BIQU Cryogrip Pro warning!

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I’m running prints on a Glacier right now (fine textured blue plate). Have used it on a P1S and A1. Best print surface I have for PLA so far. Printed long pieces with a filament that always warps with such parts on the BL and other plates. No warping. Printed some very small pieces for a project I’m working on and they came out perfect thanks to the extra stickiness. Printed a tall piece that branched and didn’t need supports, but had a small base. Tried w/o a brim as a test. Perfect print. Fails on standard plates w/o a brim.

Prints still have to be popped of or pried off when the plate cools, but it doesn’t require any unusual force. ABS and TPU are next on my list to test.

I have (whenever they get more in stock), the Frostbite with the coarse texture coming. At the price, I figured it was worth a try. Going to run it through room temperatures tests on PLA and PETG, then go up in 5 degree increments from there if there are adhesion problems. My print room is running at 20C right now, so room temperature is going to be a challenge for that plate.

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Out of stock now until at least Nov 22nd. Seems to be popular. Will make one comment compared to the Cryogrip Glacier plate I’m testing. It’s more expensive and only for PLA and PETG. The comparative Cryogrip Frostbite plate I ordered is still on hold because of being out of stock.

The 3D hub plate mentioned in the link to Olias’ post also prints many more filament types. And again, it’s cheaper.

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I have the Glacier and it’s for all types of filament and is much better than the Cryogrip Pro, I tried it again and now have the BBL plate too.
The BBL is also only PLA/PETG and is pretty thin. I’ve been using it for a few days now and it does what it’s supposed to. It’s much thinner than I expected but it’s a low heat plate.
If I had to choose one of the 3 options it would be the BTT Glacier.
I have lots of 3rd party smooth plates that work great.
Also their is a new ESP plate, Energy Saving Plate, it’s textured 3rd party.

I’m thinking about throwing away $50 for the aluminum extruder for the P1S/X1C, just because I have their Panda Jet, Extruder Gears on both A1 and P1S, Panda Touch and PWR so might as well waste some money for something that probably doesn’t make much difference.

The Revo has jumped up in price and to be honest, I’ll just use my A1 depending on the print or just swap out the E3d Obsidian.

Possibly it would stop the TZ 4.0 from clogging like the other ones but I doubt it.

The new supertack plate does work as it is supposed to.
Need to do some overhang tests to really compare.

The Cryogrip Pro textured PLA/PETG is a huge pain and not worth it. Unless I got the superglue plate or something.

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Glacier Cryogrip Pro ist a good choice.
affordable, not too “sticky” and with a fine but no superfine textured surface.
I tested PLA PETG and TPU.

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I think you are unaware of the timeline. The light was released, then Bambu told Biqu about the power issue, so they released the livestream and then added the info to the webpage.

They weren’t deliberately misleading people, as it had worked in conjuction with the stock lightbar in their tests ( and many people were running with both lights w/o an issue) before BL notified them, so were unaware of the power limit (since BL did not have that documented anywhere).

Once told, they tried to inform their customers. Mine came with a warning about the power limitation in the box.

Poor communication between the 2 companies? Sure was. Deliberate “scam”? Nope.

30

Just ruined my CryoGrip pro with the new Bambu wood PLA. Totally my fault, had been using the Bamu textured plate and didn’t adjust the temp for the CryoGrip. The wood PLA either left something on the plate or stripped something off. Doesn’t stick at all on the areas of the wood print. When I run it under water you can see the water staying on the plate but running off the wood printed areas.

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I ordered both Frostbite and Glacier and they arrived to day. Because of draft and breeze I need to keep door and top of P1S shut. I am hoping the low bed temp settings with frostbite help to keep the chamber cool in warmer days. I will be able to start testing it next week as i do not want to mess with my calibrations.

First impressions
As I had to order them separately they arrived in two packages. One of the better packagings I received from Aliexpress. Plates were in a cardboard envelope covered by 3 or 4 warps of bubble wrap then shrink rapped. (I can not remember how many times I received electronic parts wrapped with only chines newspaper and a hand written address attached). So I felt the need to mention the packing.

