I have some feedback on the H2D after using it for a few days. Please take a moment and provide me with some corrective info if I am missing something.
First of all, I am genuinely enjoying this machine so far. It mimics some of my favorite features from my 5 Tool Prusa XL, except with the “Bambu polish” smeared all over the experience. I am happy with it.
Now to the feedback:
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I like to warm up my chamber a bit when printing PETG. Just to around 30-35 degrees. I do this on my X1C and on my Prusa XL. It has never caused me trouble, and only helped me by preventing/reducing warping on large rectangular prints. The H2D completely blocks me from doing this. It tells me that warming up the chamber is not allowed with PETG. NEWS FLASH - it’s MY printer… it 100% IS allowed. This needs to be fixed. OR I humbly request someone educate me on what I am doing wrong when attempting to enable this setting.
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I had a strange issue when using Bambu Handy with the H2D. I went to print a model, and it would not let me select the AMS (on the right nozzle). Wasn’t even an option. It only gave me the option to select the external spool (on the left nozzle). I feel like I am missing a detail here. Or maybe a bug?
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When slicing in Bambu Studio, the left and right side of the build plate are grayed out, indicating that they are only available for use with the left and right nozzles. Fair enough. My feedback, is that once a model is loaded, and a filament selected, the applicable grayed out portion of the build plate become “un-grayed” out. Highlighting the ACTUAL available print area, based on the options selected. This is not a huge issue, but would be a nice quality of life improvement.
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Lastly, material swaps. I would like to see less of a delay from when a material (nozzle) swap starts (the point in which the tool head parks), and the time in which the nozzle is retracted/extended. This gives time for oozing (even with dry filament I have noticed), which inevitably impacts print quality. An easy mitigation to this would be an additional nozzle wipe on the dedicated wiper area, just before the nozzle is retracted/extended. Ideally a quick wipe before AND after nozzle retraction/extension. This wouldn’t add but more than 3-4 seconds, but would massively help with ooze.
That’s all I got for now. I am really running this machine through its paces. Especially with large prints, mixed material interlocking, and soon, some high temp materials. It’s a great, polished piece of hardware. Bambu did good.
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On the Creality K2 plus they also stop this from happening unless you set temperature to 41 degrees. So before sending anything to the printer can you manually set the chamber to 41 degrees then switch off heating at the desired temp. Not ideal but worth considering
It works on K2 plus.
Enable chamber heating on the PETG profile in Bambu slicer or create a new filament profile with chamber heating enabled.
Read the wiki for your printer and the AMS. It goes into detail on what exactly is and is not possible currently.
Certain filaments PPS-CF, PPA-CF, and two others are only allowed on the left nozzle.
Not sure you need to be heating the chamber much if at all with PETG unless you live in a freezer.
It might be YOUR printer but it’s under warranty and despite some saying the customers always right… I’m firmly convinced they are not…
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If I am understanding correctly, you’re saying to manually set the chamber temp, prior to starting the print. But won’t the chamber temp go down once the automatic cooling kicks in?
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“Enable chamber heating on the PETG profile in Bambu slicer or create a new filament profile with chamber heating enabled.”.
I did both of these. The printer still overrode both attempts by enabling exhaust, and disabling chamber heater.
Good to know on the AMS, and PPS/PPA. This circumstance, was with PETG and PLA, on right and left respectively. I was only trying to select 1 out of 5 options available. It was a single color print. However it only permitted me to select a single option, with the other 4 not even present. It was strange.
PETG, like most other filaments likes to warp if cooled too quickly when used on large, rectangular prints. A warm chamber helps prevent this. Ask me how I know XD
Good call on the warranty statement. However I do fail to see how a clogged hotend could compromise the warranty. I’m sure there is some one-off scenario out there I am not thinking of. At the end of the day, I feel that a warning would be good enough. Outright prohibiting me from taking an action on my machine, I consider a bug that needs fixing.
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Change the filament type to one that allows chamber heating and then replace all the temperature settings for the profile to PETG temperatures. When loading the filament on the printer just tell it it’s a generic filament either ABS or PA so it maintains a higher temp when loading and unloading.
