Current Head position

How do I know the current head position?

The issue is I’m trying to print PETG which is infamous for blobbing at the end of the nozzle. I installed a silicone wiper (from the A1 and printed part) which helps. I’m also having the nozzle wipe at every layer change.

The problem is that it is wiping on only the Y axis which doesn’t get all of the blobs. I want to have it wipe on the Y axis, then go to the middle of the silicone pad and wipe in the X axis, however I don’t know how to read the current coordinates of the X axis when I have the head in the position I want it to be in.

When I jog the head into position, how do I read the current position?

I’m using Bambu Studio.

Hi @iCrash,

I am unsure if I understood how you intend to wipe the nozzle in the direction perpendicular to the printer door, but that’s not in the question. This is vague without looking into the g-code, but your request seems to have a movement of a certain distance in the y-axis. So why don’t implement a relative one? You need to measure the distance between the nozzle and the whipper, which is more accessible than finding the absolute position of the toolhead.

2 Likes

@iCrash I must concur with @JayZay. Your question is hard to understand. There is a way to know the X,Y,Z travel position in the preview menu by checking the travel box. But it’s unclear if that is what your asking.

2 Likes

I apologize. I got the axis wrong in my original post. Sorry for the confusion.
I meant to say that the problem is that it is wiping on only the X axis which doesn’t get all of the blobs. I need it to wipe on X and then on Y over the silicone pad.

@JayZay I intend to wipe the nozzle on the Y axis by putting G-code in at each layer change to go do the wipe.
@Olias Thank you, I learned something new about the interface, however this isn’t showing what I need to know. This is previewing what the head will do if I send the G-code, not the current position I jogged it to.

This is what I currently have on my X1C:
Preview > Rt. Click layer > Edit Custom G-Code

G1 X60 F12000
G1 Y245
G1 Y265 F3000
M400
G1 X125 F6000
G1 X60 F6000
G1 Y245
G1 X125 F6000
M400

This is currently wiping on the X axis.

I would like it to do this and then go to the middle of the silicone wipe pad and then wipe on the Y axis. But I don’t know what the coordinates are for the center of the pad. I need the X position to place the head in the center of the pad.

I run other CNC machines. They all output current head position which makes it easy when I need to write custom G-code to do something.

1 Like

Why not just have it wipe in a square or circle when it’s on the pad? Sorta like at the end of the plate at start of print.

1 Like

I cannot precisely estimate the wiper coordinates, but you can calculate them from the g code and measurements.
Since your only problem regards the absolute position, my suggestion, and I may be wrong (give me a discount, but BL made me lazy on the g-code edition), is to switch for relative coordinates and afterwards back to absolute ones.

E.g.

;===== extra nozzle whipping==========
G91; Relative coordinates

G0 X## Y## ; whatever you need to do in your movement. Remember to came back.

G90; Abslute coordinates

I may be wrong, and this will lead to a catastrophic outcome.
To get the relative coordinate, pause the extruder at one of the coordinates you define on your code and use the vernier calliper to measure the distance. In reality, if you do this, you can also get the absolute coordinates of the whipper.

I always thought the toolhead was already way in the back during the whipping stage, so I don’t understand how you will wipe it. Maybe it relates to the silicone whimper from the A1 you installed in a different location.

@Olias, thanks for teaching a new feature.

4 Likes

@johnfcooley And what are the coordinates for the pad? That’s the issue. I can’t find where it outputs current head position when I jog it over to the wiper.

@JayZay Thank you. I believe this is the next best thing to do. I’m comfortable going between absolute and relative coordinates. It’s a bit more work and hopefully I’ll have time later this week to try this.

I’m fairly new to Bambu. The interface is not as informative as I would like, but I guess that’s the hazards of buying a closed system.
I read somewhere that I can execute G-code straight from an SD card?
Maybe I can run some tests this way without running a full print job from the slicer.

First I wasn’t providing a solution I was asking a question.
The last one I’ll ask you.

Since this is tagged X1 Series, the z-position should not be imortant for a wipe in the location of the wipe roller even if you have replaced it. Nozzle and wipe roller are always at the same relative height as the wiper.
As for the y-position, you may able to backtrack from a known position. Home may be a good reference for that. You’ll need to record how often you used which control panel movement step.
However, there may be a much easier way regarding wiping at every layer change in both x and y, you can prime the nozzle at each layer by enforcing a prime tower (smooth timelapse video).
If that does not move zits and blobs to the tower rather than the model, look at retract and wipe settings (and of course ensure dry filament).

@EnoTheThracian Backtracking from a known position is also a great idea. Thank you. I bought an SD card today and plan to write some custom G-code to home and then move close to where it should be without crashing. From there I should be able to jog into position counting my jog clicks. Awesome idea, thank you.

As for the prime tower, I was doing this along with wiping on the roller (and now silicone wipe pad) every layer change. I still had issues with oozing. I think it’s because I’m printing a bit warmer due to the part must have excellent layer adhesion. I do get better quality prints when I turn down the temps a bit, but then I lose the layer adhesion that is required for the part. The X1C is still fairly new to me and I’m still tuning the PETG settings.

The filament is dry. Good to point that out, though.

1 Like

BL PETG has had its share of adventures. Not sure about the PETG HF, but maybe this is of help for PETG: [SOLVED] Bad quality when printing PETG