I’ve been using the printer for 1 weeks now. I used the Cool plate with glue stick for PLA, and the Engineering Plate with glue stick for PETG. My issue is with bed adhesion in the initial printing movements. What I mean is, when the first layer starts, the first 1-2 mm of the line doesn’t stick to the bed, but the rest of that movement sticks quite well. If the head moves to a different island, the same thing happens. As a result, if the island is large, the print succeeds, but small holes or small islands may fail. On my old printer I used PEI sheets and cleaning with IPA between prints ensured a perfect adhesion, so gluestick is new to me. My observation is, the print has more difficulty adhering to the plate if there is no glue on that segment, which is odd, as I thought the reason for applying glue is to prevent very strong adhesion to the plate. Any suggestions?
Wash the plate with dish soap and hot water. Rinse it clean and take care to not touch the build surface. the oils from your hands create a lot of adhesion issues. This is probably why areas with glue stick adhere better than areas without as the glue stick is covering up the oily areas.
Bambu has a wiki article about adhesion and plate care.
I use a skirt as insurance against this problem. That way it fails on the skirt, which doesn’t matter, and will have good flow already going when you start the first layer of your model. It works better than just the purge line alone.
I can offer some advice. Pressing too close to the plate can cause adhesion problems.
Try changing the plate temperature. For PLA, the recommended temperature is around 50-60°C, and for PETG - around 70-80°C. Make sure the surface of the plate is clean and free of any glue or dust.
That was not my understanding. The skirt I’m fairly certain was a descendant from Slic3er or one of its first derivatives and was in place to assure initial filament flow. For Bambu Studio, this was of course replaced with the calibration strips on the X1 series and the prime stripe on the P1 series. Or at least that’s what I’ve been reading.
Soap and hot water in a sink, clean paper towel (lint free). PETG can be finicky, sometimes I need to raise the bed temp to 75c to get first layer right if the printer/room is cooler.
My experience with the skirt on my old printer was also a tool for priming and not for ensuring bed adhesion. My old printer required an extrusion of at least 10 cm of distence before the filament came out of the nozzle, so a skirt was a must but in my case it won’t really help if the issue is related to bed adhesion as a lack of filament isn’t the problem here.
A feedback: Yesterday, I changed to PEI plate from Bambu and the adhesion seems to be much better. This is similar to my experience on my old printer, so I should probably stick to it (literally ). The only issue here is that the X1C is enclosed, so the chamber can get too hot for PLA and create a clog. Yesterday, with 55 degrees bed temperature and 220 degrees nozzle temperature, the chamber reached 40 degrees and there wasn’t any issue, but I assume this is the limit and I may need to open the printer’s door to allow more cooling (which I really don’t want to do dur to noise and risk of hitting the door(.
I’ve tried it both ways. For PLA, I haven’t noticed any difference whether the printer is open or closed. I’ve never had the X1C clog on me, not even once. Then again, I’m using a 0.6mm nozzle, so maybe that has kept me out of the danger zone.
I am having the same issue with my A1 printer, however, for me, it is whenever the print is very close to the edges of the plate. I cleaned the surface with alcohol and a microfiber towel many times and it still persists. My printer is fairly new and I do not say any bends or warps in the bed on it and the surface it is on is very flat. So I am not sure what is causing this issue.
Anyone else have this edge adhesion issue on the A1?
please note it is NOT the filament as I use the same filament on other prints or smaller sized prints and it prints just fine.
I know it’s not to everyone’s liking but I use the textured PEI plate on both my X1C and P1S and have never had any issues. I apply a layer of glue and it’ll last for around 10 prints before I need to wash and reapply.
I found the cold/engineering plates to be a lot less forgiving and easier to damage if you miss a section with glue.
There was a discussion recently where a user was having an issue using print by parts where there was a color change before the next part and there was mixing of colors.
The skirt doesn’t work in this case because the skirt goes around all objects at the very beginning, not per part. The solution was to use a brim around each part, but make the brim separation at least a couple of millimeters so it acts as a skirt instead.
Oh, I think I see what you mean. It’s the case where you’re printing parts in sequence rather than altogether, one layer at a time. Good one! Nice tip!
I highly recommend washing your plate with dish soap and hot water. IPA just doesn’t cut it and pushes around the oils from your hands. I used to ignore people saying this, because I figured there’s no way IPA plus a fresh microfiber isn’t doing the job, but it’s night and day. I’m too lazy to wash my plate between every print, so I use Hotpoly3D Print Bed Surface cleaner that works great and lasts forever. Litterally haven’t had any adhesion issues since using soap or this stuff.
I am very mindful when removing, that build plate cleaner is great too, just a quick spray or 2, let sit, and wipe off with microfiber. I have 2 creality cr6s sitting in storage kinda because I couldn’t get anything to stick, no matter how much I cleaned the plate with IPA lol. Had them running klipper, printing pretty quickly with great quality, but got so frustrated trying to get stuff to stick that I gave up on printing for about a year. I took the SD card out of one and couldn’t figure out where to pick up. So I picked up a bambulab, threw the crealitys in storage. After I ran into the same problem on the bambulab I finally started actually cleaning my build plates, PROBLEM SOLVED, and kinda feel bad those printers are sitting in storage because I had refused using soap and hot water lol.
). The only issue here is that the X1C is enclosed, so the chamber can get too hot for PLA and create a clog. Yesterday, with 55 degrees bed temperature and 220 degrees nozzle temperature, the chamber reached 40 degrees and there wasn’t any issue, but I assume this is the limit and I may need to open the printer’s door to allow more cooling (which I really don’t want to do dur to noise and risk of hitting the door(.