This practice is no different than making a custom profile for a filament that’s not on the available filaments. Like PCTPE or PCTT I’ve used before.
Unfortunately once you send the gcode it will overwrite any manual settings. When I challenged Creality with this they acknowledged this. In their view (and obviously BambuLabs) having a chamber temperature of 35 is not needed.
I have printed over 600 hours of Creality / Elegoo Hyper Petg, Bambu HF and Bambu Petg
and never use the chamber heating. I Always uses the manufacturers filament settings (0.6 nozzle). No problems with the results.
But like most who bought 3d printers with chamber heating it is disappointing to realise you cannot use it as desired.
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My guess is that if you set chamber temperature at anything less than 40 it will not activate.
A lot of Creality filaments in the K2 are ticked to use the chamber heater at 35 degrees but it does not do anything. It will only bring the temperature down if it exceeds 40 degrees.
It would be nice if the H2D did work as expected by the consumer.
Great point, I’ll do some testing today and see what’s possible. I’d like to know what the lowest camber temp can be set and maintained.
One more suggestion, which should be super easy to do…
Allow the door to be flipped so it opens the other direction. Seems it is all symmetrical, and rotating the entire door 180º would not look any different (except for being mirrored).
Only extra step would be having the alternate hinge mounting point pre-drilled/tapped.
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Would also have to move the door sensor, change the gasket alignment, and move magnets.
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This is generally a bad idea. PETG has a reasonably low softening temp and if you start off with elevated chamber temps, there’s a fear that you could experience a nozzle clog from heat creep. Granted, its not super likely (softening temp is 70C), its close enough to where most well thought out safeguards will stop you. Considering PETG is a super sticky filament and warping is not commonly a problem, I would just suggest to keep the door closed while printing to avoid drafts. I honestly can’t remember the last time I had a PETG print warp. Not that its impossible, because I know it can happen, just not super common. Personally, I don’t see them changing this.
The nozzle/filament choice programming is extremely complex. I’d say run the filament sync and try again. If you have synced it on that slice, not sure what else could be going on without more info. Don’t try to re-use past syncs (even if you know they were right), if it asks just do it. I have found that it seemingly sometimes grabs info from out of thin air if you don’t. I’m sure there is logic to it, I just haven’t found it yet.
I’m dealing with number four right now actually.
I’m printing with PLA and PVA on swap the PVA it’s having issues.
It’s one of the things I was looking forward to most with a dual head was using proper support filament for things.
One workaround I did find is disabling chamber cooling once the print has started. I have gotten about 40 degrees chamber temp by doing this. actually kind of perfect for what I am doing. Zero warping now.
Bad idea for some… but not for me. I print large, rectangular objects multiple times per week. it runs edge to edge of the build volume. any amount of chamber cooling is causing my edges to warp upwards. However when I tricked the chamber to stay at around 40 degrees, I had zero warping. I have repeated the cool chamber failure 2 times, and the warm chamber success 3 times now on the H2D. I also tested and verified this exact fail/success behavior on my Prusa XL as well. (enclosure open vs closed in that case).
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You ever find a resolution for #2? I seem to be having the same issues with the right nozzle
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Pre-sliced models do not let you choose the nozzle.
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Isnt that a bit odd? It shouldn’t matter if I print a model on another nozzle or with other filament as long as the settings are set correctly. Where does this limitation lay? In the bambuhandy software?
Just me, but I found my prints were not as good when printing with PETG HF and a warm chamber, I like the bed to be evenly heated, and often open the door to allow the build chamber to cool off.
Inevitably people who push the boundaries don’t need artificial boundaries unnecessarily exposed. I, for one, might like to use the heated changer to make yogurt while printing or something.
Agree you should be allowed to make mistakes if Bambu thinks it’s unnecessary, they should just send a popup warning that says not recommended for xyz filament or something. After all some people like a walled garden, but one should be allow to venture out if it’s not affecting anyone else.
OK, thanks for that, I have a better understanding.