Glue Residue from Bambu Liquid Glue

All my prints are done with ASA on the High Temp plate. I always use the Bambu Liquid Glue because my prints come loose way too often. However this leaves a burnt in white residue on the prints that I have been unable to remove. Has any found a way to remove this? I’ve tried alcohol and other chemicals but have been unsuccessful. I have resorted to sanding it off at the moment but this is unpractical.

I have tried using all the other plates without glue, but I get way too many failed prints. I only get 100% success with the liquid glue and high temp plate.

A couple of people mentioned that they use a blow torch to get rid of those marks that don’t wash off. They say it is due to stress on the plastic

@duane777 mentions it here:

He gives more instructions on a follow up post.

@maximit also mentioned using a torch and gives since more instructions on a follow up post

Thanks, for the links. Those are great posts

The white residue is not burnt in…
It is a mix of pressure on the plate, flow rate and temperatures.
The glue can be made at home and is fully removable with just warm water and a sponge - a bit of dishwashing liquid seeps things up.
Considering how long a glue stick last not worth to DIY.

I kept having your issue for a long while and like you always with those high temp prints.
In my case mainly Nylon and PETG though.
ASA has the ability to really strongly bond to a lot of things, especially this glue…
Try my method and if any good report back - do the same if it does not help :wink:

Properly clean the plate with a sponge and warm soapy water.
Do NOT use the rough green side of a kitchen sponge…
Dry with a paper towel, put some gloves on unless you have really dray hands.
Cut a tiny sponge or use one of these cheap sponge brushes from the hardware store.
Coat about a 10 to 12cm circle in the centre of the plate.
Make sure it is evenly coated.
Now wet the sponge and rub it over the entire plate a few times.
Wet, not soaked…
You will see the glue dissolving and spreading - looks a bit whitish…
You want to have the entire plate wet - wet as in wet when soldering, meaning a very THIN layer of glue and water that won’t run off.

I keep two clear, plastic cups.
One to wet and wash out the sponge, the other to let the water evaporate.
Ideally the later evaporates faster than what I have to re-apply glue.
Otherwise I use another cup.
The glue is water based…
Once there a good amount of residue in the dry cup I add a bit of warm water, scrape and stir and then use it to top up my glue stick…

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Thanks for the tip. I will try it out and let you know.

@user_3026326371 Are you diluting and spreading a 10-12 cm circle of liquid glue or a glue stick?

@georgewagner23 Is the plate temperature as specified in the “Build Plate Settings” paragraph in the WiKi article on filament types?

The liquid, greenish stuff…

Yes, plate temp are within the ranges specified.

So, I’ve been testing a bunch of different prints using this method. I’ve tried using both alcohol and water. I’ve only had one failed print and that was using the water. What I’ve found is using alcohol I get better adhesion than I do with water. Not sure why, seeing how the glue is water soluble. I am still getting the white marks on the side that adheres to the bed, but the heat gun method makes quick work of that.

So, here’s what I’ve been doing. I rub about a 10-12cm circle of the liquid glue in the middle of the plate and then a couple of sprays of about 70% alcohol then spread that out with a damp sponge(sprayed with alcohol). Just enough to dampen the whole plate. If I spray too much I just wave the plate a bit to shake off the excess. There should be a nice even film across the whole plate. My printers are in my basement which is about 18-19 Celsius, I set my nozzle temps to 275C Initial Layer, 270C other layers. My plate temp is set to 110C. I have used this for both the Engineering Plate and High temp plates and these are the best prints I have ever been able to do. I have printed things perfectly that normally would warp, lift and fail. I’ve found the High Temp plate seems to have better adhesion, but the Engineering plate will usually self release on cooling, so I’ve been using this one more. I have not had one failed print since using this method.

Just want to confirm you didn’t mistype, you said you used a heat gun, not a torch, correct?

If a heat gun works well, I think I would prefer that over a torch.

Yes, you can use a heat gun instead of a torch. It takes a little practice, I did apply a little too much heat, a bit too long and started to melt but a little trial and error I’ve now got it nailed. It works perfectly. I’m now getting the best ASA prints I’ve ever gotten.

In one of the links you posted someone mentioned about using a heat gun. I have one so I gave it shot.

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