I recently got the X1C, and I can not get the first layer to stick. (yes, adhering works with the pre-saved models perfectly).
Nothing I upload myself (I know that makes me look stupid…), but even models that work on my “Cobra Max” don’t want to stick, so I know, in theory, that they should…
What I read on the troubleshooting was changing the cooling layers from 1 to 3. That was the first thing I attempted.
I also changed the nozzle temperature to put it into the range given on the box of my Anycubic filament: “200 deg.”
Also, I turned the build plate temperature from 35 to 60deg
Does anyone have further tips and suggestions?
I am looking forward to them.
Sören
What build plate are you using? I have not had any problems with PLA and BBL’s standard PLA profile, so this seems a bit off. The bed temp, I guess for the cool plate, is also way too high. Have you cleaned the plate before using it? Used glue stick?
Sorry if you already did these things. And they arent in a specific order.
-clean build plate with dish soap and water. Dry with paper towel. not a wash cloth with fabric softener on it.
-use proper build plate temp. For cold plate 35. If you’re using another plate, set that plate as the one being used in the slicer.
-make sure to dry the filament good. When I do have bad adhesion problems, its almost always this.
-factory reset all settings and use bambu presets as a starting point.
-tram the bed.
-compare your settings to the settings of an stl that works for you.
-calibrate the filament.
The bambu is going to want to run the filament hotter than normal depending on speed. Especially with a hardened nozzle.
I’m using the one that was included.
So I think the Cool plate PLA…??
Ok, so try putting it down again!
Yeah, I did clean it
Well, I did add glue, but I had the feeling that after it went through its prior process, everything was “Gone.” would that mean using more glue…??
Okay, so you would not encourage using alcohol for cleaning…??
Ok ill lower it again
There was a program for drying. I’ll give that a run…
I’m telling it to do bed leveling before everyone doesn’t know if that is useless…
Calibrate filament was a another set program right ill also give that a shot
Are you using an AMS? If so does it fully seal (and has silicon in it?)
Are you using the spool seperatly? If so it might be humidity?
Admittedly mine is ajar, as I have a larger 3rd party filament.
Just run the glue across sparingly. Clean it after about 10-15 prints with glass cleaner, and scrape off with a plastic scraper. Wipe excess clear, and apply glue again
I’ve only had mine 2 weeks, and the only issue is the AMS when I have a light weight spool in the 1st slot. The spool jumps everywhere, but I printed a spool holder (with 10mm ball bearings inside) and it now works fine.
I’ve only had a few issues, and I’ve moved the STl around by 90 degrees, and added support in some cases. I just use Bambu slicer.
If pre-saved models adhere, then all the comments about cleaning the plate are not going to help the issue because a dirty plate it not the problem.
You do need to make sure that the plate setting in the slicer matches the plate that you are printing with. If not, then the z offset will not be set correctly.
It’s set in the slicer to “Cool Plate/ PLA” and that is also the one I’m using.
I don’t know if that’s interesting to know, but the like “lines on the side” before the print stick and look good, too…
Also, I have only printed the pre-saved model with the Original green PLA from Bambu as i did not find out how to change the color for the pre-saved. i don’t know if that influences/triggers a new idea
Are the preloaded models small in comparison? If so, your comment…Always start by cleaning the plate.
@Sll Have ypu tried printing your model with that same green pla? Are you sitting the model flat to the surface in the slicer? Also, any pictures of the failed print or sliced model?
I never could get pla to stick to the cool plate, I use the engineering plate with bed temp set to 35c every once in a while I have to put a little hairspray on it butt other than that it prints great.
Just saw this…I had all sorts of issue using alcohol. IME never use alcohol esp with residues if you have glue.
This works 100% of the time, so well with no issues and any PLA so far
1.HOT soapy wash
2. Cool full rinse
3. Bed Temp 60 for first layer
For anyone searching
However I am here because i never use abs (always proto or 1 use molds) and ABS will not adhere without glue it seems
For sure
I did have issues…probs oily hands as often got a lot of stuff on during 1 day.
Those points just worked and nothing else required; alcohol is just another unneeded chemical. Sometimes my stuff on pei goes for a long time but then for some reason (maybe I touched the bed) and as soon as I do warm soapy wash…all good.
For ABS, after reading all the posts, same deal ie soapy wash but I had t make up spray bottle full of a couple of dissolved glue sticks and a light spray which dries on heatup seems to be a non toxic way to get it going
Toxicity is a major concern for me…the older you get the more it affects you…could care less when I was younger
BTW I would def love to see your prints eg something with at least 150mm square base in ABS without the corners lifting…that would be amazing and give me hope (ie without any adhesive)
I agree soap is better than IPA but more time consuming and not needed every time. I found that whats most important is what you dry it with. I use dishsoap every month or so(same time I clean the rods and belts) and ipa every time. Then I dry only with paper towels
What did you desolve the glue sticks in? Sounds like a good replacement for the people using hairspray.
For abs, you just need to get the chamber above 50c. I know its a pain and takes forever but thats my trick. Now I just use the plus 4 for abs, asa and nylon but the bambu will do it. A couple times, I had to drape a towel over the case (unsafe but worked for me. I wouldnt suggest anybody else do it unless youll be in the room with it)
