I’m not seeing this claim.
Do you have to? When you make a product description like that and put a list of compatible accessories it means they will work as intended. This is honest marketing 101.
Under Parameters Comparison section of the page I linked. I do not see any asterisks on 0.6 and 0.8.
Nozzle Diameter 0.4 mm (Included)
0.2 mm, 0.6 mm, 0.8 mm (Optional)
They do work as intended. Where is the high speed claim?
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0.6mm and 0.8mm Nozzle - Faster Print Speed
Larger diameter extrudes more filaments per second, resulting in faster print speed
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I think now you can see it
I did not tried myself as I could not buy one, but based on all the comments above they do not work as intended as you mentioned.
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…compared to a smaller diameter nozzle on the same printer. Still true.
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I also make an edit to my previous post but I think you were replying at the same time 
The whole tread is about this. 0.4 prints better and faster than others. 0.6 and 0.8 print badly even if the speeds are reduced.
Do not get me wrong. I am not a frustrated customer trying to rant or trying to start a flare. By no means have any intention to piss you off either. I am just a poor hobbyist trying to understand if my investment in 0.6 will worth or not.
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Wanted to share my exp. Moving from .4 to .6. I have the Obxidian High Flow .6 nozzle.
I get about double the volumetric flow rate as with the stock .4 nozzle.
Speed – To actually get shorter print times, the easiest way is to print thick layers - .3-.42. You can eke out some speed by raising print speeds, but you don’t get a ton because acceleration is a limiting factor.
I can get about 30-40% shorter print times with .3 layers and higher linear speeds combined.
Quality – I make a custom profile for each filament with Orca. Even though the Obxidian is officially approved, the stock .6 nozzle profiles don’t take into account the high flow characteristics, or inherent loss of detail with a bigger nozzle. To keep the detail as close to .4 nozzle detail as possible, I always use Arachne - and I lower the minimum wall width to about 66%. That lets Arachne give me .4-level detail, but also monster 1mm lines where needed. I often set my internal solid infill manually to .9 mm wide, and have no trouble - so fast.
The only place I’ve had any quality issue is with very low layer heights - like .12 - which is below the recommended min (.18) for a .6 nozzle… I think pressure advance stops performing the same way at these tiny little layer heights. Sometimes I get tiny seam gaps (like half a mm pock marks). I was able to fix that by setting seam gap on 0%, printing inner wall first, and reducing retraction to .3. This is with Tinmorry PETG-CF (which is really nice).
Overall I am very happy with the shorter print times, and nearly equal quality. But, it takes a little customization if you want to preserve both speed and quality.
It is possible my experience with Obxidian is not the same as it would have been with the stock .6. The Obxidian uses licensed CHT tech to get the high flow rates - which they don’t talk about a lot 
Just my experience with an approved, albeit 3rd-party hotend.
But Obxidian is 3rd party is not it? I have no doubt about BL printers capability of speed and quality. What disappointed me to hear is; their official accessories (nozzles) and their profiles are not up to par with their printers to deliver their promises. As I mention in one of my earlier post, BL printer supposed to be closed source, their ecosystem will be enough for solutions and not modable by 3rd party parts. When we look for solutions with 3rd parties things end up like Creality saga. This is neither good for us nor for BL.
They are not Bambu, but you could consider them to be part of the ecosystem. They are the only officially approved aftermarket maker of hotends for Bambulab printers. But you’re right they are not the ones that bambu sells on their website. And I also agree with you that the ones that they sell should just work well.
Let me try to explain some of the confusion and issues…
I can only base this on my experience with the P1S.
The print profiles and all else are optimised to work with the BAMBU hotends to the degree of what these hotends are capable of.
Sadly the decision to go cheap on the hotends added a limiting factor.
With my E3D and all standard profiles I was able to observe something weird.
Once I increased the max flow rate from the default 19 to my default of 40 the print speed increased quite a bit.
Speeds set to 200mm/s showed in the slice at over 300 and it printed much faster as well.
Bambu is well aware that their hotends are not on par with what their machines are capable of.
Also that these hotends are way too restrictive, resulting in possible heat creep issues as on top of all their heat break does not not really do any breaking between hotend and heatsink.
So once you have a large enough retraction the filament gets squished, shortly after it won’t go anywhere.
In terms of printer profiles not meeting expectations we need to understand how their creation works.
Everyone uploads models to Makerworld and whenever the mandatory images to be added show that THIS print stand out in quality some guy at Bambu takes a look at the profile settings - if they spot it.
Thing is that there is not too make people uploading things dedicated for nozzles with a diameter different to 0.4mm.
