the brush mod is not really good. its in the nature of wire brushes that stuff just sticks to the bristles. this works a couple of times until the brush is gunked up with ■■■■ which deposits again onto the hotend.
2 Likes
So I’m a week or so I to using the aftermarket hotend and I got the CHT clone from the same seller on a 0.4. on esun pla + on max vol flow I got around 43mm and on gitrAm petg I got I think around 23mm. (Prior to this I made temperature towers and bumped the temperature up to the hottest without it looking bad) so an increase of 10 or 15 degrees I can’t remember. Anyway I can print esun pla plus on ludicrous mode without any failure. Dimensionally accurate as such that parts can screw together which was a relief. Petg on ludicrous didn’t fail but was alot matter and dull but again worked a charm. Top layers were abit rough tho. The above had been my experience.
I will use the normal nozzles for fiber filled filaments so I will only be using the aliclones for pla/abs/petg.
So about the 0.6 nozzles. Historically I’ve always used 0.5 hardened steel nozzles on my printers, they give me almost the same details of a 0.4 and don’t clog. With the improvement of slicer engines and high flow nozzle. Is the 0.6 cht clone worth putting on the printer (I usually make models twice the side and volume of a Human hand) they need some details likes holes and fillets but I never make toy models or figurines or anything like that. Almost exclusively smaller car parts. What are the advantages of a 0.6 in my use case? And what are the trade offs. Any advice would be appreciated
Also in regards to increasing the speeds in bambu or orca slicer. I just click on sport, are they’re any recommended guides on how the Accel and jerk control and all that work because it’s beyond me 
1 Like
The choice depends a lot on what kind of material you want to print and if you value print quality more then speed or vice versa.
A 0.6 nozzle is more or less a requirement for most reinforced filaments. A 0.4 might work, but it might be more prone to clogging also, depending on the filament.
If you do not print with such filaments, a 0.4 nozzle is usually the “to go” choice, but a 0.6 nozzle, specially with the CHT clone setup will increase print speeds, but even with 0.4 nozzle the printer is already very fast.
With arachne slicer settings, the loss of details is not as bad as it sounds as you can print smaller then the nozzle diameter, within limits of cause.
It really depends on what you value more and if the quality is still “good enough” with a 0.6 nozzle.
2 Likes
While on the topic, the chinese extruder claims up to 500 degree temps, have someone printed above 300 on p1p?
1 Like
It is probably a bad idea, heatbreak will have trouble and you will probably clog your hotend
Yes, I made some mods to an IDEX printer using wire brushes as wipers… big mistake they
ooze cooled and stuck to the brass bristles rendering them useless, and skipped stepper steps
3 Likes
This morning I gave the hotend with Bondtech CHT nozzle a try. Worked like charm for 5 prints. Now - all of a sudden - the X1 cannot longer home Z. The bed stops before the nozzle is touching the bed. Already did a factory reset but now the printer is no longer able to calibrate. Doesn’t matter if I use the Bambu Hotend or the Ali Hotend (with included nozzle and BondTech CHT).
Any ideas please?
1 Like
It can happen if your PEI plate is touching something before the nozzle, It happen to me one time because the PEI plate was touching the purging bucket at the back (the semi-transparent part that exceeds a little), or if your bed is forcing too much for any reason…
2 Likes
I don’t believe this issue is related to the nozzle/hotend swap
As @DzzD suggests there is more likely something stuck somewhere in the z axis area
Make sure you check the z rods and that the build plate isn’t hitting anything before the nozzle touches
4 Likes
I should also add that especially when printing fast at times the purged filament doesn’t land in the chute
I’ve been pushing my speeds with the factory hotend and have had filament poop fly away from the puke bucket and end up in all kinds of wierd spots
It’s fine at regular normal speeds but when your speeds are in the realm of ridiculous sometimes it just doesn’t make it to the toilet on a purge lol
For reference on the speeds my print speeds are far beyond what would be considered plausible on a pretty much stock machine and no they are not for all prints just that stupid little boat and flow tests or for finding artifacts
350mms outer and inner walls
85% small perimeters
800mms sparse and internal infill
700mms top surface and gap infill
1000mms travel
Accelerations normal printing 20000mms/³
Outer 7500mms/³
Inner 8000mms/³
Bridge 70%
Sparse and internal infill 100%
First layer 600mms/³
Top surface 3500mms/³
Travel 20000mms/³
Print temp 227
Flow ratio 0.9875
Pressure advance 0.02
Max vol speed 21mm³/s
Layer time 4s
No fans for the first 2 then 100%
That is just an example of my most common draft settings
I’ll go with a 0.28mm layer hight and use variable layer hight for overhangs bringing it down to 0.08mm
With all of that sometimes my printer throws up a bit and misses the puke bucket
Try a benchy with those baseline settings but I wouldn’t suggest them on most normal prints, ask me how I know lol
Also due to the single aux fan it helps to orientate the print where the cooling is most required, for that damned boat I point the bow towards the fan and move it towards the back a bit and a bit more forward
Still waiting on my second aux fan so I can figure something out
4 Likes
Anyone found already a cht hardened steel nozzle clone which fits in the aftermarket hotend with the correct length?
I havent, but I have the aftermarket hotend & im going to modify it to accept the cht bimetal nozzle.
It looks like if I drill out the shoulder in the top of the heatsink where the heat break currently stops, it will allow the heatbreak to move 2mm further into the heatsink. I think this would get the cht nozzle close enough to factory nozzle height, so nozzle wiper wont have to be repositioned.
Ive ordered some spares incase I mess it up. Ill follow up with result.
1 Like
If you read this thread, you will see that it has already been tested and this does not works as well as expected, CHT clone are best option, I use them for months now and they work like a charm.
2 Likes
Guessing you may already have seen this, but I laugh every time I see it:
3 Likes
I have been following this thread, thanks for your contribution here & in other threads as well. I appreciate it.
I use this printer primarily with carbon fiber reinforced filament. The brass cht clones are insufficient for this application & the factory hotend cannot deliver volumetric speed sufficient to meet my cycle time targets. Hopefully I can find a solution sooner than later.
1 Like
Yeah…You can increase the mm^3 in your settings to the point it will jock up the print head. The stock settings are waaaayyy to conservative on larger nozzles and especially if you use the CHT Clone.
Orca Slicer and run the calibrations for each filament and the print head you intend on using.
1 Like
Did you ever find a solution to this?
I am having the same problem but not after changing to a 3rd party nozzle setup but instead after putting a GoodPlate in my X1C.
Now, when wanting to print I first have to do manual homing, as apparently the printer stores that value for around 10 minutes. After that stept, commencing a print works fine.
If I don’t do the manual homing frist and simply strat the print, the printer doesn’t consecutively ‘tap’ the build plate in the beginning of its ‘nozzle cleaing’ procedure; instead, it barely makes contact between plate and nozzle, then recedes the build plat down by 3cm and repeats this process 3-5 times until aborting the print with a message along the lines of ‘failed to home the z axis’ and an error code.
Nothing is stuck to the build plate, it doesn’t touch any part of the printer and I can reproduce this behaviour reliably.
Did either of you run the calibration from the printer settings/Utilities screen?
1 Like
I did, it made no difference to this specific behavior.
■■■■.
You may have to return your printer to original condition and try to print. With the Goodplate and aftermarket hot end, you voided any hope of BL support to fix that problem.
With the printer in “as shipped” condition, and the problem is still there, then BL support may be able to help if no one else here can.