Hello fellow printers. I hope this post finds you well.
I need some assistance please. I have recently received my p1p and had a blast setting it up and using the pla filament provided. However I have struggled with settings now using generic pla and not Bambulab pla.
Would appreciate any advice/input/settings that could assist me?
Thank you in advance,
Keaton
It would help if you told us what went wrong. I print a lot with the generic PLA profile and have not had any issues.
Hi Holmes
To be honest. I am kinda new to 3d printing so need some guidance on temperatures and general settings?
I am also not sure how to change speed of print?
Thank you 
Again, what problems are you having with the generic profile? I havenât felt a need to make any temperature adjustments.
As for change of speed, there is a coarse adjustment once you start printing - click/tap on the icon that looks like a speedometer and has 100% below it. Youâll have four choices: Silent, Standard, Sport and Ludicrous. These just multiply the speed by a fixed factor. You need to be sure that the filament youâre using can flow properly at the higher speeds.
Overall, speed is constrained by âMax volumetric speedâ in the filament profile. This tells the slicer how much flow the filament is capable of. The generic profile has a much lower value here than the Bambu profiles. With experimentation you can increase this value to make printing faster, but it is dependent on the filament you use. I have a profile with this set to 15mm/s that seems to be a good compromise (the Generic PLA profile has 12, Bambu PLA 21). If you print silk PLAs, youâll want to use the profile for that which is slower.
Please get some experience with the standard profiles before diving into the deep end.
Thanks for the input. Really appreciate it!
Initial challenges have been stringing and sticking to the bed. I have tried changing speed once print has started but will try that again.
As for profiles. I am trying to understand what the best height and width is to print at. I know this will take time to learn. Just trying to get some tips from seasoned printersđđź so would you recommend them creating new profiles with the slower print settings?
Tell us what prolem you would like to target ?
In general what I do is create a copy of Generic PLA and change few things :
M106 P3 S51 ; turn on chamber fan 20%
M900 K0.018 L1000 M10 ; Set linear advance yo 0.018
Note on PA /Linear advance: 0.018 is a good starting point for PA, if you dont know what to use, you can use this value, it is not too high, not too low; after each print depending on buldges on corner you can lower or increase this value. You will learn its effect with the time. I prefer to to set this value this ways than doing a specific whole calibration proccess, I find this more convenient.
Thatâs about all I change.
As an experiment, try printing with the âGeneric PLA Silkâ profile. This will print more slowly.
I am not sure what you mean by height and width. Layer height? Get some experience with the default .2 height (which is pretty much all I ever use). Stringing could be the particular filament - there is a PLA temperature tower on Printables Bambu studio - Temperature tower (PLA) by Matais | Download free STL model | Printables.com, but I have never used it. If you find a particular filament wants a lower temp (keep in mind that Bambu prints fast so somewhat higher temps are needed), you can create a profile with a lower nozzle temp.
Regarding @DzzD 's advice, this is more advanced and some of these settings (PA in particular) are not available in the stock Studio.
Thanks DzzD! I will have a look into the points mentionedđđź
Great! Will try the silk profile and see how I get on. Appreciate that!
For all kinds of filaments, I always run temperature towers and retraction towers for new filament. Iâm not yet a Bambulabs user but slicers for other printers usually have some built in. They will print in steps at predefined settings and allow you to easily see the best one for the filament. I have found even different colours of the same brand of PLA sometimes require slightly different settings to print nicely.
Did you use glue stick on your cool plate?
It looks like it failed in the beginning and stacked that failing.
Why didnât you stop your print after the first few layers?
It was meant to be a loading tray so have that tapered edge. However seems like the seam didnât joinâŚ
Did you enable support for the print? If the overhang is to high in angle it will fail.
I think it is a SEAM and retraction issue as I changed the seam position to BACK and this was the resultâŚ
Maybe try printing a different model and check if itâs a seam issue.
Could be a extruder clog? Extruder Clog | Bambu Lab Wiki
Or a completly wrong calibration if you did it with too much light (try to manually set linear/pressure advance and disable flow calibration)
This looks to me like the flow calibration / K value in slicer device tab is too high.
Try softfever fork of bambu studio, it has flow calibration and pressure advance calibration, i would run these tests and calibrate accordingly.
