I am constantly running into this issue. On certain prints they start to unravel during the start of my printing as shown in the screenshots. I am using the P1S printer with AMS. I am using PETG filaments on Textured PEI Plate and also tried this on Smooth PEI Plates/High Temp Plate setting on Bambu Lab O1S 0.4 nozzle that came with the printer. I have only had this printer for about a month now. What am I doing wrong here?
@USMC03, have you had the same issues with PLA?
I am dealing with some adhesion issues with a large print at the edge of the plate, but I think that using the glue stick will solve it. Of course I am not using PETG.
It looks like there something else going on maybe (prints 2,4 look like classic spaghetti). How’s the filament moisture?
~jperry13
filament moisture, I don’t know. How can I test this? These were brand new.
You can’t really test this. The recommended practice for PETG, among other materials, is to dry it. Yes, it comes in a vacuum sealed bag but that doesn’t mean it was completely dry before it got sealed.
Best practice for me when using PETG is to dry it in a Filament Dryer (like this one https://a.co/d/ixOyPqn) prior to using it. If you have a Y-Splitter, or any splitter for that matter, you can also print it straight from the dryer using extra PTFE tubes. This would require you not to print from the AMS though. Otherwise, dry the filament first then pop it into the AMS and you should get better results.
If you’re still getting adhesion issues, I would look into using glue. I mainly print PETG on the Engineering Plate with Glue and that has worked very well for me.
Hope this helps.
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Thank you guys. I was looking into buying this one https://a.co/d/2pinqHI
I didn’t think I would have needed to go through this as the reason I bought this was because of the fact that it was less trouble to work with. Not so much.
Not so much the same with PLA
PETG is great when it works, but is not as easy as PLA. There’s generally more tinkering thats involved when wanting to print in PETG, regardless of printer. Some folks have it easier than others.
Good luck!
I didn’t know what I was doing when I bought them. I will be looking more carefully next time.
Thank you for the information.
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No problem! PLA is generally the easiest but as you venture out to other materials, PETG, ABS, ASA, PA, TPU, etc., it’s basically something new to learn. There are some basic principles that carry over but since each material behaves differently to speed and temperature, you’re basically starting over again.
Happy Printing!
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I recently did the same thing. Thought I was buying PLA primary colors, but it was PETG… I have started printing with it to see how it works, and haven’t had any issues thus far. But I don’t have my AMS yet and I’m keeping the size of the prints small.
Looking forward to seeing how it works.
~jperry13
It’s worth persevering with PTEG and understanding how it prints. Especially if you want to print anything that goes inside an enclosure, because you will need PETG to handle the heat. As @Pengu said, PLA is the easiest. I’ve just ventured into the world of TPU. I’m managed to work with PLA, PETG, ABS and ASA, but TPU has been much harder to work with. I’ve found that i really need to slow the print down with TPU if you get to TPU in the future. 
I think I will wait a bit on that lol having enough trouble with what I have now. When I get a better understanding of all this 3D printing stuff I will be venturing out.
Thanks guy,
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I’ve not yet had issues with bed adhesion but layer adhesion. What have helped me is to increase the nozzle temperature to 265 and decrease the acceleration (1000 seem to work, but possibly higher too).
Yes, TPU requires slow speed because of how flexible it is. These profiles helped me use TPU
(X1C) Printables
(P1) Printables
PETG does this for me if I don’t store it in an airtight bag with dessicant.
This looks like wet filament.
If you do not have a filament dryer, you can dry it in an enclosed printer overnight on the heat bed, or use a food dehydtaror, or a food oven on low power.
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