My prints seem to come out well, except when I have a flat surface at the top of a model. Here is an example:
I see this problem with my X1C and also the H2C. What slicer settings do I need to change to minimize this?
I’ve tried ironing in the past but that didn’t seem to help. I’ve attached the 3mf file also so you can see my print settings.
Try different top surface patterns. You’ll get the most even result from the one with the least travel. Those obstacles in the skating rink make the zamboni have to take uneven routes 
Turn off: Other → “Reduce Infill Retraction”.
Kudos to you for posting a 3MF without needing to be asked. This takes a lot of the guesswork out.
Based on your use of an X1, I’m going to guess that your using the factory presets or relying on autocalibration. I see signs that this is not working(see photo). However, having said that I used your 3MF file and there is something not right about the model. How was this model generated? I ask because the slicer isn’t treating the top layer as a top layer. I see that you have top layers set to five but it is only laying down one layer. What that means is that even though your 3MF says 5 top layers, the slicer is ignoring it. But I can’t diagnose the underlying cause which is why I ask how the model was generated.
In addition to what Olias has already summarised perfectly: I noticed that you have PLA Silk+ selected in the settings. Is that correct? It doesn’t look like PLA Silk+ in the photo, so it’s better to ask.
Beside: So if you really have PLA Silk+ loaded, then your speeds are also a little too fast for optimal quality. Going over 100 mm/s isn’t recommended by Bambu. So either way, something is wrong depending on whether you have Silk loaded or not. 
I had a look in Bambu Studio v2.4.0.70 and I’m seeing 5 top layers:
(out of curiosity, how did you create/save your animated image? I had a really hard time generating the above animation)
The model was created in Cad software, exported as Step, and imported into Bambu Studio.
I would try to save it then as a lower version of STEP file if your CAD supports this - Fusion360 I believe does not but OnShape and FreeCAD do. Or you could save it as an STL. The thing you’re trying to eliminate is that the model isn’t working against you. I’ve seen screwy things go on with file format issues.
I use this for animated GIFs.
I used the Bambu PLA Silk+ setting. The filament is not from Bambu but rather from Jayo: 3D Printer Silk Filament, JAYO 1.1KG Silk PLA Filament 1.75mm, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02mm, Smooth Silky Shiny Surface, Cardboard 3D Printing Spool, Fit for FDM 3D Printers, Silk Silver 1.1KG : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
The PLA Silk+ setting might be a red herring. As I see the same issue with other filament types and presets as well. It isn’t only happening with this filament.
I see the exact same issue even when I use bambu filament (Matte, Gloss, or Silk).
Then your speeds are definitely too high. That may not be the main problem, but it will definitely reduce the quality of your printouts for sure. Unfortunately, the standard Bambu PLA Silk+ settings are designed for speed not quality. If you use this profile, you will encounter significant problems with Silk. Unfortunately, Bambu has made a rather silly mistake here. Even on its own wiki page, Bambu says that you shouldn’t use these settings.
Outer walll is set to 200 mm/s in your case, for example, and Bambu recommended set to 40 mm/s to 60 mm/s. You also need to increase the temperature of your nozzle (200 - 230°C), but I haven’t checked that. If the temperature is set too low, you will also encounter problems with the surfaces.
So, I took another close look at the settings: If you buy filament from Jayo, you have to use their parameters and not Bambu’s. That’s where the problem lies. If you did that for every filament, I can see where the problem is. Your values are worlds apart from what Jayo recommends. You need to create an separate filament profile. 
This applies to PLA, of course, so for every filament, you have to use Jako’s settings, at least to start with, and then you can always optimize them later.
Even their normal PLA is only suitable for slow printing. Not 200 mm/s…
That’s probably due to the cheap price, which means you have to make compromises. That’s not a bad thing, but you have to adjust it in the slicer.
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Edit: To give you the full picture, imagine buying a printer (X1) that can print at speeds of up to 500 mm/s, but using filament that can only print at speeds of up to 80 mm/s. I’m not criticising, I just want to show you the extent of the discrepancy. In terms of speed and quality, your printer is running with the handbrake on. Bambu PLA can reach speeds of up to 300 mm/s, for example.
Youre filament simply cannot keep up with the melting process. As I said, it’s not just about speed, but also about gaps and defects occurring because your filament isn’t melting properly.
I hear what you are saying, however I have the exact same problem when using bambu filament too.
I didn’t overlook that, but I’m not sure if you understand what I’m trying to say.
You have too many variables at the moment - it would be better to proceed step by step. There were also lots of suggestions from Olias that you should implement, too.
Now I have to ask a silly question: Have you solved this problem yet? There was no further response from you - or is it still an issue? I don’t want to bother you, but since that was youre problem recently, it could be relevant.
By the way, the people in the thread gave you the same advice about what’s wrong with your settings.
I’ll play with the filament settings to see if I can improve the surface quality.
As for the Induction oozing issue … contacted support and they suggested it must be filament splatter coming from either the purge tower or the model while printing. I’ve been cleaning the nozzles with a sponge and that seems to help prevent further build up.
Hi, I had the same issue on the surface, but not so pronounced.
I found this video helpful and am trying it out today to see if it makes a difference. I had the internal solid fill pattern to rectilinear which was the default and I saw when it printed the individual layers that it would print part of it, then move to a different area, then come back and print the rest, and it did that in the same spot a few times every other layer. By changing the internal solid fill pattern on my model to monotonic line (maybe different for your model) I found that the layers filled in much better without jumping around, and then moved to the next layer. Not sure if this will work for you, but I hope it helps both of us!
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