Can the A1 print faster than the X1 and still print great?

EDITED: JUMP TO HERE: Can the A1 print faster than the X1 and still print great? - #4 by NeverDie

Prior original post:
If it turns out the A1 can push plastic faster than an X1, I’d consider picking one up during the current sale. Apparently the X1 hotends are around 40 watts, which is hampering the flow rate that can be achieved. Since that was a known issue before the A1 was released, I’m just wondering whether BBL may have put extra watts into the A1’s hotend so that it could maybe achieve higher maximal flow rates? I don’t see it listed on the spec sheet.

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Probably the best way is to get someone with an A1 to measure the resistance of the nozzle heater.

A1 and A1 mini share the same hotend heating assembly, so if someone knows the wattage for the A1 mini, it should be the same.

I’m probably asking the wrong question: Since the A1 hotend is stainless steel, which I’ve read conducts heat much worse than the X1’s hardened steel, getting to an apples-to-apples comparison won’t be as straightforward as I first thought. What I should have titled this post is: “Can the A1 print faster than the X1 and still maintain great print quality?” because that’s what I really care about and want to know. The watts was just my first attempt to answer the question objectively. So, I’m going to change the title now to that, because maybe someone who owns both may have done such a comparison.

The A1 & A1 mini can print faster than the P & X series is some cases. The A1 mini can be slightly faster than the A1.

The bed-slinging motion does mean some more delicate models may have issues unless slowed down.

You can see the speed estimates without having the printer.

Tell studio you have the A1 mini & A1, then slice a few test models on each.

I have the hardened steel hot ends for the A series and they work fine, that isn’t a limitation. I often have the A1 mini/A1 complete faster than the P1S I have.

We are not talking significant differences though.

The key thing is, the A1 mini or A1 isn’t a poor cousin of the P or X, it is sometimes faster and significantly cheaper.

What you can print is limited by the max bed and hot end temps as well as a lack of enclosure. If you are after PLA, PETG & TPU, you shouldn’t rule them out.

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Oh good. I had mistakenly thought the A series was limited to stainless steel. Well, in that case (returning to my earlier, original question), you wouldn’t happen to know the A1’s hot-end’s wattage would you?

I don’t sorry, I don’t know where to look. If you think it is something I can find on the printer or elsewhere, let me know and I will happily look and report back.

No worries. You already answered the more important question.

BTW, at least in my experience, the lidar based automatic calibrations for both dynamic flow and pressure advance on the X1C have been rather hit or miss. By that I mean, sometimes they agree with what I find manually using the orca slicer calibrations, and sometimes they’re off by a mile. It looks as though BBL has implemented a different (superior?) method on the A1, namely directly measuring the pressure inside the nozzle:

Are you finding that the automatic calibrations on the A1 are spot-on, or is it a similar thing, where it’s hit or miss, or…?

In raw printing speed I don’t think there’s a big difference.

But 4 color prints with many color changes can be faster on an A-series machine, because of the much shorter retraction time when switching colors.

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I have had zero issues.

I imagine many of the A series feature improvements will flow through to future P & X releases.

Agreed.

So, just to be clear, you have not had to do any manual calibrations on, say, a non-Bambu Lab filament? The A1’s automatic calibration always dials it in spot on for you?

Has anyone reading this ever had the A1’s automatic calibration fail (i.e. prove inadequate, insufficient, or not accurate enough), requiring manual calibration to dial it in? If it always works 100%, that would certainly be worthy of note!

I have only ever run the auto-calibration once and never needed to do it again.

I have never needed to do any manual changes. I have not had it fail, albeit I only needed to run it once obviously.

The out-of-the-box experience is excellent.

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You should check this out as well. This one is for the A1 mini but, if you read the thread, there is another project working on an A1 version.

Not something as easily translatable to the P or X series.

