The first layers on this machine of late have been insanely good. That is all.
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No, they are definitely not â and the H2D is a terrible machine!
It doesnât even make me coffee! 
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I get good first layers with the right nozzle but not with the left nozzle. Seems like the nozzle is too close to the build plate. All the proposed countermeasures on the âfirst layer wikiâ didnât help. For now I resolve it by reducing first layer flow ratio to 0.9.
As Steve Jobs said : you are holding it wrong
Check if itâs seated properly, make sure the dual filament guide is doing its job, and donât forget to check the screws. I get equally good first layers on both nozzles, so itâs definitely possible â but I also know there have been some issues. My dual filament guide failed once and triggered a delightful little episode of micro-chaos 
Maybe I just havenât given it enough love lately⌠or itâs jealous of the X1 Carbon sitting half a meter away, soaking up all the attention 
I have the same problem. Supports final suggestion before hitting a roadblock was âadjust the z offsetâ.
Yes. That also works for me.
What you mean with dual filament guide? Screws on the hot end are secured.
This one:
The spring-loaded black part can sometimes get stuck and cause various issues, such as the filament not being cut properly or failing to load correctly. Itâs a good idea to inspect and reseat it if youâre experiencing any strange behavior related to filament handling.
Iâve been doing my first layer on a smooth plate at 0.2mm layer height at 300mm/s outer wall and 400mm/s infill without a single issue, perfect first layers. Havenât even done bed leveling in probably a dozen cycles of removing and replacing the plate and at least 150-200 print hours because it just doesnât need it. Cannot vouch for the textured bed as I havenât used it except for a few times when I first got the printer.
Iâve printed with ABS, ABS-GF, ASA, PETG, PETG-CF, PLA, PLA high flow, and PLA silk using the 0.4HF nozzles
Edit: the speed will be limited by Max flowrate but I typically increase that for my high flow nozzles, and even when I print PLA HF in ludicrous mode for non-asthetic/structural parts it still has never had an issue
For both nozzles? Itâs interesting there is such a divide in first layer experiences⌠I really wish to know what to do about my left nozzle being off. Iâve tried everything imaginable. Hope itâs a firmware thing and it gets resolved in a next version.
Iâll have a look at it. But think it maybe not a problem. The machine prints flawless, except for the first layer.
I was printing a cyberbrick model with really good print quality, on both my H2D and X1C, the X1 was good, the left nozzle on the H2 was great, the right is stunning. Basically imo, all first layers where possible should be on the right nozzle, being as on mine the left is probably about 95% of the right.
This is strangeâare the first layers printed in the same location on the build plate? For me, proper heat soaking is essential to achieve a consistent first layer across the entire surface.
With adequate heat soaking, I get equally good results from both the left and right nozzles.
Yeah, havenât had an issue with either nozzle at all. I would open a ticket since youâre having issues since they should work identically. Hopefully they can get it resolved for you!
Like I said earlier in my case support gave me a new heater, new nozzle etc, left just prints not as cleanly as the right. They wanted me to adjust the Z offset, but I told them its a temp solution (even says so on their wiki). I have heard a few people saying only their left nozzle prints weird, my guess is something to do with the nozzle lifting rail. IDK tho. Recently something that improved it insanely well but still isnt perfect was using a dial indicator with a mount.
Could you explain a bit more on the âdial indicator with the mountâ?
Sure thing. I saw this H2D Gauge Master - the perfect dial gauge holder by 2B.MainPrints MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models and downloaded it.
Order a dial indicator that looks similar to that, they have millions of brands wit the same shell just a different name. Hook it up and follow the instructions the models creator provided in the model description. I basically Was able to get all corners to the same number reading. This will allow you to ensure its consistent because when using a piece of paper or shim, you are relying on feel rather than a number presented to you.
Do we have any idea what causes this left/right nozzle difference? I am thinking itâs maybe indeed the nozzle lifting rail that is not super accurately moving back into position each time.
Watching the bed leveling procedure, I did notice that when printing with the left nozzle it does also do a bed level with the left nozzle. But just before starting printing, it switches briefly to the right nozzle. If the lift rail is not accurate, that switch may cause an inaccuracy?