FrostBite: Double sided. There is a Box on plate for QR code but there was no stickers included (I checked P1 while ordering). Maybe because of the color, I was expecting more plasticky plate but it is metal. It is not heavy as BL PEI. This might be causing magnetic strength that big prints warp the plate some of you report. The texture feels like a rough sanding paper more than a textured PEI.

I remember reading something in BIGU site or Aliexpress page about self healing ability of the surface. I do not remember if it is with repetitive washing or something else. If I see it I post that here.

Glacier. Double sided. Bought it for ABS and I will not be printing ABS until whether gets warmer and install a air exhaust system. So I may not test it soon. Although l also checked P1 option this one came with stickers. This one felt heavier but not as much as BL PEI. The surface also feels like a sanding paper but with finer grit. So I would not call it smooth as some youtubers mentioned. Recommended bed temperatures are same as PEI. BIGU Claims this one is for all Filaments but I do not think it provides any advantage for PLA and PETG. If you will buy one of them this is the one to go for.

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grinches
grinches1608×2144 138 KB

love my cryos… i run petg at 42c consistrently(tried 35c but it wouldnt stick) PLA i set at 32c havent tried asa or abs yet but im sure it will help with the warping, obviously cant print those as cool as pla and petg but the extra stick should def help

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how about the other side? at least if you can use the other side not total waste

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Yes, other side is good, just wanted to point out that people should be aware that normal plate temperatures could have adverse consequences.

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The Cryogrip Pro for PLA/PETG I just use the BBL supertack settings or in OrcaSlicer there are now more options.

There is now another Energy Saving Plate from Juupine. I have gotten decent smooth plates for different effects that, work well.
The ESP plate not so much.

Seems to be pretty useless, just a textured engineering plate, adhesion is worse than BBL PEI V2 with the logo on it.

If you aren’t running a print farm the 10 cents a month in electricity savings aren’t worth it. IMO

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36

I ordered the Cryogrip Frostbite Pro because I had some problems with bigger Parts warping on my P1S with PLA on the front corners, had the front door a bit open for PLA printing and the room only has 12 degrees Celsius now in Winter… The warping can also be because of the open front door (but it was open only a little bit, maybe 2-3cm) and the low temperatures… But I will test it out and see, maybe I can have the front door open again :slight_smile:

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The BBL coolsupertack plate is thin but better than the Biqu plate. It’s a bit of a pain to remove prints but nowhere near the Cryogrip Pro to remove prints without artifacts and you can do all the tests between the two.

The Juupine ESP plate is supposed to have better adhesiveness at zero heat but I haven’t had it work well at all.

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I have the Frostbite Pro since last friday and printed a couple of models since then. In my opinion the plate is awesome for big models, had no warping with PLA and an open door.
If you print small models with support or brim, it is really hard to get them off the plate.
But i can recommend the Cryogrip Frostbite pro, for me it works great.

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I have 6 of the Bambu SuperTack plates and now 6 of the BIQU Cryogrip Glacier plates, and here are my experiences with both (as well as textured PEI).

Textured PEI Plates
First let me explain that I grew tired of textured PEI plates losing adhesion in random places or simply wearing out in general. My adhesion issues are most likely because of fingerprints/oils, dust, my PTFE tubes slowly getting ground up by the cable chain, or wear & tear. Wiping the plates down with IPA and paper towel can help, but doesn’t always. Neither does a full scrubbing with hot water and proper dish soaps like Dawn (without moisturizers, etc). As for wear & tear, the PEI coating seems to wear out very quickly if you don’t wait for the plate to cool fully before popping prints off (and I can’t seem to get others to stop doing that). Adding to the wear, PETG can sometimes adhere too well and take off specks of the PEI coating with the print. In addition to the issues I have with PEI plates, I also don’t like the trend of PEI plates getting more and more textured each year. The finer grain of the original black Bambu PEI plates was okay. Now things have gotten kinda gawdy with the texture on the gold plates.

