I was able to get the bulk of it off using what plumbers would call “persuasion”. The brim and some of the flow purge are still on, but there’s nothing to grab onto.
I’m guessing that if I print something new on top of it, then it will come off the plate with the new print. At least that has worked in the past with other filament types, so I’m hoping ABS too.
I did my first ABS print about a month ago. For no real reason, just to get more experience with 3D printing so I can shake being a “n00b”. My P1S printed the ABS print flawlessly with no issues (I used Bambu ABS). I tried to vapor smooth it but it didn’t work very well and it seems that the Bambu ABS is not ideal for vapor smoothing.
I’m still not seeing a compelling reason to print in ABS, unless you need something that can withstand higher temperatures. If you want a shiny finish, instead of vapor smoothing an ABS print, the Bambu PLA silk filament is ALMOST as shiny as vapor smoothed ABS (assuming the ABS brand is suitable for vapor smoothing).
Glad you are happy with the ABS prints now 
I personally got no success with ABS on the textured plate, but using the smooth PEI or High temp plate stuck out the box. Sometimes with intricate parts I still get some issue for which I then apply some glue.
Best,
Darren
I tried ASA for the first time on my PS1 and ended up clogging the nozzle as well as jamming up the extruder and the AMS unit. My bad, I had had two spools of Flashforge filament delivered and mixed up the PLA with the ASA. Be warned, it took me most of the day to fix it. That said, once I’d repaired the printer, the ASA printed beautifully using Generic ASA settings, and the price on Amazon was only £23.99, so not much more expensive than ABS. (Just checked the price again and it’s now on offer at £19.99)
Forgot to mention that I was printing on smooth PEI plate and didn’t use any glue
Interesting, because I had the exact same experience.
First print was nice. Then did some minor corrections.
My next print was just terrible.
I tried again the next day, just as terrible.
Did 2 more tries, both were bad.
Honestly, I have no clue where it went wrong, to the point that I even start to doubt if I have to recalibrate.
One thing to try when you have parts sticking to well is to throw the build plate into the freezer for 5 minutes or so and see if it comes off right after you take it out.
FYI: to remove ABS leftovers, like bits of brim, after removing the parts I simply put the plate back in the printer, set the bed to 90-100oC, wait 10-15’. That softens the ABS and it comes off easily. Same w ASA.
Good suggestion, and next time I’ll try that. Managed to get it off by printing large objects over it, and then it fused into them and came off when they did.
But I like your idea. Makes me wonder: would using an “instant freeze spray” also nail it in just seconds?
likely would but IMO it will put more thermal stress on the build plate and involves an extra cost for the spray.
Very thin brims can be hard to get off the plate. The plate is textured with deep groves and valleys all over it. Take something that is pointy and carefully pry at the edges. Even your nails can get a bit to lift up which then you can pull off the rest with. I printed a bunch of parts with ABS at 100c with no adhesion problems. They were with 0.2 nozzle and the lowest layer height. I found that it was easiest to take off the brims around 50c rather than waiting till they were room temperature. YMMV.
Bambu says this about acetone and their PEI plate:
Do not clean the Textured PEI with Acetone, as it will damage the PEI surface
Yes, I just recently acquired a tool that’s great for that:
I’m reluctant to try it on a brim though, as I don’t want to risk scratching the build plate. After reading your post, though, I may revisit that.
I believe you’re advice about acetone and PEI is correct. I’ve switched to g10 instead of PEI, and AFAIK it’s compatible with acetone. In all respects, I feel as though it is superior, though textured PEI has a place if I want that kind of texture. From what I’ve read some people even mix ABS with acetone to make their own DIY print adhesive for glass and similar build plates. I haven’t yet tried that, as I don’t know what a good mix ratio would be, but it sounds interesting. I don’t know of an easy way to use glass on an X1, so it’s probably not a good test platform for that.
REPORTING BACK: Inspired by your suggestion, I submerged the build plate in ice water. That pretty quickly helped get most of it off, except for the mouse ears, which were still stuck on hard. However, after letting it soak in the ice water for 15 minutes to half an hour, those eventually came off as well. Not sure exactly how the soaking helped, but I’m guessing the water might have penetrated behind the mouse ear plastic and dissolved the vision miner bed adhesive, resulting in the bond breaking.
Next time I’ll try your method directly though, since the freezer is doubtless colder than the 0C of ice water. 
yeah mouse ears and/or brims can sometimes be challenging to get started for removal but it is far easier on a freezing cold build plate vs. room temp one
My tool of choice to lift those pesky brims is a narrow (50mm, 2") spring steel putty spatulas on which I put a slight radius at the corners with a finishing stone.
I did use printed putty knives to avoid damaging the build surface. They helped. I worry that metal will scratch the build plate.
It doesn’t take much for the printed knives to lose their edge, though, so I end up printing new ones when that happens. For that reason, I wouldn’t hold out my method as an example worth following.
As stated previously I slightly round off the sharp corners of those spatulas to prevent scratching of the PEI surface if the spatula edge is not held flat against the build plate surface
OK, I’ll give it a try. How much of a grind radius do you give the two corners?
small radius about 0.5mm and then take of the burrs that are left on the flats where that radius was applied
Mine came out a blobby mess. Good first layer and no warping. But any small detail looked burned.
REPORTING BACK: I put the build plate in the freezer overnight and then liberated the remainder of the ABS this morning. Yes, the freezer does work better than ice water, and it’s also easier on my fingers because they stay warmer. It’s a bit of a race against time though, because the build plate being thin metal starts heating up (well, trending toward ambient air temperature) pretty much immediately after removal from the freezer.