Interesting. I got my h2c for Christmas 2025. My left nozzle ams ht has had some problems, but the printer has worked perfectly.
Upgraded today to V01.01.02.00 after 251 hours of flawless printing, and first layer issues abound. Same files, whether the saved sliced or a new one, result in a first layer mess. Downgraded firmware and works like a charm again.
Just the opposite. Although all I’ve printed so far is PETG. But they do not like to come off. One, I had to resort to the freezer trick. All I ever used on my X1C was the smooth Engineering plate. I’m probably going to buy the smooth PEI for the H2C.
Yeah, my textured PEI won’t let go of my thin first layer petg fails until I break out the ole palette knife, so @Designs_by_Spencer , you might have a defective plate.
try drying the filament first. hope that helps 
These print beds need to break in a bit. After washing a couple times and multiple heating/printing cycles on the bed, you will start to get better adhesion. Mine is almost “too good” now in some cases and I might not even use the CrypGrip I have coming on preorder.
Also for adhesion comes down to these things: increasing first layer filament temp (usually the max in the range for it), increase bed temp (up to max range), no first layer part cooling, turn off/down aux fans, slow down first layer print speed and/or increase first layer height a smidge. I have been printing nothing but flawless prints on this machine with great adhesion and I never used a glue stick and never will. I did have some adhesion issues early on but after the “break in” period it is now excellent on the default print bed it comes with.
It is also good to build filament calibration profiles as well for each filament brand/type if you want the max you can get out of printing quality. This is what I do and the order:
- Max volumetric test (within calibration developer menu)
- Flow rate (extrusion multiplier - within Calibration tab)
- Temp tower (within calibration developer menu)
- Pressure advance (flow dynamics within Calibration tab - I every nozzle but not totally nec.)
- Retraction test (within calibration developer menu, fix stringing/oozing but also could reveal a temp adjustment too)
- VFA (within calibration developer menu) - this will mainly help find your max speeds the printer can do while still maintaining top quality
Spray a little IPA on base of the print. That usually gets them to let go.
I got my printer just before Christmas. I had a problem in that the Vortex nozzle #4 couldn’t load into the printer. Eventually they sent me a new “dock” and it was an easy install. Now all works. I have other Bambu printers, but this thing is really at another level. It prints like I have never seen before. I have the cutter module, that worked UNTIL I installed the birds-eye camera, now waiting for firmware to fix that.
Wait, so you installed the birds eye camera and now you cannot cut at all? That is kind of lame. I got the cutting module as well and it did a couple cuts okay but it really needs the camera to make the cuts more accurate.
About 200 hours in an H2C. Bambu Filament, ABS, PETG, PETG-CF, PLA Basic, PLA Matte stick with zero problems on Textured and Engineering plates. Almost too much adhesion. I am using 3DLAC on every print on both plates. All filament dried 8 hours. CR-PLA I use on a CRS-10 had big problems on the H2C. Fine, use Bambu on Bambu. A coupe of bucks is not worth a bad print. The prints have been pretty much flawless at all levels of quality on .2,.4.and .6 heads. There have been a couple of generic issues, fat CR-PLA filament jamming in the extruder, print head losing its spatial awareness mind once, (power cycle fixed it). The unit just prints I have not tried TPU yet. . I am pretty happy for what I received in a reasonably priced machine. Bad one do happen from every vendor, bite bullet, pay shipping and negotiate a replacement if you got a lemon.
No, can’t cut at all, because it won’t NOT let you calibrate the camera, which you can’t do. I could disconnect the camera, but I chose not to for now. There is a firmware bug where you can only calibrate the birds eye camera with a laser module installed.
3DLAC is the best, and I have tried many.
But why?
I understand it on the EP, because you HAVE to work with adhesive there. But not on the PEI?
I haven’t used adhesive for PLA and PETG in the last 15 years – let alone needed it. With TPU, I use it as a release agent, not for adhesion. I only use it with ABS when I know that the corners of a model are at risk of warping.
Habit, and I have seen no downside, I printed on a CRS-10 Smart Pro with PEI plate for a long time and getting thing to stick consistently across materials was difficult. This was especially true with small parts or long print parts.It could be I just suck at tweaking the parameters and bed leveling. 3DLAC solved the problem. It is cheap, quick, and prints both stick and release. The H2C is in a different universe for usability compared to a CRS-10 Smart Pro, but old habits that have worked well die hard. Oddly enough, I am not the one posting here with adhesion problems on my new H2C, coincidence? Hmmmmm
Well, following the logic…
I haven’t had any problems with my H2C and have never used an adhesive with it.
What does that tell us? 
Do what you like, I just wanted to ask why…
Also have never had adhesion problems on my X1c, H2s, H2c too printing PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU with no adhesive on PEI plate.
Possibly I have found a support group for kicking my CRS-10 induced adhesive habit. Hi, I am B and I am an adhesive addict. This is my 2nd day without adhesive. Hi B……
It could be a whole new world. I appreciate your thoughts and experience.
Technically you are saying it’s almost too good. I think thats what the others are hinting at. I have never used an adhesive on any prints even ABS with the PEI plates. Brims have worked great there. Sounds like you’re rethinking things and starting a support group, I like it!
OK, I hate you all. H2C: 6 prints on an engineering plate with PLA-Basic and PETG-CF with no 3DLac and they stuck just fine. 1 round Karcher Vacuum Adapter with a the round part down and 4 brims stuck just fine with no adhesive. I am old, I do not WANT to learn new stuff. Stop destroying a good narrative with facts.
I printed the Starry Night vase that won the Vortek competition and it went great, 4500 filament changes. Also designed this to test the Vortek, printed great:
Bonjour, après plus de 300 heures d’utilisation sur H2C, je rencontre un problème d’extrudeuse sur la droite et la gauche avec de l’ASA Bambu Lab séché comme recommandé et stocké en dessous de 10% d’humidité ! Avec le PLA jamais eu le moindre problème? Une idée? Un conseil? Merci