And, no offence, most of what is uploaded is far from being optimised.
Those out of the box profiles Bambu keeps updating every now and then are based on what the users provide, not on what some hard working guy in a Bambu lab figured out…
Using a 0.2mm nozzles with the right filament isn’t much a problem if have the patience and need for it.
Getting the calibration right is one thing, getting the highest possible speed and quality at the same time is a can of worms.
I just accept that it takes like forever to print something with a 0.2mm nozzle…
0.6 or 0.8mm nozzles are already past of what the Bambu hardware is capable of.
Yes, you can use them.
But no if you think they would give you the benefits you are after.
As pointed out already the default profiles and setting need to be tuned to your needs, you also need a dedicated custom filament profile or use the now available options to store different flow ratios and k-factors.
Do all this and you get good prints.
Downside is that those fat nozzles are capable of printing much faster than a 0.4 nozzle.
General thinking in all those posts and topics though suggests people only see the advantage of thicker and wider layer lines.
If you have go half on the speed with a 0.2 nozzle would that suggest you can print twice as fast with a 0.8mm nozzle?
Well not really as there is a lot of factors but it still means a larger nozzle can print significantly faster.
So what’s the deal here?
Flow rate is the deal…
My first 3D printer used 3mm filament and the default nozzle size was 0.7 with an optional “fine detail” nozzle of 0.4mm available.
If you do the math for 0.4 and 1.75mm filament vs 0.7mm nozzle and 3mm filament you will see the extruder speeds are not that different.
The hotends back in the day were utter horse manure (stupid censoring of words here) compared to today’s standards.
But they worked well in terms of extruding plastic because of their gigantic melting chambers and having massive heating power.
My hotend had TWO 50W heating tubes in a heating block the size of a shoe box - ok it wasn’t that big but you you get idea from just the heaters…
Even at the max speed of barely over 40mm/s second those heaters only kicked every now and then.
There was no PWM control, just bang bang PID control…
The flimsy ceramic heater the Bambu mainboard allows for already struggles when I print high temp filaments at high speed with my E3D.
Not because their hotend isn’t good enough but simply because they can’t use a more powerful heater without risking to damage the mainboard.
Limited by design comes to mind…
If you use a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle a lot and managed to tune everything for the best possible result than DO add some meaningful words in the description so others and Bambu know there is a good working set of profiles included.
It will take time but the more actually printed models are uploaded with more or less meaningful changes to the default values the higher the chance that some of them make it into the release of updated standard profiles.
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I have not read everything in this thread, but have you managed to find a good profile for 0.6 or 0.8?
I got a project where i needed the 0.6, and in Sunlu PETG. Spent some time calibrating and testing. Found a good quality/strenght profile, that also has a decent volumetric speed of 21 mm3 and got rid of stringing and nozzle build up/blobs (that i normaly had problems with on bigger models).
Can go faster, but this was the sweet spot + bein on the safe side.
Got the 0.8 running good for PETG-CF too.
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I’ll toss my hat in the ring here and state that I’ve been incredibly frustrated by trying to get the .6 / .8 hardened extruders working myself. The flow dynamic calibrations have pits regardless of how much i tweak retraction, print temp, or any other setting I can find. My PLA is bone dry and works great on the .4 extruders. I’m not willing to go back in time on firmware just to chase this down.
That doesn’t mean the nozzles suck.
I use 0.6 (hardened steel) most of the time… I have seen it knock 1 hour off a 3 or 4 print.
But then it might just knock 10 minutes.
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You can’t really believe that, right?. You think Bambu came out out of nowhere took the industry by storm, has become the standard against which consumer 3d printers are judged against – printers that everyone else is tripping over themselves to copy and get those clones to market just grabs some stuff that users post and hope it’s good? You don’t think thousands of test prints determined the base profiles?
The best profiles are the ones that you’ve calibrated and tested on your own equipment in your own environment. Ever try cooking at high elevation and also at low elevation? Now take the difficulties and differences from just the change in elevation we’ll pretend nothing else exists and scale that across the globe – now go write one recipe that works for everyone to follow exactly. You can’t. Instead your provide guidelines for determining things like what temperature to use and for how long – that’s the 3d printing equivalent of calibrations.
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Hi, this is exactly the same that I’m experimenting!
I’ll usually waste an hour of slicer finagling to wind up with 10 plates of ‘what iffff?’, just to save a dozen minutes on a 2 hour print hahaha
For instance, my old 1st gen CR10s can change from 0.4 to 0.6 with good results just by changing profile in slicer to 0.6 and I was amazed at how bad it was on P1s. Very disappointed.
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