication gets scraped off and the slop in the component is excessive.
Now to find out what lubrication is on the market that will not collect dust, and is CF safe and safe for the housing material is and give that a try.
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Graphite lubricant is probably the only option, but I don’t know if anyone has tried it yet.
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Isn’t it pretty risky? what if graphite dust ends up on the PCBs?
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Low risk since the electronics are enclosed
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