Get Real about Bambu Labs

Hello All,

I have been a fan of Bambu Labs since the early days, that is until recently. I have more than 4,000 hours on my X1C, having bought one of the first to be sold. What precision, what joy, what a great functioning machine. The best at its price point. However, as a product manufacturer myself, having a great price, great functioning machine is only two thirds of what makes a product great. The remaining third is all about servicing. That is where Bambu Labs drove off a cliff, and crashed on the rocks below. I’ll explain…this machine was developed and manufactured in China, which has become 'the world’s factory. I have nothing but respect for its people, their hard work and the ambition that is the driving force propelling their great accomplishments. But Bambu Labs has some serious flaw, flaws I have brought to their attention, flaws that they have turned a deaf ear to, which is an adult phrasing that means they won’t listen. Assuming that the western market is a good chunk of their global market, they have made two serious mistakes. First, the design flaw I will get to momentarily. Second, one this flaw was brought to their attention, they did not correct. 4,000 hours is a lot for any machine; its expected that parts will wear out, break, or both. As users, we are told to consult the Wiki; a great place with video instruction, clarifying information, you name it. But their are fundamental differences between East and West, that cause problems; in short, Americans generally have larger hands than Asians. This isn’t ignorance talking. I discussed this with my Chinese-American friends, and the consensus is, that if you are gonna work on these machines, you need slender fingers, I’m not overweight, not a bit, but working 1.5 mm screws in spaces in which you have to turn the machine sideways and hang upside down to remove/install some of the important parts. Its also extremely hard lining up screw holes for installation/assembly and there is no room at all to eyeball it. The plug behind the TH9 motherboard, for instance. The Wiki is good info, but toss the instructions. The best way to replace the TH9 boards, with/without a new micro lidar is to remove the front and back of the toolhead and carefully insert the lidar plugs into the TH9 mother board, THEN put the boards into place and screw both boards down, Next, insert the remaining plugs into the respective sockets. Oh, yea, screwing the boards onto the tool head is not overly difficult. But working 1.5 mm screws into the toolhead’s receiving holes??? That is no 10 minute job. I spent hours trying to line up holes, and used a lot of words not suitable around children. Here’s how I did it: assemble side and rear toolhead covers, placing them into position on the toolhead. Next, unless you have three hands (forget it, there’s no room for a third hand in the square space, with the glass top off.), use zip ties to hold the rear and side parts of the toolhead cover together, in place. Next, while you can see the holes in the toolhead cover, you cannot see the underlying holes that the screw anchor into. I have a gooseneck inspection device with a lit optic cable feeding an image onto a monitor.

Now, going on would just be ranting. Bambu expects its user to do all maintenance and repairs, and be competent service technicians. HA! I say Bambu needs to construct this machine so you can 1. See what you are doing, and 2. Have parts larger than 1.5mm. I took physics and quantum mechanics in school, not shop class. ARE YOU LISTENING, BAMBU LABS???

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Interesting rant. Word of advice, don’t ever try a cellphone repair.

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I don’t really see anything that screams “Bambu needs to change this”. Bring it to an electronics repair shop if you don’t want to deal with tiny screws and plugs.

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… One of the reasons I picked up an A1 as a rank beginner. Open design will not discourage me from working on it myself, should the need arise. Bambu should follow the lead of my old Mac G4 tower on their enclosed models. One latch undone and the whole side flops down. Hmmm…

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Worship of any capitalist enterprise is loyalty misplaced. That said, I’ve used FDM printers for years. Ten years ago I’d spend 3x the time tinkering as printing. The X1C was the first printer I’ve owned that worked (mostly) like an appliance. I sometimes get sad that I don’t need to tinker… and go in search of things to modify or improve :slight_smile: The point I’m making - fan worship isn’t warranted by any manufacturer of anything… it is all just stuff. But, Bambulab pulled off quite a feat with their stuff – even if some things are fiddly to repair.

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What…did I just read?
FIngers? Is that right?

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Average finger sizes across the globe.

I find it really difficult to read something that doesn’t break things up into paragraphs and reasonable sentence length, ideally a few bullet points.

My poor eyesight simply can’t cope.

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Simple solution:
Buy your self a bigger printer like from Stratasys - there all the parts are bigger aswell.
But please don’t complain the higher pricing with a factor of about 100.