Bambu SuperTack Plates
After watching a bunch of reviews of the SuperTack plates, I was sold. I liked the idea of the fingerprint/oil resistant coating, the lower temp requirements, the crazy adhesion, and the much finer texture. I quickly ended up with one for each of my 6 machines. After a couple of weeks I started to find some downsides to the SuperTack plates. The biggest downside being that the SuperTack coating holds onto stuff like pet hair and dust, which ends up leaving imprints on the first layer of the print. This can be really annoying on some prints and you don’t find out until the print is done. The next biggest downside is that some print geometry results in little gaps between the first layer solid infill and the first layer perimeters. I would notice this on curved geometry the most. This was never noticeable with textured PEI plates. The last downside worth mentioning is that adhesion could sometimes be way too good, and my plastic razor blades seemed to be no match for small parts that didn’t want to come off, even when flexing the plate as much as I could. I resorted to using the metal blades that came with the machines, which work great, but if you’re not careful you can easily damage the SuperTack coating.

BIQU Cryogrip Pro Frostbite
I ignored these as they seem to be the same type of plate as SuperTack, but with the excessive/gawdy texture of gold PEI plates.

BIQU Cryogrip Pro Glacier
Wanting something better than textured PEI to print ABA, ASA, TPU, PC, and others materials onto, and liking the idea of of a toned-down SuperTack/Frostbite for those materials, I gave Cryogrip Pro Glacier a try. I was not planning to buy one of these for each of my machines and instead just wanted 1 or 2 dedicated to the materials I just mentioned above. I was surprised to find that these are not soft or tacky at all. They feel more like a plasticky version of PEI. I really like the texture on these the most of any plate I’ve used. It’s just slightly more texture than what’s on the SuperTack plates, yet it’s enough that I don’t see the same gaps between solid infill and perimeters on the first layer like I do with SuperTack. The finish is wonderful. Adhesion seems PEI-like if not better. Some reviews mention that Pro Glacier resists fingerprints and oils like Pro Frostbite and SuperTack do, and so far that’s been true (which is a huge deal for me). As a bonus, prints self-release when cooled, or at worst come off very easily (no having to pull the plate out of the machine). PETG actually releases more easily than PLA, which is great for the parts I print. I ended up liking these so much that I bought one for each machine and print not just the special materials but also PLA and PETG on them. My SuperTack plates are now put aside for special needs or backup purposes.

TL;DR:

  • Textured PEI plate adhesion is too easily compromised for me, and I don’t like the strong texture of most PEI plates.
  • SuperTack (and presumably Cryogrip Pro Glacier Frostbite) plates attract or hold onto pet hairs and other dust and debris, which can sneak in and ruin the first layer of a print, making for an unhappy surprise many hours later. The texture is so fine that I notice gaps between solid infill and perimeters on certain prints. It can also be very difficult to remove prints from, and is easily ruined by metal scrapers.
  • Cryogrip Pro Glacier strikes a good balance between SuperTack and textured PEI. It has what I feel is the perfect level of texture. It has very good adhesion. It has what seems to be very good resistance to fingerprints/oils. Parts self-release when cooled. It works with more materials.

Notes:

  • For both SuperTack and Pro Glacier I use the “Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack” plate type in Bambu Studio (it’s also in a nightly release of Orca). This means 45 degrees for PLA and 70 for PETG. Works great.
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They aren’t similar at all.

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41

The reviews I saw that had both (or all 3) plates made it seem like SuperTack and Frostbite were very similar, other than the texture. Similar specs, performance, and I think the same chemical makeup.

What are your thoughts on the differences?

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It seems to be a very different coating. The ST is sort of a rubbery layer applied to the plate, the frostbite is some kind of chemical dip.

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43

Try this (shameless self promotion, but it works very well):

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45

Frostbite is indeed very durable. Just dial back the bed temps compared to Glacier. This thing is sticky and a bear to separate if ran too hot. And NEVER alcohol