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Same with my A1 mini. Only issue I’ve had is clumping a few times but that was my fault because the build plate was dirty spaghetti turns to clumping when the print head moves around. As far as the hot ends, the stock one is stainless steel but they sell hardened steel ones which are now on sale for like $10 each which is less than generic ones on Amazon. I have a few spare heat ends for future globs if they happen again; it’s been a good week. I did read before purchasing that print quality and speed-wise, the A1 mini is the best one. It just can’t handle some filaments, no multiple AMS yet, and for the mini, a smallish build plate (I keep a few extra ones of those, too).

In my opinion, the A1 is better than the X1C, as I’ll explain below.

I own both the A1 and the X1C, and initially, the X1C seemed to produce better prints, especially with walls. However, after a few weeks, I found that the A1 actually outperforms the X1C for my prints. It’s like the A1 needed a “breaking in” period.

I have several items that print curved, upside-down features, and the X1C tends to produce wavy or stringy lines in these areas. The A1, however, forms perfect lines without any support. These features are set at a little over 45 degrees on an upside-down curved slope. I’ll try to share photos at some point to show where the A1 clearly beats the X1C.

I also print on spring steel plates, which are smooth like glass. Without any tweaking, the A1 achieves the perfect squeeze and pressure. With the X1C, no amount of calibration or tweaking seems to give a better bottom layer than the A1—it often shows lines or the print direction. This is critical when printing on special plates because that first layer needs to be flawless for the desired effect.

I use a standard print head on the A1 with a 0.4mm stainless steel nozzle. For the X1C, I use a 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle. Both printers use Bambu Lab PLA or PETG Basic. I don’t print with high-flow (HF) materials or work often with carbon fiber (CF), ABS, or PV on the X1C. Whenever I see the A1 excel at something I didn’t think it was capable of, it frustrates me that the X1C, which should be top-of-the-line, doesn’t always measure up. I even have two chamber heaters on the X1C to help with warping, while on the A1, a simple 3DLacPlus does the job.

The A1’s print bed is also 5 degrees hotter than the X1C’s. It has a steel bed, whereas the X1C’s bed is plastic with a magnetic rubber top.

Though simpler in design, the A1 is, in my opinion, much better. It’s open, and if you’re only printing PLA or PETG and using Bambu’s materials (which are often on sale as refills), it’s hard to beat. The AMS Lite on the A1 is excellent, making it, for me, the GOAT.

When I’m in the market for another printer, it’ll be the A1—not another X1C.

On top of all this, I’ve only calibrated the A1 a couple of times, and as long as it keeps printing excellently, I leave it alone. The X1C, on the other hand, requires more maintenance and has some persistent issues, like the X or Y resonance error, that never seems to clear, no matter what I do. I contacted Bambu Lab about this error, but unfortunately, they weren’t very helpful.

With the added maintenance, moving parts, and spare parts needed to keep the X1C up to par, the A1 is my clear winner. It’s less complicated, with fewer parts that can fail.

There may still be a few things the X1C can do better, but the more I push the A1, the more it continues to impress me.

One area to note, the A1’s print is speed is slower than an X1C, but speed over quality, I’ll always pick quality. The X1C may overcome some of these issues be printing at 50% speed, but then what’s the point?

Very interesting read. Photos would help tremendously for straight-up A-B comparisons, as I only own the X1C.

Do you have any ideas as to why the A1 might be better? I think I’ve read that the A1 has a pressure sensor in the printhead, and I do wonder if it is that or something else which is responsible for the advantages you are seeing.

The A1 was designed after the X1-C. It appears as if the flow dynamics work better and may be more advanced on the A1 than on the X1 and P1. There is a subtle yet noticeable difference. Small multicolor prints tend to print better on the A1.

The only real downside to the A1 is the cornfield effect. Where printed objects with large footprints tend to lift up on the edges and corners.

You mean due to shrinkage and the fact that the A1 is not printing in a closed chamber?

It is not shrinkage, it is lifting due to temperature differentials. It seems to be mostly a problem with large flat objects. And yes it is due to not having an enclosed chamber. A problem that my P1S does not have.

As far as dimensional accuracy, there is no difference between the A1 and the X-Y core machines.

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