Core X-Y accuracy

Hi, I have a shaft that i want to print laying down, and rely on supports to hold it. Filament running length wise is the strongest. On normal X-Y standard rail machines you want to align the axis of the part with the X or Y axis. the part has the best chance to be straight because the tool is simply following straight rails.
Core X-Y has rails but both steppers are turning when parallel to their direction.

Does anyone know if there is an ideal orientation to place the part in so only one stepper operates, and gives you the best accuracy? because the machine doesn’t have to guide both steppers, which I realize it does very well.

The quick answer is, yes it is possible. If you set an object on the build plate so that head movement is at a 45 Degree angle, only one stepper motor will engage. If you want to see this for yourself, power down the printer so that you can manually slide the head. Then move the head manually in a 45 degree angle in the X-Y plane. You will witness only one belt moving.

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However, as you already surmised. The Bambu lab printers are not the home built science projects of the past. They are fully evolved mechanisms. I liken it to the difference between an old style cable controlled carburetor vs a modern style electronic fuel injection. It is futile to try to isolate X-Y stepper motor movement. There is zero advantage to this in Bambu’s technology.

If I understand your goal however,. You’re trying to get the filament lines to align along the shaft length presumably for strength. If that is so, you may find that you would be better served doing so in the slicer, not necessarily by orienting the part differently, although that won’t necessarily hurt either.

So let’s take an example of where one creates a rod using a cylinder primitive of 10x10x100mm. The slice using defaults would look like this.

Now if one goes into the strength tab and make three changes.

  1. 100% infill
  2. Aligned rectilinear

this is the result. Straight lines and note that the filament movement is continuous thus increasing the bond internally with the outside wall.

  1. Change the angle to 180

Now you have your lengthwise filament strands and note the grid in the background hasn’t changed orientation. So you get your filaments running in the direction you want without the need to worry about independent stepper motor movement.

But here’s another trick. Abandon infill patterns altogether and just change the wall thickness. There is no limit to how many walls you have. What you get in return is an even concentric pattern.

Now if you really want to live on the edge and try something. Try this approach of no walls, no, top or bottom shells and 100% infill using concentric pattern. I’ve been wanting to do this with CF for a while and run a strength test. So as of now, I don’t know if this will work or if I will get a stringy mess.

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Another truly whacky suggestion.

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Now you sound like someone who has been at this awhile so what I’m suggesting next I wouldn’t even consider suggesting to a newbie. But I think if you’re going a rod shape and presumably it’s round(ish) then you’re likely going to run into aggravation with respect to getting the supports to align cleanly. So here’s another approach that would require some trial and error. Create a lattice part as your main structure, let’s say a cube primitive stretched to enclose the rod. Then create a part modifier that is the rod you want to create(or import it as an STL).

Such a wild approach might look like this.

The pattern chosen is 5% Gyroid with 0 walls, 0 top and 0 bottom layers. Wacky looking? Yes but it might work as an alternative scaffolding to using supports.

At any rate, this is just some food for thought. Let us know what you end up doing and share how it worked out.

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Thanks for all the great suggestions.

This is the actual part I’m working with. it a shaft for clock made out of ABS. The only thing that is important is that the shaft can’t be too weak, the holes at the ends (where two stainless pins go) have to be concentric with the barrel and that the flange surfaces must not have axial runout or the gear will wobble. the two smaller pieces pick the pins up on the front and back plates.

So I chuck the large diameter up in a three jaw chuck and if the ends run out I found that I can heat the shaft up, put an end in a live center and the runout is gone. Pretty cool when dealing with plastic. the face runout is not as easy to solve. That was the basis of my original accuracy question. Seems like the very bottom surface flares out a bit… Bambu Studio won’t let me lift it off the bed and put support under the entire part.

this machine is truly amazing in that those pin caps need to have no clearance but not be tight. You need to spin the gear by blowing on it. I messed around with an ID of 2.65 to 2.80 in 0.05 increments. I have no way to measure what I got but you can feel the difference between 0.05 increments on the stainless pin. Impressive. Not something I would ever thought you could control in FDM and at those speeds and in my basement.

OK. Thanks for the clarifying images, it helps a lot.

If your looking for dimensional accuracy with respect to holes, I’ve been pursuing that holy grail for a while. I’ve gotten pretty good at it using the X-Y hole feature but truth be told, Iv’e always gotten better results just getting close and then machining the last step using a drill. If you really want strong dimensional accuracy, I suggest heat pressed brass fittings but if you want perfect square inserts, you’ll want to use a jig for the solder iron heat press.

For something like the shape your trying to print. I don’t see you having much success trying to print a device that long in a lateral path. But with some sanding you could get it smooth again after you remove the supports. My thinking is you’ll end up sacrificing strength though because the layers won’t ever glue completely. That said, look at the transparent PETG post elsewhere in this forum for methods to provide slow but very strong - in this case optically clear - layer bonding.

I would always opt first to bring a shape like into CAD and make small changes. The first being is that I would isolate the round shaft from the threaded part and make a hole for the shaft to slide in. Now if you don’t have CAD, I’d recommend Onshape since it’s free.

But if CAD is not an option, this could also be done in the slicer. First, cut the part at the thread base. Then take the round shaft part and clone it. Part one you will want to lengthen it a bit so that it fits inside the hex part. Then use the second part, export it as an STL and then reimport it as a negative part to the hex shaft. Increase the diameter a smidge or use the X-Y hole parameter to get a slightly larger hole to accept the shaft. Then orient the hex part vertically, this will also help a lot with your thread accuracy as you won’t need as much supports or could try to use no supports.

I was able to design this part in Alibre including the 7/16-14 threads. My main concern is that two flange surfaces are parallel and normal to the axis. I could print the shaft with the threads and print the polygon body by itself, internal threads, standing up. It does not have to resist bending. Standing up might make those faces more parallel.

If I make a bunch of end caps and if they very in size I like the idea of sizing it with metal. Could also just sort thru many copies. Ton of options vs wood alone.

Again thanks for the advice.

Use the cut tool and cut it lengthwise along the shaft, then print both parts face down on the bed with maximum walls to make it solid. Glue the 2 halves together with acetone (as you’re using ABS). No supports needed

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That is an awesome idea! It would solve many issues indeed.

It’s been so long since I printed anything in ABS because of the smell I forgot about that trick. I’ll give it a try. Thanks.