Hello, can someone help tame this printer? Since I bought it, very few prints are suitable for sale due to the low print quality.
Bambu lab support has been responding only with ready-made formulas for a week now
The layer lines will always be visible but they are terribly uneven on me. You can feel the unevenness under your finger
The nozzle keeps scratching the prints, breaking small supports
I already had a1 and x1c and everything worked fine there
I have already done all the steps from bambu wiki.
With such an expensive printer such things shouldn’t happen but bambu lab seems to ignore my topic. They tell me that everything is OK… but I see a big difference between old printers
I have already bought it Vision Encoder, High Flow nozzle… but nothing helped
I have the beta software updated, I have the nozzle tightened, I have tightened the belts. I have looked everywhere for loose screws, I have done everything I could from the bambu wiki
I’ve been following all your replies in different threads and I’ve tried different slicer settings, different tips but nothing helps so far so after weeks of reading I decided to write my own post because bambu practically doesn’t answer my questions
Best fix ive found for fixing the layer lines is printing everything in cf or gf filaments. I know you dont want to hear this. Normal stuff will work for some prints but not most. Hopefully it gets better with time, but its been out for a good while already and had a few updates. If you exchange it, youll probably get a slightly better one, but not always perfect like an x1c, p1s, p1p or a1. You can tune all day long and maybe get it better, but its not perfect out of the box.
Even the photo posts of “perfect” prints are usually riddled with problems unless cf or gf
With TPU, even bambus picture of the shoes is covered in layer lines along with some of the other pictures theyve posted of even pla.
The updates usually say “improves surface quality” but not “solved layer line issue” or something like that. They do seem to be working on it, but cant solve it yet for most prints.
Matte filament also helps. You wont see many posts of large silk prints, for sure
I know you’ve tried everything but have you tried this? Also, I would redo the X/Y belt tensionning for good measure.
Edit: Also, at least for the gauge master I could find on makerworld, I would have increased the wall loops to 4 and use gyroid instead of cross hatch for the infill. I think even on my P1S I would get the same results with the banding at geometry and color changes with 2 wall loops. I noticed that I had some prints that were better on P1S than on H2D when most of my designs are printed on 0.2mm strength profile on my P1S and 0.2mm balanced strength profile on my H2D. The difference is the wall loops, 4 in the former, 2 in the latter. I don’t know why bambu came up with this balanced strength profile, certainly just to hide the increase in print time. My models printed the same and often better on my H2D with 4 loops for walls.
