The goal is to print a bucket 8x2 with a height of 5 inches. As designed it has an embossed logo on one side that is filled with a different color.
It has to hold water well over time, does not need UV protection.
First attempt was using Bambu ASA, red bucket, white infill of the embossed logo. That print failed, the biggest problem being when doing the color change for the infill, that whole layer did not adhere well and split off when it shrank. The bottom was also slight rounded. But below the layer with the color change for the infill, it looked solid.
With the default Bambu settings, I was not sure the result would be water tight, so I did change the defaults a little, thicker walls, etc.
I read a few good threads on things I can do for better ASA prints, but worried that the infill area might be a continuing issue. Perhaps increasing the temperature might work. I thought of printing it on its side, infill area down, but it would need a ton of support for the inside of the bucket.
So for Bambu ASA, any suggestions on settings for a water tight container, or would the stock Bambu settings work? Anyone else have ASA adhesion issues when doing color change?
Just throwing it out there, have you checked that the second colour is actually ASA and not another filament like PLA? That would explain the adhesion problems.
I’ve had good luck with sealing Bambu ABS/ASA with acetone so that might be an option.
I probably should have made clear that the separation involves the red layer, and at the ends of the bucket, typical for shrinkage issue with bad adhesion. So while it is at the level of the first use of the white, the white is in the middle of the large side and is not impacted.
A liner is a good idea but the current print is unusable.
I just wanted to put the end goal out there and allow people to suggest different filament or whatever. But you’re correct, I want a water tight non warped end product. (?PETG might be easier)
The box below the embedded logo the box looks ok and I suspect is water tight, slight rounding of the bottom, but for first print not terrible. But when it had to switch to white for the infill embossed logo, the whole layer separated.
Using X1c, preheated, but stuck with the stock Bambu ASA settings to start.
I made some homemade mouse ears, just the circle and cube primitives resized. They worked quite well. As @duane777 mentioned don’t forget to assemble them after you’ve got the positioning right.
No brim, I personally hate them lol. The primatives I’ve made up bind to the bottom layer.
Radiusing the corners a little goes a long way, it also helps if you don’t chamfer or fillet your bottom surface as it gives away a little bite and invites lifting in my experience. That and no aux fan.
What are you doing if you have to print somebody else’s model (e.g. from makerworld or printables or thingiverse) and, as is so often the case, the only published files are just .step or .stl file, but no other CAD/fusion360 source file? Is there still some way to attach your pads to the print object using the slicer, or do you have to relent and use brims of some kind in that scenario? Or do you import it into your CAD package as a mesh and then attach them to the mesh that way?
All done in Bambu Studio from the model you linked (3mf works the same as stl), it can be a bit fiddly the first time but you get the idea. The only problem I had was if the bottom is chamfer/filleted as the bottom layer is staggered. It just meant I had to move the pin a bit further in, when you slice it you will see it connect cleanly
