Today my first prints with ABS on the P1S, and I’m not very much impressed.
Fiberlogy Black ABS
Nozzle: 250 - 250 (Fiberlogy said max. 260)
Bed: 90 - 90
Put this in the filament settings in Studio. First print was okay, but not as smooth as I’m used with PLA. The second print just came loose about 75% in. Was trying to print the LED-raiser from DutchDeveloper from printables.
It looks too cold to me, try using the stock bambu abs or generic settings, initial 260, 270 for the rest. I’ve used no name brand and bambu and there doesn’t appear to be much difference with ABS. Bambu ABS shrinks a bit less.
Trying that tomorrow then.
I used an old ABS roll from alfawise which must be 4 years old and it prints fine with 260/270 hotend and 95C bed although I don’t think you need ABS for the riser. I have the same printed in Sunlu PLA+ and when printing ABS the chamber temperature never reaches more than 40C, granted I have not printed huge things in ABS. The LEDs are also just barely warm, I think ABS for the riser is overkill.
Are you sure? Because in the description:
Make sure you print this either with Nylon or ABS so it can withstand the heat from the ledstrip and the heat from the enclosure.``
Guess there is only one wy to find out. Just going to print with normal Bambu PLA
It’s fine for me in PLA+ (sunlu indicates it can withstand higher temp than regular PLA) but if you want it to make sure it can withstand higher temperature, print it in PETG, ABS or Nylon is excessive.
Onmly have normal PLA from Bambu. So I try that first for now
It should work OK the riser is high there and the temperature should not reach temperature higher than PLA could withstand, I would only be concerned by items close to the bed like a led holder for instance. I use COB leds in my riser and it’s only slighly warm so not sure if SMT leds could reach higher temperature though. I would suggest testing temperature of your led to make sure and if it’s only slightly warm to the touch, it surely is below 45C.
I used the eSun ABS when I got a roll on sale. The have the BL printer settings listed, so you can create a custom filament profile. Worked perfectly.
One of the first objects was about 7 inches long.
BTW, brims are highly recommended for long ABS and ASA prints.
Try going down to 1/3 the speed on all speed settings. This has made my parts go from all failing to getting successful prints with good surface quality. I also dial down the travel movement speed as well to like 8k. Sometimes i go down to 1/4 speed settings. Bambu x1 and p1s is still 3 times as fast after the reduction as the other cheaper printers, and the success rate on prints goes up over 90 percent. Not sure why bambu insists on making everyone fail on their prints for a while till they figure it out. 3 times as fast is not enough for bambu they want to advertise 4x and 5x. Also, why not go with ASA instead of ABS. Its widely recognized as the easier to print alternative with very similar qualities
The creator of the raiser advised ABS or Nylon, so I was going with that. normally I only use PLS snd now and then PETG. Might be worth a try one day.
Hey fellow BLLED user.
ABS is harder to print than ASA.
I would suggest ASA, considering the temps you will be seeing.
In regards to the print itself. Print one part at a time, or print by object, don’t let the part cool down.
Pre-heat the chamber with the build plate in the middle running 100C for about 30-45 minutes, depending on your ambient temp. You want to have about 50C in the chamber for good printing with those materials.
If you have a blanket, you can also cover the printer to help with temps inside. P1S and X1 have horrible thermal insulation.
I’d argue why go with ASA when you have ABS? I understand ASA is a slight step ahead, but that’s not a reason to leave ABS of the shelf and buy some ASA. Now… if you are asking why stock up on ABS instead of ASA, that would be a valid question with only one good answer, IMO. Cost. ABS is generally about 10-20% cheaper. LOL, although Bambu is currently selling ASA 10% under their ABS.
For the OP,
I do find I need to use glue with ABS on occasion, even with the textured plate. These printers do offer a “Easy Button” experience for most stuff, but ABS, ASA, and PC are still challenging depending on the geometry.
Was just thinking of trying that. Tomorrow 
This is true but do remember that ABS is part of the “Filament Membership Program” and ASA is not so it can be secured at a 40% discount.
I use glue on all my plates, I just make a Z with the liquid glue then use a 70% IPA wipe wrapped up small to dilute and spread an even layer all over the plate. I do this before a large print only, the rest of the time I just print as is or use a wipe again to take away the marks from previous print. You need very little. I have nothing against using glue, I’d much rather clean the base than throw away a failed print. I never use brims either, unless of course its a tall part with small base area. I only use ABS & TPU occasionally.
I always print ABS at 100c bed with my P1S using a Textured PEI. Default 90 I was getting worse adhesion. Bambu ABS default seems to be 270. Have you changed anything else in your filament profile? Keeping door closed? What’s your ambient temperature? What nozzle diameter?
The third picture looks just wacko. I don’t quite understand how you have the filament strands in there. Can you explain more?
In that picture, the print was just knocked off. Don’t know what else happened there. Print is now on the way. If this one is failing as well, I’ll try to reset the filament options to standard again
So… I used some glue, just enough to keep it on the plate, set the bed temperature to 100c, and the printspeed on ‘silent’. Now the pieces came out great.
Now I’m no longer not impressed
As an aside, I’m just starting on printing ABS, so I’m following in your footsteps. Yesterday I opened up my first roll of ABS and started to print the temp tower. It didn’t adhere. So, I cleaned the build plate and applied vision miner as per directions, and to be doubly sure, I printed the temp tower with a large brim, and I cranked up the build plate temperature to 100C. Suffice it to say, I overshot by a mile: It basically welded the ABS to the garolite I was printing on. I broke the temp tower trying to remove it, and the base is still welded on. Now I’m not sure if I can even get it off without damaging the garolite.
Suffice it to say, I learned my lesson: your slow and steady incremental approach is the way to go.
Edit: it just occured to me I can probably dissolve it off with acetone. One of the unspoken advantages of ABS.
