First Benchy printed with Bambu Lab X1 & CHT Nozzle

@froboz & @DzzD the more deal with the topic the better and the more likely a good solution comes out. there it is rather unimportant whether a possible solution 1 times or 3 times was mentioned. finally it is about finding a solution and there every thought is valuable :wink:


Since the link is broken, here’s a new one

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No need to use the CHT and have the printer complain about offsets. The same store on AliExpress that sells the hotend w/ removable nozzle now has a smaller CHT style nozzle available.

[](https://Haldis 3D 500℃ Upgraded Heated Copper Plated Heater Block Repair Part,CHT Brass)


im currently using the bondtech CHT with great success, just ordered these though and am excited to see how they will perform


Thanks, Order passed :slight_smile:

I personally wouldn’t use a brass brush, I designed some for an IDEX printer and the filament cools and sticks to the brass. IMO the roller idea is better as a wiper, and I also tried silicon blades too.



Got my CHT nozzle the other day, 0.6. Using the Bambu White PLA that came with my P1P, I got a decent quality 12 minute benchy. Wanted to know the real max flow rate of the new nozzle. Ran the max flow rate test in the Soft Fever fork of Bambu Slicer. Did great up to 45mms then started getting missed steps, with 1 min to go at 50mms the print stopped due to a thermal runaway error.

25 min benchy on the left 12 min on the right. This is before I installed the extra cooling fan, so the bow is warped.


Hatchbox PETG 255c CHT 0.6, 15mms - 50mms

Made it all the way to 50mms without setting off the thermal runaway. Layers look ok up to 40mms, but layer adhesion was terrible after 20mms


I received and try the Aliexpress clones (0.4 & 0.6 mm nozzles), for now I only tried the .4mm nozzle and the results are already greats !

I tried to print same gcode that I already printed with original .4mm Bambu nozzle and I can say that it works perfectly and I got same quality and absolutly no more issues relative to height, leak or thermal runaway that I was getting with the original CHT.

Then, I tried up to 35mm³/s prints and it also works great and the heater can sustain the temperature easily (probably related to the smaller & higher nozzle size).

The 0.4mm nozzle, with 0.28 layer height enable to use 350mm/s for Inner wall, Sparse infill & internal solid infill without decrease in quality.

Another great benefit is that because heat is better transfered to the plastic, it is possible to print faster with lower temperature. Before if I wanted to print fast I had to use the highest temperature of the filament.

Important last note / downside : printing with such high flow is interresting only with a good / quality filament (esun PLA+ works great), low cost PLA introduce a lot of issues.

I will give feedback on 0.6mm nozzle later.


Let me know about 0.6mm as I am about to order it from aliexpress. How long did it take to come? Do you need to do any change in bambu lab?

Send links if you have them so I can be sure to order the correct ones.

Does 500C mean it will work with PEEK now?


This doesn’t increase the printers abililty to heat the hotend, perhaps it means the hotend would survive 500c. Since the printer is unable to reach such temperatures that’s irrelevant. It just lets you use non bambu lab nozzles.


As said above no it wont enable to reach 500°C, and even if you add a second ceramic heater in parallele wich is easily doable nothing is made on this printer to print at a such high temperature.

You may be able to reach 500°c but I guess you will have some parts that will began to melt and the heatbreaker wont be able to break heat enought etc… etc…


Good to know.

Do you just order CHT brass 0.6mm (7.99) or do you need the copper hot section ($15.99)?

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You need to buy everything depending on what you already have in spare :

Step 1 : Change the nozzle of the aliexpress hotendblock with the CHT nozzle
Step 1 : Once you get everything, for heater, thermistor, fan and grease follow this second part of this video tutorial :

I dont get why you changed the nozzle.
I mean, what performance issue did your printer have that this new nozzle solves?


This seems like too much work, why isn’t alibaba selling this ready made?


Don’t worry, I’m certain that will happen soon.

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This have two major improvments :

1 - Increase the maximum flowrate :

  • using high quality filament you can print with reliably a flowrate of 35mm³/s, this for exemple enable to print between 300mm/s and 350mm/s with 0.28 layer height usingg 0.4mm nozzle
  • it make printing with 0.6mm with higher layer height (0.4mm) possible at high speed, very helpfull for fast prototyping

2 - A better transfer of heat between nozzle and plastic :

  • this mean your plastic temperature is closer to what you set as printing temperature, less variations in plastic temperature related to speed change while printing
  • also, you dont have to “overheat” when you want to print faster.

Note that it have only an interrest if you use high quality filament that can support fast printing…


Here is an exemple about speed for 100x100x100mm cube 0.28 layer height, 0.4mm nozzle:

  • Bambulab profile with bambula filament default setting 22mm³/s : total time 2h57
  • Modified profile + max flow filament 35mm³/s : total time 2h12

Last but not least “Same quality”.

Exemple of what you can set as speeds for 0.28 layer height 0.4 nozzle (right is original):


This seems like too much work, why isn’t alibaba selling this ready made?

It can be impressive if you do not do a lot of DIY but believe me that’s really easy, just require to follow carefully the video tutorial


I bought this clone hot end to try cheap high flow with copper insert V6 nozzles. With those nozzles the safe volumetric flow rate limit I get for for PLA is up from around 20 mm^3/s to 35 mm^3/s. That increases print speed although only significantly when using larger nozzles.

Additionally screw in nozzles are cheap and easier to change.


The brush mod is my favorite mod to date. No more nozzle dragging a tail of purge into the first layer. It works flawless and keeps the nozzle cleaner.