Elegoo PETG Rapid Suggestions?

Bambu P1S with AMS

This is my first post on this forum, so please forgive any errors in subject matter or etiquette. I’ve been 3D printing for a month, so a newbie, but many hours already in.

I was going to purchase only Bambu PETG-HF, but they are sold out of the colors I want. So, I did some research and tried one spool of Elegoo PETG Rapid based on the reviews. I tried a few different configurations, including the Bambu PETG-HF, with mixed results. Then knocked down the print speed to 250 and flow to 20, bed temperature to 75. What you see is what I got printing several test prints. The changes in the settings didn’t make much difference. Does anyone know what could cause this random bubble pattern?

Otherwise the layers tight and adhesion is good. The models are very strong and other than these anomalies, the finished products appear as good as the bambu-HF results.

Elegoo Roll Suggested Settings:

  • Print Temp 230-260 C
  • Bed Temp 70 -90C
  • Print Speed 30-600

I simply used the settings for BL PETG-HF. Had no issues with that after drying, except that glossy finish.

Welcome to the forum.

I have the same filament in the same color. This issues is because your filament has moisture. Dry it longer at 60°C for 4-12 hours. Weigh the filament before, during, and after drying to confirm moisture removal. Elegoo filaments have plastic spools, making it easier to track weight changes; paper spools may absorb moisture and skew results. I weigh my filament every 4 hours or leave it overnight. Weigh it before sealing with desiccant and again before use—if the weight hasn’t increased, it’s still dry.

Note that it is not uncommon to see a shrinkage of anywhere from 4-12g. That’s 4-12ml or 4-12cc of moisture. To put that in perspective, a shot glass is about 44cc and teaspoon is about 5cc.

You should engage in this practice before attempting any settings with any hydroscopic filaments like PETG.

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I agree, those bubbles love to appear if the filament is not dry enough.
The scale thing is a great idea and I can only hope more users will use a scale to actually check how dry their filament is.
Sadly we still don’t have the ideal filament that won’t require drying while also having all the physical and chemical properties we need - maybe one day…

Olias, Thank you for your reply. I’ll dry it and try again. May I ask what settings you are using for the filament?

Here you go.

Here is a side by side against Generic PETG. You can load that filament profile then save it under a unique name and then use this side by side to make changes accordingly.

Olias,

Thank you very much for that. I have been experimenting all morning and I did have one profile like yours. The fan speed was extremely high on the first couple of layers and the print stuck to the bed. I damaged the test part trying to remove it. I then tried the Bambu PETG-HF settings and that was the best result of five different profiles.

That said, I will try your profiles and see what happens. You taught me a few new things, including the compare option. Thanks for that!

One more question please, I will be making mostly functional parts, do you think I should use PETG exclusively? Also, for $7 per roll difference, do you think I should just buy the Bambu PETF-HF as opposed to the Elegoo Rapid?

I too mostly make functional parts. As far as Elegoo vs Bambu goes. I purchased the Bambu HF primarily because I needed to hit the minimum order value to get free shipping and to also see what the fuss was. I have to say, it prints extremely well, better than any of their previous filaments I’ve used before. But that’s not saying much. I have a number of Bambu PLA in matte and silk that are in my view, worthless ■■■■. Their PLA is OK but just OK, definitely not worth the extra 40-70% extra unless you need it for AMS.

That said, Elegoo PETG at the price I paid is a far better value in my experience. However, here are some other PETG’s I also used that I’ve had good luck with.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1RP768Y/ 3DHoJor $13.00
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPF7FDTG/ Elegoo $13.00
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B4XFJQ9/ CC3D Grey $13.00
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BV2J697S/ Firos $12.00
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHLJWK6S/ HZST3D(same as CC3D) $15.00
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYMBFZJG/ Kaaber $12.00
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082WR3G2L/ CC3D Clear Paid $15.00

Having said that, for functional parts rivaling near injection molded strength. I am very partial to PC filament. It is not always the prettiest but if one uses 999 wall thickness at 0% infill, you get a structure that rivals anything out there. It also machines well. In fact, I no longer use heated brass inserts but instead just tap the holes using a tap of appropriate threads and it holds better than brass inserts especially for deep holes.

If you’re going to spend money, it would better be spent on something like this.

Both of these are CC3D or HZST3D, just the boxes have different print.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SXS6NP/

You have been more than generous with your time, and it is appreciated. I am not going to be printing parts that require anything near injection molded strength. I tried your settings, and they worked well. Although that first line on the front of the build plate is exceedingly difficult to remove. The Bambu stuff comes right up.

I have two goals.

  1. I want multiple colors but don’t want to stock PLA and PTEG of every color if I can avoid it. I assume PTEG can do anything PLA does but better. (I know there are visual differences in the final product)

  2. I want to be fairly certain that the Elegoo Rapid PETG is at least as good as the Bambu PETG-HF in print quality and strength before I order 10KG.

I can get $5.00 off each KG at Bambu and free shipping with this size order. This makes the price $11.00 pr KG for Elegoo Rapid PETG and $18.00 per KG for Bambu PETG-HF, or $7.00 (40%) difference. Is it worth it?

Thank you again.

Is 40% worth it? That’s a personal decision. For me personally, I say a resounding NO!!

However, my take on this hobby is that it can quickly get out of hand. I spent $600 on my P1P, only to end up spending nearly that much again on upgrades and spare parts. Filament is like the part of the iceberg below the water—it can quickly get out of control. So, in my mind, I tamp down heavily on costs.

I’ve made two posts on this topic.

This one describes what motivates me in filament selection. When I first got my printer, I felt screwed by Bambu because I couldn’t get white or black PLA for weeks. In a way, they did me a favor. Now, I treat it like a competitive sport to see just how good of a deal I can get. But the real question is: If you could buy 6KG of filament and get another 4KG free, would you take that bet?

And this post on Fancy Schmancy filaments tells what I found behind the curtain. Many speculate that Bambu is utilizing Elegoo or Esun as their filament foundry. Maybe, maybe not, but one thing is for certain—their filament, like their support, has a very checkered history.

Regarding Elegoo PETG, here are my comments on their PLA, which was not good: ELEGOO Rapid PETG Filament - #2 by Olias. However, based on referrals from trusted folks in that thread, I purchased Elegoo PETG. Can it print as fast or as well as Bambu HF? So far, it has, but I will say the Bambu filament is slightly better—though not 40% better.

I also don’t trust Bambu’s consistency of late. There have been way too many stories posted here where people purchased bulk only to find that quality shifted dramatically from one end of the bulk carton to the next. If Bambu had Amazon-like return policies, I’d consider it risk-free but therein lies the rub, they have poor return policies and have proven time and again to force people to jump through hoops and in many cases, sing for their supper just to get customer service.


On the topic of being generous with my time. This is a community and sharing is what it’s all about. All I ask is as you gain experience, you’ll find you have something to share, make it meaningful and share willingly and you will have paid it forward.

Oh, I missed the original reference:

$70 in your pocket for 10 rolls of the same stuff. What’s not to like? Probably all 10 rolls are the same, so no need to calibrate against more than one of the ten rolls. Now, that’s being smart. :star_struck: Find a filament you like, and then buy wholesale. Good idea. Arguably both cheaper and more convenient, both at the same time. :man_facepalming: Winner, winner, chicken dinner!