I’m not a complete noob to 3D printing, I had a Prusa Mk3 for years for work but I just got my P1S yesterday and set it up. I tried printing the benchy from built in memory twice and had to cancel both; complete fails. So I sliced one using more moderate settings and it was mostly successful. Today while trying to print some parts for a filament dryer everything looks like trash. The first layer looks very underextruded solid infill isn’t meeting outside and inside walls. This is all using the provided PLA Basic. I don’t have a dryer so it isn’t dried. It does not snap like spaghetti so it can’t be that wet.
I did the two built in calibrations and this is the results of the second.
I didn’t select any of them and abandoned this calibration since something is obviously badly wrong. I’d suspect a clog in the brand new nozzle but every calibration wipe at the front of the print plate is perfect with almost no line thickness change. Does anyone have any ideas on where I should begin?
I should add that this is printed with the top glass off and the front door open. My printer is in a cool basement with an ambient temp of about 68F (20C). Nozzle is set to 220C and bed is 65C for my failed benchy and dryer parts. Bed adhesion has been great so far despite the under extrusion.
I have never printed PLA with a bed temp of 65C. PLA Tg is 55-60C, you are well into the gooey phase. I print with the bed temp at 55C for PLA. Other things to verify:
the correct built plate is selected before slicing.
The correct filament is set in the printer extruder settings under Device tab of Bambu Studio.
Thanks for the response. The correct filament was not selected in the printer extruder under the Devices tab. It is now and I’m reprinting. I had a peek in Bambu’s PLA settings and they’ve got it set up with 65C 1st layer and 65C all the rest on PEI. I can override it.
Interesting. I just checked all of the system default profiles in Bambu Studio for Bambu PLA. All flavors of PLA have 55C for initial and remaining layers. This is for smooth and textured PEI build plates.
Filament doesn’t snap when it’s wet. I think someone created that to troll some folks. (Anyone who doubts it, take a piece of filament and put it in a glass of water, come back after hours or days, does it snap? Didn’t think so.)
As to your pic, are you dropping Z any to compensate for the textured plate? I thought the printer profiles did compensate but I routinely have to add a negative Z offset to compensate. Bambu mentions I think -.01 iirc but of course depending upon the nozzle size and layer height, might be slightly more or less. The pic looks like overextrusion though. This is one reason I chose the X1C for the lidar.
After speculating I read your other response(it’s my way of self testing myself ), what was the filament type chosen for the first attempt? (that was the basic green pla it came with?) And in over a decade I’ve printed everything of every type with a air-sealed enclosure. Bambu’s suggesting is mainly to compensate for weak motors of the AMS and outlier ambient temps in folks’ houses.
Blockquote what was the filament type chosen for the first attempt? (that was the basic green pla it came with?)
I don’t actually know filament the slicer was slicing with in that first attempt. I did select Bambu PLA Basic as my filament and that was what I sliced with. Maybe it was assuming PLA in an AMS or something rather than just the hang off the back external spool? No clue, I’m too much of a noob to Bambu Studio to say. I’m just glad it was an easy enough fix!
Yes, PLA does absorb moisture and become brittle over time: Hydrolysis. The process is not instant, so your glass of water “test” is useless.
So yes, PLA does snap after absorbing moisture.
I’m using 30g of OOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLLDDDDDDD PLA I had leftover from 5 years ago that has been sitting open in my humid basement and it is nearly as brittle as dried spaghetti in a box! It took me three tries to feed it to the extruder without snapping. It is very very brittle.
Hydrolysis is part of the equation, but blasting it with hot air (increasing reaction rates) and with it being very dry, it will easily evaporate the solvents across water, oil, and several others. And yes, the water test is very valid, especially if you leave it for days. It only takes hours to show though because you have increased the exposure rate to 100%. Heck, put filament in a pot on your stove, add water, bring it to 100 degrees, something comparable to a dryer temp.
If someone seriously uses a water based solvent in their filament, it’s a problem with formulation and engineering.
), what was the filament type chosen for the first attempt? (that was the basic green pla it came with?) And in over a decade I’ve printed everything of every type with a air-sealed enclosure. Bambu’s suggesting is mainly to compensate for weak motors of the AMS and outlier ambient temps in folks’ houses.