Failed print, is any way to continue where it failed?

Hi!

i uploaded a Video on Youtube to show a problem in my last print because i couldn’t upload it here.

i suspect that this happened after i lowered the printer speed from 100% to 50% remotely in the android app.

Temp was 210 at generic PLA profile. is there any way to continue the printing where the printer bugged?
and any idea wtf may just happened?

i ussualy change the printer speed on my prusa when moon it’s about to end but prusa let you lower it with more options so i change from 100-95% 95-90% 90-85% and everytime it worked fine for me.

This might help you:

Not sure if you’ll be able to home it with such a large print though. Might need to remove the glass top if you’ve got one.

Only other option is probably to figure out how many layers printed, reslice it to only print the remaining layers, and fuse them together. You can print some additional layers for safety and then block sand the additional layers off until they match up nicely (would have to be a large enough block to sand the entire opening at once so its even). I don’t think any of these options are ideal, as you’re probably going to have a layer shift that’s pretty apparent no matter what.

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Yeah there is one thing I miss on the P1p that I had on my previous printer. The old printer would display the Layer number currently printing. And keep it there after it failed. I once had a failure on a big print, but I was able to use that value to slice a new piece to starting from that layer and print just the top part of the print.

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As far as i can see at 6:11 the filament stops feeding as the spool stops rotating. Can be a tangled or broken filament or a problem with the extruder or some of this sort …

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i didn’t noticed that. filament stopped moving and extruder continue operating.
this is strange, and never happened in any other printer

Got a similar prob few days ago, this is why it was soon obvious to me … had a network cable (sic!) hindering the filament spool a bit so the filament was squeezed into the spool and it finally got stuck. But your problem may, of course, have another root cause.

They have that in the firmware for the X1C, I imagine it will be coming in the next revision of the P1P firmware.

I managed to resume a print that failed but ran into another problem. After editing the gcode as described by the video Matt linked, my P1P picked up the print at the correct location/height.

I thought everything was successful until I noticed that no filament was being extruded. I can’t figure out what went wrong, but I’d really like to.

I’m running into this issue as well. Edited the Gcode to pick up where the print left off, but it is not actually extruding any new filament. Does anyone have any suggestions on what Gcode command is needed that might have been cut out?

Have you ensured the nozzle isn’t clogged?

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The cause of my particular original issue that caused my print to stop was my nozzle was clogged. However, I pulled it, cleared it, and I have re-loaded filament and can see it extrude just fine now during the loading process.

However when I use the modified Gcode, the printer head moves around to all the right spots but doesn’t actually push out any material. If I re-use most of the original Gcode, like the part that puts down the lines at the front of the plate to be analyzed by the scanner, it works fine. So there is something with the modified Gcode.

What is your process of editing the gcode and loading to the printer?

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Gcode exported from a slicing in Bambu Studio. I then edited the Gcode in Notepad following the instructions here: GUIDE: Resuming a failed 3D print — CNC Kitchen

Copy the text file ending in .gcode to the root of a Micro-SD card, ejecting it from my computer, sticking it in the X1C, and then executing the Gcode once it shows up under the file listing on the SD card.

I think I figured out the issue, I was missing the M83 command that instructs the computer to follow the relative exclusions on each G1 instruction line. I added that back in (originally cut it out following the instructions in the link) and now my 2+day print has resumed properly with ~9 hours to go. There is a little bit of a layer shift as I not only had to guess at the line to resume on but the print plate may not be in the exact same position it was in before.

Still a 2 &1/2 day completed print with a layer shift is better than an incomplete print and a waste over over 1/2 roll of filament.

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How did you manage the Z axis homing, you simply got rid of the homing command and started the print without homing ?

Exactly the question i have also.
I´ve edited the gcode but i can´t resume the print after teh broken filament in the hotend, cause the bed always starts z-homing so that i have to shut off the printer to not crash into the print.

Printer starts to clean nozzle etc. and bed drives to lowest position.
And now i have the problem that the bed is crashing on the bottom end position and the belt is making noises.
I just want to finish the 15 hour print., just an hour missing.

Is it possible to skip this initial bed homing in the startup sequence?
I think this bed homing starts before the edited gcode. but can´t find this line in the startup code

I think it is hidden here and get this initial homing from the firmware

; FEATURE: Custom
;===== machine: P1S ========================
;===== date: 20231107 =====================
;===== turn on the HB fan & MC board fan =================
M104 S75 ;set extruder temp to turn on the HB fan and prevent filament oozing from nozzle
M710 A1 S255 ;turn on MC fan by default(P1S)
;===== reset machine status =================
M290 X40 Y40 Z2.6666666
G91
M17 Z0.4 ; lower the z-motor current
G380 S2 Z30 F300 ; G380 is same as G38; lower the hotbed , to prevent the nozzle is below the hotbed
G380 S2 Z-25 F300 ;
G1 Z5 F300;
G90
M17 X1.2 Y1.2 Z0.75 ; reset motor current to default
M960 S5 P1 ; turn on logo lamp
G90
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
M73.2 R1.0 ;Reset left time magnitude
M1002 set_gcode_claim_speed_level : 5
M221 X0 Y0 Z0 ; turn off soft endstop to prevent protential logic problem
G29.1 Z0 ; clear z-trim value first
M204 S10000 ; init ACC set to 10m/s^2

;===== heatbed preheat ====================
M1002 gcode_claim_action : 2
M140 S55 ;set bed temp
M190 S55 ;wait for bed temp

;=============turn on fans to prevent PLA jamming=================

M106 P3 S180
;Prevent PLA from jamming

M106 P2 S100 ; turn on big fan ,to cool down toolhead

;===== prepare print temperature and material ==========
M104 S220 ;set extruder temp
G91
G0 Z10 F1200
G90
G28 X
M975 S1 ; turn on
G1 X60 F12000
G1 Y245
G1 Y265 F3000
M620 M
M620 S1A ; switch material if AMS exist
M109 S220
G1 X120 F12000

G1 X20 Y50 F12000
G1 Y-3
T1
G1 X54 F12000
G1 Y265
M400

M621 S1A
M620.1 E F523.843 T240

M412 S1 ; ===turn on filament runout detection===

M109 S250 ;set nozzle to common flush temp
M106 P1 S0
G92 E0
G1 E50 F200
M400
M104 S220
G92 E0
M73 P0 R952
G1 E50 F200
M400
M106 P1 S255
G92 E0
G1 E5 F300
M109 S200 ; drop nozzle temp, make filament shink a bit
G92 E0
M73 P0 R951
G1 E-0.5 F300

G1 X70 F9000
G1 X76 F15000
G1 X65 F15000
G1 X76 F15000
G1 X65 F15000; shake to put down garbage
G1 X80 F6000
G1 X95 F15000
G1 X80 F15000
G1 X165 F15000; wipe and shake
M400
M106 P1 S0
;===== prepare print temperature and material end =====

Sorry I missed your question.

If I remember correctly, I followed the instructions in the CNC Kitchen link which I believe include removing the homing instructions. I think it said “remove everything before X” which would have included the homing instructions.

For the record my airless basketball eventually split/broke the top half off after several bounces because I didn’t guess correctly the exact layer line that the printer clogged at. I think I was too high.

I found some solvent to fuse TPU together like Gloop does for PLA, but since this was flexible PLA (so neither the solvent or PLA Goop worked), I ended up using a torch and meting the two parts together. It’s ugly and sometimes bounces funny, but it works.