Had a look around here for the above and didn’t find anything specifically for the P2S. I found a few propriatry heaters on the web specifically for this and wondered if anyone had done this and had any observations.
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Get H2S if you need heater you will probobly also be happy from higehr nozzle temps. pick the right tool for the job.
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There are a couple users that have installed the Panda Breath into the P/X series printers. I haven’t personally but they might chime in here. I believe @MeshMaster has one in his U1 and seemed happy.
I will caution you though that other users have gone the DIY route and melted internal parts.
Thanks Jon, I’ve pretty much knocked the idea on the head due to iffy safety reports on the Aliexpress ones and the more expensive ones are just too expensive at the moment.
I’ve rigged up a filter system that recurculates the air in the chamber that gets the temp up to 45C which seems to work ok for ABS and PETG.
I’ve seen comments that the P2S chamber is ok upto 60C, now you know if that is correct please?
My X and P printers generally run about 50-55C (from bed heating) so 60 should be safe but I wouldn’t push it much further.
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Bed heating is usually enough.
On my X1C, I had the inside wrapped with aluminum tape and a chamber heater. Even without the heater active, it would easily get up to 65C. With the heater, I would get it up to 70C.
That is about the point that I would not go past.
The issue with the P2S and heating is that it doesnt have a main board fan like the X1 does. I would be much more worried about the internal electronics.
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Thanks Ted,
As mentioned, I’ll leave it for now as summer is coming and our temp in the UK should help for the next few months!
Yes, no fan, cost cutting by BL I suppose. Wouldn’t be difficult to add one if necessary I guess…
From what I’ve read the X-Y motors on the hobby printers can cause problems at or above 70C as well as the concerns for the PCB so 55-60C seems sensible.
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I’ve been running a Panda Breath in my P1S for about a month, I love it.
Physical installation is pretty straight forward. My only hiccup was needing to trim my Panda Diaper around the base of it.
The software not so much. The interface is a bit janky. It is similar to accessing a router’s homepage by using the IP address. Software setup was not simple but not terribly difficult. Biqu claim there is a phone app coming.
The unit is entirely made of metal and quite solid feeling. I’m impressed by it’s build quality. It has it’s own internal power supply. This means it requires it’s own 120v connection. This is the only part which could be a bit more elegant. Routing the power cord up and out of the top is silly. They provide a print file for a riser to accommodate the cord. Once my warranty period is over, I’ll be drilling a hole for the cord to exit.
It integrates with the printer via the printer’s access code. The Panda’s interface allows you to set a bed temperature to “trigger” heating activation. You can then set your chamber target temperature. When the heater is not on, the unit still acts as an air circulator and filter. The Chamber on the P1S reaches 60c before the bed reaches 80c.
Overall, I feel this product is well worth the price. It is solidly built, performs very well and even looks nice. It adds great functionality to an older platform. I’ve been printing ABS, ASA and Polycarbonate. Since installation, it has just worked. I haven’t had to do anything.
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Wow, thanks for the great explination Dana! I did notice that the cost of the PB has dropped slightly so I may well revisit this when the weather turns cooler…
I’m fine with the intricies of the mechanical/wiring side but absolutely hate anything to do with software, that’s why I abandoned Marlin and Klipper!
I’ve managed with 45C chamber temp that my P2S is holding fairly consistently for ABS but did have a large print (240 x 170) fail recently due to the print actually lifting the PEI plate up with the model at about 20 layers so will be experimenting with the bed temp and some home made clips to try and keep it down on the heated bed.
It’s all a learning journey!
I’ve had similar issues with bed lifting on my H2S while printing large with PLA. It’s all about the upper layers cooling faster than the bottom.
I ultimately improved it by lowering bed temperature while simultaneously lowering part cooling fans. (Glue the heck out of it, too)
You can also select crosshatch for infill and change the outer walls sequence to inner/outer/inner.
Hope that helps.
Aye, thats clearly what’s happening and strangely enough what was printed was dead flat when I took it off the plate!
The infil was gyroid and the last layer before failure, which was a top layer, was hilbert curve. It was something I downloaded from maker World - and probably not a combination I would have used but I thought I’d give it a try. I haven’t had chance to look at the fan operation which is something I need to do. Bed temp was 90C, nozzle was 285C based on a temp tower I ran for the filament used.
I used 2DLAC Plus, and the bond to the PEI build plate was fine so that area was covered, I was surprised when I noticed it had lifted the build plate as I’d never seen it before, it’s good to know it has happened to someone else!
I’m thinking I may redesign the whole thing to get away from the sharp corners of the original design and do a few other tweaks before I print again.
Anyway, thanks again for the help Dana, it’s much apopreciated 
Afaik the Panda sadly doesen’t fit into the P2S - or does it?
Seems it can be fitted and new sw is compatible:
(20+) Bambu Lab P1S and P2S | Installed the BIQU Panda Breath on my p2s today | Facebook
Looks like its been done a few times, here is a makerworld link:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2632468-panda-breath-holder-for-p2s?from=search#profileId-2907043
I don’t know whether he had to cut off the standoffs on the left panel. Will check the fitment, got my panda breath coming next week. If it doesn’t fit in the P2S without cutting things, I’ll just chuck it in my P1S.
Concidering theP2Sis supposed to be ableto print the filiaments specified An people buy what they can afford the comment i think is unnessasarry as technicaly the the toolused is supposed to be right forthe job.
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Since I had already installed a dual carbon and hepa filter on a P1S I didn’t get the Panda Breath and instead got a Chitu H2 heater which was considerably cheaper. Used in combination with pre-heating the bed at 100C I can get the chamber up to a stable 55C. Note that I’ve also insulated the interior, the door frame gap and plugged the poop-scute. I’ve not finished sealing things quite yet as I want to fully seal the glass lid too.
Here’s the installation
45mm circular hole for the grommet setup.
Outside right panel with the grommet installed. Hadn’t made the controller holder by this point for attaching to the HSW panel.
UK plug needed removing as its too big for the hole. Everything else fits through fine. I think US plugs would fit without this step though.
Sticky backed plate for the magnetised bottom to attach to the bottom of the printer. Its very strong.
Top down view showing clearances.
There’s a few Chitu H2 grommet prints on makerworld but their threads were rubbish so I made my own with 3D printer friendly threads. If anyone wants it I’ll upload. I also did an HSW holder for the controller unit. If your heart is set on the Panda this hole setup would work for that too I guess 
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