Which 3D printer are you using to print those materials?
By the way, in reference to PEEK, PEKK, what’s the next closest high performance material that an X1C actually can print? Anyone here looked into that?
I done PPS on the X1 but it’s not great. It’s a hobbyst printer not made for making real parts.
Home I got a Gearbox HT2. Work we just got 4 Gearbox CF2’s in my lab.
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There is no way you will print anything exotic like PEEK or PEKK on any of the current BambuLab printers. It really depends on what you are trying to achieve. Are you looking for stiffer or more flexible parts? Whats the strain you want to put on the part? There is no one-fits-all answer here.
You should get away with some PPS filaments on the X1C, but I would suggest picking an X1E for that since it has been adjusted to meet the extrusion temp of most PPS filaments.
You will likely find all wanted properties in either PC, PA6(Stiff in dry environments), or PA12 (Better in moist environments). But feel free to share your requirements.
And keep in mind that price is likely a significant part of your consideration. I guess you would not like to print everything in some overkill filament that costs 500/kg.
You realize that most “real parts” are made of PC, ABS, or PA, right?
All of them are materials that the X1 Series and the P1S are capable of printing without issues.
“big” Industry uses a lot of PEEK for prototypes
Good on 'ya. If my google search came up right, a Gearbox HT2’s asking price is something like $150K?
I did a bit more looking and found FunMat HT, at around $6K asking price:
I’m guessing there’s probably nothing which can do those high temps at the X1E price point though, or else people would simply buy that instead of an X1E.
There are various unofficial mods for Bambus that enable higher temps.
I wish my filament stack looked half as good as yours.
I am still using large IKEA boxes. Those individual sealed containers (PrintDry?) seem helpful to keep a tidy space and dry filament. Yet, the price exceeds my hobby budget.
Great setup… congrats.
It is also a great picture to show when someone calls me addicted to 3D printing.
I really like PVDF Kynar. Sold by Nile Polimers.
PVDF
It does sell for $250/Kg. but prints in the X1C or P1S great. PEEK is pretty close to that, so not much price difference.
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I have X1 Carbon with AMS and my go-to is PETG on Engineering plate. I never dry filament. I like PETG because no glue or chemical on plate is required. I do wipe clean with alcohol just before every print. More than 98% of prints are fine with default settings. Just wipe the plate and print. I’ve used USD $15 to $28/Kg filament and all seem to print the same. I like Bambu filament for rfid but buy when on sale for $18; could buy refills for $14 but don’t want hassle of spooling. I do some PLA on PEI plate without glue, again just alcohol and print.
Not even remotely close to peek that’s what hobbyist say when they wanna play engineer. Nice try
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Yeah I can get the hotend on the X1 to hit 450c. Still won’t print peek. Dosent have the bed heat or chamber temp to do it.
Last year I printed 384 spools of PEEK, 114 CF PEEK and 30 ESD PEEK. I’m very familiar with PEEK. And be careful online. Some people like to use fillaments with a color that resembles higher end materials for the “cool points”.
Here. The worst nylon you can buy. I think it’s like $250 a spool thermally conductive and the absolute worst mechanical propertys you will find. This still is slightly less brittle than the virtual foundry metal fillaments. On the spool and printed. Stuff sucks I hate itm
Chamber temp is really easy, just buy a PTC heater and a fan and control it manually. I could do that myself.
Im sure there’s upgrades for the heat bed, but it also seems like something most electromechanical engineers should be able to do, the same way they get the nozzle up there by replacing the ceramic heater and nozzle temperature sensor. With the forthcoming 3rd party firmware it should become even easier.
I have been looking for that filament for a long time because of its thermal conductivity. But the cost, plus transport and customs, for testing purposes is unreasonable. I thought that the base was TPU instead of PA.
Why do you like it the most, especially as a go to filament?
I use Polymaker PLA, in a nice dark blue.
But I’m also used to a print farm of Prusa Mark 4s, which we have used since PLA works.
The thing about filament that I unfortunately learned the hard way with some garbage Makerbot MethodX printers, is that filament must be kept dry and in a good climate.
I use resealable Mylar storage bags, and for filament drying, I just put spools in a heated vacuum chamber, with a bunch of desiccant. The dry filament is not only beautiful, but it causes fewer issues and fewer jams in the X1.
For a more exotic material, I use Nylon 12 Carbon Fibre, from Makerbot. Not actually for anything other than Makerbots, but I just wind the spool onto an empty one and stick it into the AMS.
Nylon 12 Carbon Fibre prints beautifully, and you can never see the layer lines, it blends smoothly, and is very strong.
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Printdry. These are not the vacuum ones as I don’t believe they could really maintain a vacuum for long, they are the cheaper regular ones. They are airtight, which is all I need. Better than leaving filament in the open.
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So, as you can see, I have each container numbered, and I have a spreadsheet of all the numbers, type and color. I also put a label on each with color and type. It works well and I always know what I have.
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Good engineering material, but no, not PEEK, but also does print in most printers costing under $1000. PEEK can’t say that.
PEEK Can be easily machined, ASA doesn’t do as well due to the fact that it cannot handle the friction heat as much.