Just to give you some ideas:
Print nozzle: $70
Build-plate (only one time use): $7
New extruder in exchange for old one: $9000

More questions?

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I have large hands with fat fingers. Over the years I have learned how to compensate. It takes a different mindset and sometimes I have had to make my own tools to complete the job at hand.

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I just went through the same process on my machine having to replace the TH board and micro lidar. This is not easy, but with some patience it was doable. You need some experience working on micro parts. Agreed that they could have made it more user serviceable seeing how they want you to do all the work.

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I’ve done all repairs on my P1S so far. I feel thru wiki and YouTube I could do anything normal. Repairing this unit requires patience and mechanical skills.
Point is that not everyone has one or both, making it frustrating to get it running without waiting for a part to ship. I think it would help if there was a place you could take it for repair.
Problem is this could be said for anything repairable and there aren’t many businesses doing that work.

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I’ve thought about this a lot. I feel like the market for 3D printer repair is wide open right now. Even if you didn’t have a storefront and made “house calls”. The more broadly adopted this hobby gets the more people that will get in to it who just want to create and might not have a background in anything close to getting inside electronics.

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I doubt it has a lot to do with finger clearance. Packaging is a big part of the design process. And if you want to fit the most functionality in the smallest volume of space, clearances generally have to be pretty tight. Not “can fingers fit there?” but more “can a tool fit there?”.

I have a big assortment of tweezers in different lengths and tip angles for component removal and reinsertion in areas my fingers can’t fit in to (I’m 6’4" so my hands are larger than most), as well as some incredibly long needle-nose pliers for the more stubborn fasteners, and all my hex drivers and screwdrivers have magnetized tips to hold parts for insertion.

Just about every electronic device made nowadays is designed to be as tightly packaged as possible. This is not an issue specific to BBL or China.

Suggesting BBL redesign their machines so fatter fingers can fit is, IMO, a highly unrealistic suggestion. Fingers don’t matter if you have the right tools.

I have a trick for aligning holes… a tapered rod (think “Awl”). Pick any hole and insert the tip of the rod to align those holes without having to drive a screw to do it. Then, align any other hole set, which will be easier because the hole with the rod going through it constrains the position to an arc that transects that hole, and drive that screw. Snug it down, remove the rod, drive that screw until snug. Insert and tighten any remaining screws. Go back and tighten the first two.

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One thing about these is a design goal would obviously be to keep extruders and gantries light for maximum acceleration using the smallest (cheapest) motors. Making the extruder small helps keep the printer a little bit smaller while still having a large print volume. Likely another design goal.

This reminds me of the discussions around ratings of models where people print something then dock it on the rating because it printed exactly as was promised. Granted it’s a mail order item and few have stores nearby to see one in person, but there are lots of videos and photos in the wiki that have hands and tools in them to help judge size.

And this is what people want/demand/expect. Especially in a more consumer focused device.

In general, 4k hours is a pretty good run without major issues, I feel. I can’t recall any 3d printer from my past that gave me as many hours without some major head scratching issue. That doesn’t take away from the pain of having to deal with fixing fiddly little things though, sure.

I think OP just needed some room to rant. When I first had my P1S, I got a clog and accidently cut the ribbon cable for the filament sensor when trying to get the clog out. It frustrated me, and annoyed me, and if it wasn’t my secondary printer I’d probably have had been even more mad, but I was practicing patience that month and doing good at it.

It was such a dumb little mistake though that felt more prone to happening because of how tightly packaged everything is around the print head. If you’re not careful, you can jam up a lot of things; despite the fact that it is still easy to work on.

I’m like RocketSled with an assortment of tools for working on fiddly things. The frustrating part is it can get less fiddly, but you’ve gotta put the time into fixing lots of fiddly stuff first to get a good feel for it. Haha. No pain, no gain, I guess.

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And, don’t try to replace the battery in a Samsung watch!

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Been there, done that. I confirm :sweat_smile:

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I have an almost brand new P1S (August) and after updating the firmware, the machine can no longer start a print from the laptop nor finish a print started directly from the SD card. I have been dealing with “customer service”, at which 3 responses over the course of 2+ weeks, im still being told it’s a belt tension issue. Machine has become a paper weight and their “customer service” is poor at best.

Have you tried rolling the firmware back to the previous version?