So I guess maybe I put too much glue on my Cool Plate (this whole issue happened right after I added some more glue because I saw some spots where the glue had been pulled up).
I printed something with supports and it was difficult to remove. Removing the part ended up leaving all the supports/support rafts behind. It was crazy hard to those off and I ended up, accidentally, gouging out the surface of the Cool Plate through the sticker. Should I just go ahead and get an entirely new plate or try to just throw a fresh sticker on the top of this one?
Applying a new sticker over the gouge will leave a depression in the gouged area that will show on your prints. Remove the old sticker completely before applying a new one.
Next time you think you applied too much glue (unlikely), just soak the plate in a sink of warm water - the glue will dissolve, releasing the print.
The Gouge is in the metal plate underneath the sticker. That photo is with the sticker removed. I was concerned about the depression thing. Sounds like I need a new plate.
Throw those metal scraper blades that Bambu gave you away, or you’ll be ruining all your plates. Print one of the multitude of scrapers available in one of the plastics–Like PLA. You don’t say what material you were printing but the PEI plates work like magic–When hot, they stick when cool parts practically jump off the plate. No need for glue.
I actually have one of those printed scrapers and I’ve never used a metal one… until now… If I’m honest… I actually used a razor blade… Guess I learned my lesson! As per the above comment, in these super difficult cases I guess some warm water will be a better solution!
I have the Texture PEI Plate, and I use it for most prints. But it can’t handle “difficult” prints in my experience. That is, large prints that take a large portion of the build plate and have thick bases that put a lot of pull-up strain on the bottom layers.
So while the Textured covers me for 90% of cases, if I’m doing something big and/or with filament I can’t afford to lose (such as a print that takes up most of a specialty roll that I don’t wanna buy a 2nd roll of just to get the last 50g) I go for the Cool Plate + Glue.
I printed the AMS stand shown below without any problems. It’s used to raise the AMS up when attaching the COB LEDs to the bottom of the AMS. I have one sitting on the printer and three on shelves. This was an easy way to add more light inside the printer.
The trick is to set the bed temp to 60-65c and keep it there, not just on the first layer.
It definitely has more grip. If you’re ok with the pattern on the bottom, I’d go that way. And keep the bed temp up.
This is the pattern on silver filament. It has sort of a sandblasted look. On dark colors, the pattern leaves an almost glitter look. I tried to find a picture of a toolbox I printed in black but can’t find it now. I showed it as a Make in Printables.
I don’t agree with this at all. I find the Bambu scraper blade works wonderfully when used with this holder and it’s near impossible to damage the bed with it.
@JonRaymond Yes, but that’s not the scraper Bambu tells you to print.
I haven’t seen that one before. Still, I’m not going to chance gouging a ~$40 plate with a metal blade of any type. But hey, that’s just me. I’m on a retirement income.
Besides, no scraper is needed on a PEI plate except for maybe the calibration lines. A plastic scraper works for that too.
Thanks. I was using an actual razor blade and it was in a holder that forced me to have a steeper attack angle than I wanted.
I have a metal “3d printer” spatula on order from Amazon that I suspect will be a good middle-ground between “razor made at a bad angle” and “printed spatula that deforms before it can get the part off”
My black plate is textured and has that same pattern. It is not the black “Smooth plate”. It looks like maybe a previous version of the Gold Plate. (Not sure, I bought it all 2nd hand).
Like this one. This is wall mounted and that base is solid. Puts a ton of pressure on the 1st layer.
